Ok. SO I had to change a piston out cuz the ringlands cracked in it. Crank pulley is still on car.

So off goes the head. I took off valve cover, took off camgear covers, loosened the tensioner bolt, and pulled the belt off. The cams were both UP UP (number 1 TDC). I used some white out on the belt tooth and cam gear to mark which tooth goes on which belt tooth. Meanwhile, the belt just kinda chilled while other work was being done.

So I installed the head, put in the cams, and was messing around with sliding the belt back on. After messing around, my marks disappeared! Soo, after fiddling around, I got the cams and cam caps in, but the marks do not line up. Keep in mind my belt is still a bit loose.

I guess my question is that, Im pretty sure the crank pulley is set so number 1 is at TDC (isn't lining up the plastic mark on the cover with the white mark on the crank pulley signify this? Also I can see the cyl 1 and 4 are at the top)

and if I get my camgears to line up with that mark, I install the belt and all is good? As you can see, they are not lined up.

 

Just postion the cams at TDC...Line up the fouth dot on the Cam pulley with the small arrow engraved on oil pump and just slide the belt on and tighten up the tensioner...You might have to turn the crank a little to where the slack from the belt is on the back by the tensioner then tighten it up...You just have to play around with it

 

Yes, you want to make sure you have BOTH arrows pointing straight up. It takes a few manouvering and such, and also make sure the crank is at TDC by the marks at the crank pulley as well.

 

Not only do you want to make sure both cams are positioned with the arrow pointing up, but if you notice in the picture, there is a small line on one of the teeth of each gear. Those lines must be directly across from each other.

 

Also after you get everything lined up you need to turn the crank 3 teeth past top dead center to put tension on the belt and then torque the tensior bolt. Its alot easier to line up a dual cam than a single cam in my opinion. If i were you i would take off the crank pulley. Makes it so much easier to line up.

 

If your crank is at TDC (the white mark lined up with the pointer on the timing cover), it looks like your exhaust cam (front) is o.k., while your intake cam (rear) is one tooth too far advanced. The little hash marks on the cam gears should be even with each other and the surface of the head.

 

Am I supposed to line these up with the cam caps on or off?

 

Seriously? On.

 

I know that was a dumb question. Its just that when I had them on I couldn't move the cams....it was getting late.

Ok I got the belt on, and I got the timing marks all lined up. Now I must torque the tensioner bolt....

Im not quite sure I understand the turn crank pulley 3 teeth (3 camgear teeth?) and then torque it?

EDIT: Im looking at my Helm now so I think i'll figure it out.

Thanks all!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si_mekanik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... Im not quite sure I understand the turn crank pulley 3 teeth (3 camgear teeth?) and then torque it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You want the belt to be kinda tight everywhere, and all the slack gets taken up by the tensioner. Then tighten the tensioner bolt to lock it in place. If you don't do that, then maybe you'll leave some slack somewhere & when you're done the belt won't be tight enough.

 

That is whats happening actually. I did rotate the crank counterclockwise about 3 teeth, and tightened the bolt. The exhaust side belt is snug, but the intake side is kinda loose. I guess I have to keep tightening?

I tried to get my torque wrench in there but couldn't!!!

 

A little trick, keep tension on the crank (counterclockwise) until you lock down the tensioner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A little trick, keep tension on the crank (counterclockwise) until you lock down the tensioner.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, and also while you do this; you want the tensioner bolt to be sufficiently loose that the spring can make it slide to take up the tension.

And the timing belt isn't supposed to be as tight as, say, your AC belt...

There's isn't a lot of room to get a big wrench on the tensioner bolt, but it's not about that bolt being tight. The tensioner pulley has to slide to take up the slack in the belt. Then you just tighten the bolt to lock it into place. Overtightening the bolt isn't gonna help you at all.

 

~40-45 ft-lbs (forget exact number in helms)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">~40-45 ft-lbs (forget exact number in helms)</TD></TR></TABLE>
You better check that. It sounds too high. But I don't have the book here...

 

Nope he's right, 40 ft lbs.