Ok, what do you guys think could be the best power output of a stock b16a with a blower on it. I mean with all the boltons you can get for the supercharger eg. header, woter injection. What would be the best time with winter tires in a 4gen civic hb. If you have any similar setups please post them.

 

Anyone? I know this is a very beginner like question, but I am curious on others opoinions.

 

Did you see writeup on Vortech blower with charge cooler going 272 Hp to the wheels?

 

272hp and what did it run? 14.0??? all vortec power is up-top, the si already has pathetic torque the jackson should help it much more. If your wanted that type of power u should go with turbo but if you want a s/c your looking in the wrong place. Anytime anyone post something about the jrsc all they say is its crap. Go to superhonda.org. They have a forum specifically for s/c and they can probably help you out. This board hates the jrsc.

 

Now, I am the last one to down TC as I was very happy with the one I had on my d16, but those Vortechs have and make AWESOME boost though basically nobody has wrung them out for what they will do yet.

Jackson - FORGET THEM!!I have a NA b16a right now and regularly crush them at the track....If you know cars, the Vortech w/ 14.0 @ track with massive tire spin is not that bad - try putting a couple of slicks on that puppy.As a friend of mine used to say, those Jacksons won't pull the skin back on your di--.

I do feel sorry for those that waste their time with Jackson SC - did you see Focus in last SS Mag (I think that was the one) - 147 whp on a 2.0 liter motor - that is DAMN bad.

 

TO: Red Civic T
Those people that you crush must suck at driving. I my Jr put down 275whp at 12 psi on stock motor. 310cc injectors, Header, Exhaust. Nothing else. Car ran 12.8's on street tires with a 2.4 60' time...spinning half of the track. I cant stand people that have never tried to do anything productive with the JR. You only flame and talk crap because of second hand talk.....


Sreamer:
A stock B16a 1st gen with stock JR will hit around 180 whp. I have done it personaly. with some of the bolt-ons and no water injection, it hit 190 whp( INtake, Header, Exhaust).

 

TRUST ME,,,,,SUPERCHARGERS SUCK!!!!!!!GO TURBO,GO TURBO,YOU GET THAT S/C,AND YOU WILL BE MAD!!!!!!!

 

Another fool who hasnt ever put the JR to its full potential. Dont get me wrong...Turbos are more efficient and will make way more power and have a larger Hp band....but no need to flame a blower. A 12psi blower car will beat a 12psi turbo car light to light. I like both of them. I think that if you want a fast street car, get the blower, but if the car sees alot of track time and more serious racing, get the turbo.

 

Blown 90 - you kill me, talk plenty, and have NO idea what I know or have done, or driven. I say what I say because it is embarrassing for the poor folks who have put out the money to see a NA b16a in a FOUR DOOR kill a SC two door car with the same basic motor (full interior). And that is not just once but repeatedly.
Also, we are talking about what is basically available. Not to call you a liar but you are the one talking sh-- about Jacksons - they do NOT have a track record around here, and I am NOT trying to say anything all that great about my stuff.

You pull a hypothetical example of your choosing and apply it. Look, on the track SC cars get spanked around here, and there USED to be a lot of them until they repeatedly got their asses handed to them by just about anything else coming along.Your talk reminds me of all those people who were howling about Endyn blower cars where they would just bray like donkeys about what somebody else has done, and I am talking about what we see with our own eyes. Congrats to you if you made all that power but that has NOTHING to do with what we see with our own eyes on a repeated basis. Maybe if you have a secret you should put it in a magazine.

The only Jacksons we have EVER seen around here were cheating like monsters with NOS whcih then throwe the whole idea of SC in the toilet.

 

Hoo hoo . . . . winter tires, good luck. I'd say 16 seconds. If you're lucky . . . .

If you don't plan swapping tires for the strip, don't even bother going. It's just going to be a frustrating experience - not to mention ruin your winter tires.

And over on ClubSi, there are folks with JRSC B16's doing a solid 200 whp & around 135 ft/lbs. torque (almost completely flat curve - very nice). 6 psi & standard bolt-ons. Best option for street & autocross, IMO. It's going to be a rare N/A that can keep ahead of you.


[Modified by Daemione, 9:21 AM 12/10/2001]

 

Ok, I got to clear some things up here. First of all I am not building one cause I do think it is a wast of time, and I love my N/A setup, which puts out 200whp and 140wtq, so I don't need to spend extra money to go with sc. Why I am trying to find out what this setup could do is because there is a guy that desperately wants to race me for any money. He even offered to go for $2000cnd. I know form friends that his motor is stock, that means no pistons, rods etc, to make it run more boost. I know he was also considering NOS to pump up the power. So now my delem is how fast is he and what else could he be keeping under his sleeve.

By the way winter tires are a poor man's slicks. They are the best thing you can get to drag race besides a slick. (very soft compound = good tracktion) So I know he will be running at least winters.

 

Have you ever driven on winter tires? I'm sorry, but that is nowhere near correct.

Winter Tires + Forced Induction = uncontrollable wheelspin. My stock prelude with it's somewhat tired clutch chirps third gear with the winters on. With performance rubber I can't even chirp second.

If he's supercharged & running winter tires, I'd put down as much money as I have that you'd beat him (assuming your car is as fast as you claim, and you don't run winter tires).

And excuse me for being skeptical, but that's a crap-load of torque for a N/A setup. What work do you have done on the car to get that output?


[Modified by Daemione, 4:39 PM 12/10/2001]

 

I will have to disagree with you once again. You are talking about tires that are best run under high pressure loads 38psi +, I am, on the other hand, talking about winter rubber which is really sticky a specially if you take for example such tires as Blizzaks, and second of all I am talking about drag racing where you need only 24psi or less. If you do only run on low psi like I have mentioned you are way better off than with a high performance street tire (that is only if you can not run drag slicks), (I also don't mean competition tire, but street performance tires).

As for my car, I am putting 140wtq my setup consists of:

JDM Sir-G (GSR)
stock bottom end (10.6:1 cr)
Jun stage 3 cams
cam gears
ITR vavles
portflow inner vavle springs
ITR outer valve springs
Ti retainers
Skunk2 (ITR) intake manifold
ITR TB ported and polished
4-1 DC ss header
ITR tranny
Mugan head gasket making about 11:1 cr
custom tunned ecu
ITR fuel pump
ITR b-pipe
crappy muffler and some carppy intake
The head is still stock no porting or polishing that should also produce some motivative gains, a specially with some oversized exhaust valves.
With this setup I got 194.7 whp and 137.6 wtq

I have recently added:
MSD digital 6
MSD external #3 coil
MSD red wires

I have not yet dynoed the car with the addition of the MSD, but it is more alive and the power band seemd to be more smooth. I should be making additional 4-5 whp with it

And soon to come:
Make the header into 2.5" at collector
and add some nice custom exhaust 2.5" straight for the engine back
With this it should put me well above 200whp since the ITR b-pipe is very restrictive as well as the muffler that I am currently running.

Don't just eveyone like to write about their setup.

 

Ah, I was thinking of a 1.6 engine. With a GS-R's displacement, things make a lot more sense.

And we'll have to agree to disagree on the tire issue. I'm running on blizzak's right now, and no matter what the psi, they roast themselves to a crisp with even a partially aggressive launch.

Winter tires are sticky at cold temperatures - which would be their benefit in cold weather. But warm them up to standard operating temperatures, and with any kind of wheel slippage on dry surfaces traction drops dramatically. It's like driving on pencil erasers. . . .