which one would be the better choice to turbo charge and be handle to hold lots of boost? since the b20 is 2.0L alrigthy i was thinking about going with that. or should i bore out a ls bottom and use that. which one is stronger and can hold lots of boost planning on builting it to hold about 500hp. i know there both the same but are the crank the same too.

 

The B20 and B18B cranks are the same. The only difference (for the most part) is the piston bore size. Either of them probably won't hold the boost you are planning, especially if you are not a tuning pro.

With that goal I'd go with the B18B block, send it out for GE sleeves, and replace the internals with aftermarket units. Good luck


[Modified by SLPR, 1:39 PM 10/23/2002]

 

so bore a ls to a 2.0 would be better then a b20 for turbocharge? i'm planning on builting it up and getting a good tuning job so..

 

If you're sleeving, there is no difference between the two blocks performance-wise. Only difference is that B20 blocks typically cost more and also that Golden Eagle charges more for B20 blocks. So, might as well get a B18...

 

Sleeving a B18B engine is not really simply boring it to 84mm.....it is more of replacing the oem sleeves with stonger ductile iron sleeves. You can choose the bore diameter you would like to use. The oem sleeves are typically a weak point for high boost engines.
I was making the point that I would rather have a sleeved block rather than a non-sleeved block for any boosted application. Either engine can be used but the B18B will be found easier and cheaper.

 

from what i hear, b20 sleeves are weak...if i had the option, i would send a b18b out and get it bored and sleeved, rods, pistons, ect....good luck and happy boosting

 

True. It cost about $1300 to send your block to Golden Eagle and get it resleeved. Dont forget new pistons and rods too.

 

Actually, it would cost more to resleeve a B18B block. Most people consider just the cost of an LS block and resleeving vs the cost of a B20. But you must remember that (1) stock LS pistons don't work well in 84mm holes, (2) stock LS rings don't work any better on 84mm pistons, and (3) you will need to buy other miscellaneous parts (gaskets, seals, etc.) to put the engine together. And this assumes you don't have to pay someone else to do the work. So unless you need a stronger bottom end, it is cheaper to just buy the B20.

 

Stock sleeves will NOT hold 500 hp neither will the pistons nor connecting rods.

 

Yeah, I agree. But in the original post he mentions a power figure of 500hp. At that level, I would assume he would be sleeving any block he chooses. So, the B18 (non-C) would still be cheaper.

 

are there any differents between the b18a and b18b. i heard some people putting a b18b head onto a b18a block just want to know if that have any affect on it.

 

I don't beleive there is any difference between the A and the B, but don't quote me on it. Either way, if there is a difference, it's minor at best as they are interchangable.

 

Well you guys need to get the facts straight. B18b stock bore is 84mm. B20 is 84mm, and B18a is 81mm!! So why won't B18b pistons work in a B20? If you are going to build a LS/B20 for turbo sleeve either one!! My B20 was bored .20 over with 11.0:1 pistons, and no NOS, and 3 of the sleeves (stock) are cracked at only 4500 miles!!

Build a B20, more displacement!!

 

Please say you are kidding B18A or B is 81mm bore. Hence the "B18" in B18. Also, it's a known fact that the B20B and Z have the weakest sleeves of all B series engines. If you cracked a sleeve running all motor, that is a sure sign of detonation. Whoever tuned your setup, stay away from them. Far away.

 

If you are trying to build a 500HP motor, I would forget about sleeving any kind of stock block. Get the Dart block. It already has a closed deck. It is made from a MUCH stronger alloy. And it has a raised deck, which allows you to run a longer rod. This last factor is VERY important if you are running ALOT of boost.

 

Yes, I agree, go with a Dart block, it would cost you about the same as a ls block, and then having to sleeve it.

 

Unless you are going pro (or are sponsored by mom & dad), the DART block is completely overkill. A GE or AEBS sleeved block can withstand 500, 600, 700 horsepower easily (given the correct internals) and cost less to boot. You people really need to do more research.

 

I have researched these things. And I still think the Dart block would be a good idea. After all, it gives you that one thing that you can't get from a resleeved Honda block - a raised deck. Because of this feature, the Dart block can safely and reliably accommodate longer strokes than stock Honda blocks for increased displacement. This is very important if you are building an allmotor car and therefore can't just increase the boost for more power.

 

Yeah, I totally agree with you. There just so damn expensive. I guess I'm just jealous since I'll never be able to afford one

EDIT: Oh, and just for arguments sake, Golden Eagle is now producing sleeved/raised deck blocks But the Dart is a kick-*** product.


[Modified by DSF, 8:06 AM 10/31/2002]

 

I'm starting to see b20 stock cylinders fail in high horsepower n/a apps. I believe that no matter how perfect your turbo tune-up is, the b20 cylinder will probably fail in the first year of use.