block guard
09-13-2006, 02:43 PM
#3
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Re: block guard (Dialectic)
Works for me as well, the only problem it can cause is over heating. And that's because of a poorly designed block guard, make sure you have as many holes in the block guard as your head gasket, if not more......... 
Though it's not needed, but that's for you to decide. Again, it's all in the tuning.
Though it's not needed, but that's for you to decide. Again, it's all in the tuning.
09-13-2006, 03:52 PM
#6
Re: block guard (Mugencrxsir1)
To properly have a blockguard installed, you need to have a deckplate on the block simulating that the head is on the block and it needs to be heated up (deckplate and block I think? I cant remeber I talked with Larry @ Endyn a while back about this) to operating tempature. Then the cyls. need to be checked to make sure that they dont need to be honed.
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09-13-2006, 08:14 PM
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Re: (Garage 808 Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garage 808 Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it keeps the cylinders from distorting and shifting, causing blown head gaskets</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that before or after they cause hot spots on the sleeves around where combustion occurs? Also is that before or after the sleeves see increased stress due to the aluminum preventing the sleeves from expanding? I'd say the pros do not weigh out the cons except maybe on a race only application.
Is that before or after they cause hot spots on the sleeves around where combustion occurs? Also is that before or after the sleeves see increased stress due to the aluminum preventing the sleeves from expanding? I'd say the pros do not weigh out the cons except maybe on a race only application.
09-14-2006, 03:58 PM
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Works well for me... I have a Arizona Race and Machine block guard in my car ( built b16a turbo ) and I have 5000+ miles on my car daily driven on pump gas making 340whp .... I installed mines myself and it was a pain in the ***... I used a 15 ton press and slowly slowly worked it into the block about an 1/8 from the deck and then took it to a machine shop and had the block bored to 81.5 mm and its been fine.... It just keeps the cylinder wall from dancing to much and moving the head gasket under pressure and high RPM's... Its NOT gonna keep your motor from blowing I can tell you that though... Its just a lil more support at the top of the sleeve...
09-14-2006, 05:03 PM
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Re: (nowtype)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that before or after they cause hot spots on the sleeves around where combustion occurs? Also is that before or after the sleeves see increased stress due to the aluminum preventing the sleeves from expanding? I'd say the pros do not weigh out the cons except maybe on a race only application. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Hot spots, your nuts, if you have a block guard that's installed properly and is properly designed(as many holes as the head gasket) then theres no way to have that problem, other wise companies like Dart, GE, AEBS would have heating problems with there after market sleeves(semi-closed deck design, or T-sleeve). Only Benson does'nt use this design.............
Hot spots, your nuts, if you have a block guard that's installed properly and is properly designed(as many holes as the head gasket) then theres no way to have that problem, other wise companies like Dart, GE, AEBS would have heating problems with there after market sleeves(semi-closed deck design, or T-sleeve). Only Benson does'nt use this design.............
09-14-2006, 10:42 PM
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Re: (Garage 808 Hatch)
I hope mine will hold the sleeve in place when i eventually crack one preventing the pistons etc from getting trashed when it lets go.I file fitted mine tacked it in and then had the block bored and decked.
09-14-2006, 11:06 PM
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Re: (Garage 808 Hatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Garage 808 Hatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, it seemed to work for over 450 hp, it cant be too 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive seen stock sleeved setups minus block gaurds make 600+whp all day long and i personally made 400whp on a completely stock gsr. i personally dont like them and think theyre a waste of money. in fact...with my gt42r(800+whp) build ill be using open deck sleeves...NO blockgaurd. i will not need one.
AGAIN...personal opinion. if you want one then throw one in...no harm done.
</TD></TR></TABLE>ive seen stock sleeved setups minus block gaurds make 600+whp all day long and i personally made 400whp on a completely stock gsr. i personally dont like them and think theyre a waste of money. in fact...with my gt42r(800+whp) build ill be using open deck sleeves...NO blockgaurd. i will not need one.
AGAIN...personal opinion. if you want one then throw one in...no harm done.
09-15-2006, 08:01 AM
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Re: (Mugencrxsir1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mugencrxsir1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hot spots, your nuts, if you have a block guard that's installed properly and is properly designed(as many holes as the head gasket) then theres no way to have that problem, other wise companies like Dart, GE, AEBS would have heating problems with there after market sleeves(semi-closed deck design, or T-sleeve). Only Benson does'nt use this design.............</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong. If you stick a piece of aluminum against a piece of iron and have water flow over the piece of aluminum, it will take a hell of a lot longer for the iron to get cooled. Again, hot spots. I gaurentee if you measure the heat along the sleeve, at the point where the block guard is, the sleeve will be hotter. There is simply no other possibility. But thanks for playing.
Wrong. If you stick a piece of aluminum against a piece of iron and have water flow over the piece of aluminum, it will take a hell of a lot longer for the iron to get cooled. Again, hot spots. I gaurentee if you measure the heat along the sleeve, at the point where the block guard is, the sleeve will be hotter. There is simply no other possibility. But thanks for playing.
09-15-2006, 08:11 AM
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Re: (nowtype)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nowtype »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wrong. If you stick a piece of aluminum against a piece of iron and have water flow over the piece of aluminum, it will take a hell of a lot longer for the iron to get cooled. Again, hot spots. I gaurentee if you measure the heat along the sleeve, at the point where the block guard is, the sleeve will be hotter. There is simply no other possibility. But thanks for playing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Interesting smart ***, then explain why the top 3 aftermarket sleeve companies don't these problems. Correct me if I'm but there sleeves are 100% iron, and the block is still aluminum. So according to you they should have the same problems, but I have'nt heard of GE or AEBS having over heating problems. Yes I agree that iron and aluminum expand at different temps, and hot spots should only occur from lack of workmenship... You need to explain your view point a little more to convince me, because right now you are speaking from here say, and not from experience...... Any proof..........
Interesting smart ***, then explain why the top 3 aftermarket sleeve companies don't these problems. Correct me if I'm but there sleeves are 100% iron, and the block is still aluminum. So according to you they should have the same problems, but I have'nt heard of GE or AEBS having over heating problems. Yes I agree that iron and aluminum expand at different temps, and hot spots should only occur from lack of workmenship... You need to explain your view point a little more to convince me, because right now you are speaking from here say, and not from experience...... Any proof..........
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