After blowing my turbo ZC motor I'm done with D series and ZC's and I'm getting ready to go pick up my B16 tomorrow. Here's the thing I have two choices. One get a OBD0 B16 or get a OBD1 B16 ( have to change over the Dizzy , injectors , and ECU ). The Company I'm getting the motor from said if he sells me a OBD1 B16 and he'll change over the dizzy , and ECU ( I'm just gonna use my old ZC injectors since they're the same as B16's ). Now will using a OBD1 B16 on a OBD0 ECU throw any false or funny codes as long as I switch everything over that needs to be. Also I'd like to use the OBD1 since it has 10 more HP and is supposely alittle better because of it. Cost isn't a issue since I have more then enough to cover either one ( the obd0 being alittle cheaper ). Just curious since I don't want to get stuck with a motor that I have to switch a bunch of things around. Just the injectors , Dizzy ( distributer ) , and ECU is fine with me unless there's something else I'm forgetting.

 

you have to match obd0 or obd1 between your ecu and distributor. they count revs differently obd0 vs obd1, so make sure you keep them consistent. obd1 dizzy with obd1 ecu, or obd0 dizzy with obd0 ecu. also, your ZC injectors might act funny since they aren't the same impedance as obd1/2 civic/integra injectors, hence the use of a resistor box for ZC swaps into EF's. obd1/2 civics/integras don't use an injector resistor box. just grab some obd1 b-series injectors somewhere and you'll be set.

-T

 

Just to clear everything up to everyone I know all about the injectors. I wasn't planning on using OBD0 injectors with a OBD1 Set-up I was talking about using a OBD1 Motor but switching everything so that it's basicly a OBD0 motor. ( ex. running a OBD1 motor with a OBD0 ECU , OBD0 Dizzy , OBD0 Injectors ). OBD1 motors don't use resistors boxs cause they have sachurated style injectors not peak hold like Pre-OBD. I'm just woundering if anyone is using a OBD1 motor in their EF's what they had to go threw if they switched to a OBD1 set-up.

 

I'm not sure exactly what the question is but I'll try to help, and make the explanation simple. I'm running a non-OBD setup in my EF now. Was going to conver to OBD-2 but now I'm going to just do OBD-1. And I know the process back and forth, as I've prepared and done research as you're doing now . Your options are as followed:

Option 1: Non-OBD requiurements
- non-OBD PR3 or PW0 ECU
- non-OBD DOHC VTEC distributor

Option 2: OBD-1/2 requiurements
- OBD1/2 ECU
- Get/make a jumper harness. (http://www.boosted.org/ecu/)
- OBD-1/2 distributor

Injectors Options:
You can run either non-OBD (peak and hold) or OBD-1/2 (saturated) injectors on either of the above setups. To run the non-OBD injectors, simply plug and play in your EFI ready EF. To run the OBD-1/2 injectors, remove the injector box in your EFI EF and use the proper injector clips.

Personally, I feel that the cliche 'newer is better' fits this situation. Go with the newer OBD motor. If you get a cable tranny OBD-1 B16A then that means you have a DA motor, which also means the rare YS1 VTEC tranny .

HTH,
C