Auto to Stick Conversion
If you know anything or have done an auto to stick conversion, can you please tell me what I need to do to do it on a '96 Civic Hatch. I plan on upgradeing to a b18c engine, tranny, and ecu.
Just did the conversion on my 96 coupe. You need the following:
Clutch reservoir
Clutch cylinder
Clutch hydraulic line
Swap motor should have clutch slave cylinder
MTX pedal set
Shifter
For the floorboard, I had a salvage yard cut the floorboard out around the shifter. I trimmed it and seal and bolted it to the floor board of my coupe. Super clean install and I was able to use all the OE shifter debrs boots, etc.
Most of my time was spent trying to cut and remove the "bubble" on the bottom of the floorboard that housed the ATX tranny cable. PITA, but had to come off to seal off the hold with the trimmed up MTX floorboard.
You need to wire the backup lights up and if you want, the clutch ignition kill, so you cannot start the car without the cluth being depressed. There should be details on the backup light wiring. Most people leave the "ATX shift slider" in the car with it in "park". I personally cut it out and wired the necessary wires to start the car,, because my slider kept moving and I would not be able to remove my key from the ignition when I stopped the car.
Clutch reservoir
Clutch cylinder
Clutch hydraulic line
Swap motor should have clutch slave cylinder
MTX pedal set
Shifter
For the floorboard, I had a salvage yard cut the floorboard out around the shifter. I trimmed it and seal and bolted it to the floor board of my coupe. Super clean install and I was able to use all the OE shifter debrs boots, etc.
Most of my time was spent trying to cut and remove the "bubble" on the bottom of the floorboard that housed the ATX tranny cable. PITA, but had to come off to seal off the hold with the trimmed up MTX floorboard.
You need to wire the backup lights up and if you want, the clutch ignition kill, so you cannot start the car without the cluth being depressed. There should be details on the backup light wiring. Most people leave the "ATX shift slider" in the car with it in "park". I personally cut it out and wired the necessary wires to start the car,, because my slider kept moving and I would not be able to remove my key from the ignition when I stopped the car.
Worth? No one can tell you what something is worth to YOU. Only YOU can answer that. Is it difficult? On a scale to 1 to 5 I would say its about a 3. The fabrication for shifter assembly hole is probably the most difficult part, otherwise I would rate it a 2. Everything else is bread n butter.
Parts are going to take some searching on your part. Cheapest solution is most likely the salvage yards. I picked up everything for my conversion for $150. Theres the internet, but they tend to charge more and then theres the dealer and they will bend you over. You pick whats easiest for you.
My advice is find a MTX civic similar to yours and study it. Its really quit simple
Parts are going to take some searching on your part. Cheapest solution is most likely the salvage yards. I picked up everything for my conversion for $150. Theres the internet, but they tend to charge more and then theres the dealer and they will bend you over. You pick whats easiest for you.
My advice is find a MTX civic similar to yours and study it. Its really quit simple
I'm not sure how accurate it will be for 96-? but heres one for a 92-95 ceonversion https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=792728
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by cutt
anyone have a thread on an EF conversion
Manual trans
Manual flywheel
Manual flywheel bolts
Manual Ecu
Shift linkage
Shifter
Pedals
Side trans mount and rear trans mount from a manual, the pedals will probably be the hardest part. Here is some more wiring to help you out.
Installing the pedals (have fun):
This part sucks. Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part. I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column. Have fun getting it out. Remove cotter pin that holds brake pedal to brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it. Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.
Removal of the transmission:
To remove the transmission (you should know how to do this otherwise don't attempt). Please check my work with a chiltons or haynes manual as i will not be held responcible for damages that incure from this install. Remove both axels. Unbolt the bellhousing, remove the mounts (3 of them) and remove transmission, this is a unusually large tranny, it might require the whole engine coming out depended on how patient you are. I had the whole thing out cause i was putting a DOHC ZC in. Unbolt the torque converter from the motor, install flywheel (make sure not to reuse automatic flywheel bolts).
Installing shift linkage
This is a fairly simple task, remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom. Then drill 2 holes where honda welded over them as picture below. Then simply install as a normal linkage would be. Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on, the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.
Installing the transmission:
Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque. Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs. Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there. Reassemble as specified in honda manual. Put new manual axels in.
Wiring with diagrams:
Drag two wires from under the hood (yellow and green on tranny) for the reverse lights to work when you are in reverse. Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring. Connect these to wires to the ones pictured below
I found this one out the hard way, the key will not come out unless the car is in park and um, you dont have a park anymore. To fix this you can make the car think its in park all the time. Please understand, by doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected one of 2 ways, disconneting the light or some extensive relay work.
This one is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires instead of the other with two yellow wires. Just connect them in a simple loop, or with some relay work to the clutch pedal because some decent current goes through them directly to the starter. I just left it like picture and allways crank the car with my foot on the clutch.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
moosepoop21
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
14
Jul 30, 2006 09:12 PM



.

