1st off here my set up.
93 Civic CX with stock D-series engine
- Tein HA (ITR) with ITR rear LCA
- GSR front LCA with 24mm (stock GSR) sway bar
- 22mm ITR rear sway bar
- GSR front upper strut bar
- Ebay/generic rear upper strut bar.
- ITR 5 lug brake conversion with 15X7 Kosei K1 with 205/50-15 Azenis..

my problem..
the thing just will not turn when i push it. its handels sweet at low to semi fast corners.. but as soon as i want to push it hard..that front end just plows bad.
Even on an off ramp i can go into it hauling ***, full throttle, lift off and steering and the back end wont even begin to come around

thing that bugs me..
my friend has almost the exact same set up except for he has B18C5 swap and Poly bushings all around. His car.. u take a turn a little too fast. that *** is stepping out, not to bad, but almost the right amount. his car just feels solid through the turns.

how can i fix this?
Ive read that a smaller front bar (21mm front with 22mm rear) will get rid of the problem. true or not?
What else can i do to make my EG hatch handel better? get it re-aligned? camber kit? smaller sway bar up front?

thanks for the helps guys.

-Graham

 

also.. what are some good settings for toe and camber? is 1/16th toe out all around good? and camber? -1.5 front and 1.0 rear? more or less? this is a daily driver that will see the drag strip and road course often

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of front wheel drive. J/k

 

larger rear sway bar will help...but u can also go with a slightly smaller front sway bar but you might get more body roll in that area since all the weight of the car is there...another factor that makes your friend's car handle better through the corners is lsd...your tires are just spinning

 

>how can i fix this?

Attend driving school.

Cheers,
Roy

 

Take the front swaybar off and maybe the strut brace too. Do you have any idea of the physics of stiffening your chassis? You have a more structurally rigid geometry going on in the front of your car right now: of course it's going to plow at speed. Think about it this way:

Hondas plow badly in stock form. Adding stiffer rear shocks or a rear swaybar will largely negate this. If you put a 22mm bar on the back and a 24mm bar on the front, however, you've just made the front even more rigid than it was from the factory without compensating the rear of the chassis. Basically, you should plow more with your setup.

I guarantee if you take the front swaybar off, your problem won't be nearly as bad.

 

i understand what your saying.. but im just wondering why integra R's or even GSR's feel like they handel so nice and compared to my car. my friends R doens't feel it understeers at all.

an ITR feels great and it has the same size front and rear sway bar that i have. why the big difference in handeling?

 

i would play around with ride height in the front and rear....also....custome camber and toe aligning...
good luck..i had better results with these adjustments...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Downey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand what your saying.. but im just wondering why integra R's or even GSR's feel like they handel so nice and compared to my car. my friends R doens't feel it understeers at all.

an ITR feels great and it has the same size front and rear sway bar that i have. why the big difference in handeling?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ITR feels great because it has an lsd... and they do make the biggest difference and integras understeer less, I believe cause they have a shorter wheelbase.

Your freinds car probably understeers less.. because he has a b18... alot heavier than your d16. Also try stiffen your shocks in the rear.. actually try to make your whole rear end stiffer.. but be careful testing out your settings.

 

What are your spring rates? Arch is right, try taking off the front bar, or use a smaller one. As far as toe settings go, try some toe out in the rear. What are yuo camber settings like right now?

 

what tires you running??

tire pressure....
spring rates....damping rates
alignment.

all effect handling

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Downey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1st off here my set up.
93 Civic CX with stock D-series engine
- Tein HA (ITR) with ITR rear LCA
- GSR front LCA with 24mm (stock GSR) sway bar
- 22mm ITR rear sway bar
-- ITR 5 lug brake conversion with 15X7 Kosei K1 with 205/50-15 Azenis..

my problem..
-Graham</TD></TR></TABLE>

You replaced a lot of suspension parts....
did you replace it all?
if not your geometry could be all f'ed up

have you had the car professionally aligned?
This would be a starting point.

 

Set your front tire pressure to 35psi and rear to 45psi.

 

ya you need to stiffen up our rear end. Get some stiffer springs. That will help and possibly induce oversteer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Downey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i understand what your saying.. but im just wondering why integra R's or even GSR's feel like they handel so nice and compared to my car. my friends R doens't feel it understeers at all.

an ITR feels great and it has the same size front and rear sway bar that i have. why the big difference in handeling?</TD></TR></TABLE>

ITRs have extensive structural stiffening in the rear as well.