My wife has a 2000 ex, goodyear told her that te compressor was bad, so i bought a new compressor, drier and A/C belt. i started everything up and the compressor sounded like crap. kinda like a screaching. this sound was not there when the original compressor was there so i know it has to do with this compressor. I put in 4oz of pag-100 directly into the compressor, did i put in too much? not enough? also i have no idea how loose or tight the A/C belt needs to be so is this the problem? thanks for any help, also, do you have to loosen the pulley in order for the belt to loosen or tighten or can u just turn that 10mm bolt?

 

only other thing i can think of is if it is making this noise because the system is empty, anyway im pretty sure it has to do with how loose or tight the belt is cuz when i mess with it it gets worse, how loose oer tight does it have to be, and again i ask does the 14mm on the pulley have to be loose when adjusting the 10mm? sorry for the stupid questions but i usually just take this crap out, but you know how woman are...

 

so you didnt put any r134a back in?

 

no sir, im going to take it to a shop and have them do that and vacuum the system, i will have a video up of the sound shortly

 

Running an A/C compressor with no refrigerant will damage the compressor, did you at least put oil into the compressor before you ran it?

Also, how did you get the compressor to turn on, [clutch engage] without a charge, [R134a] in the system???? 94

 

the compressor is belt driven so it spins when the crank spins, i didnt press the a/c button in the car so i dont think its engaging, i put 4 oz of pag-100 in the compressor before i ran it, i think i put that at the top of this page, so i cant drive the car this weekend to run small errands? all the local shops are booked til monday, that is when im gonna get it vacuumed and refilled, here is how it sounds.....also when i put the car in drive the sound completely goes away, "whats up with that, ooooh weee"(SNL)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/62032926@N07/6176057212/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/62032926@N07/6176101454/

 

The compressor idler wheel is belt driven, as long as clutch does not engage the compressor is not running, just the idler wheel should be spinning, check and make sure compressor clutch plate is not spinning.

Press on belt between pulleys, if belt "defects" about 1/4-1/2 an inch, tension is good, to adjust it you loosen #19 and adjust #17... http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...R+%28SANDEN%29 once adjusted tighten #19.

The clutch plate is the one between #s 4 and 7, it should not be spinning, if it is not and belt tension is good, the idler wheel, [between #s 8 and 9] bearing is N/G and you will need to replace the compressor or the clutch assembly, #5 if avalable, either way you will need to pull the compressor again.

It is also possible that it is the pully,#24 that is bad, remove the belt off the compressor idler wheel and spin it by hand, it should spin freely with no resistance and no sound. 94

 

when i was adjusting the belt i was just messing with #17 i didnt know you had to mess with #19 so I will try that, yeah the pulley spun freely by hand before i put it in the car. did you watch the video? do you think that just has to do with the belt being too tight, cuz i dont think i had that much slack in it when i tightened it

 

ps thanks for the help and diagram that helped alot

 

If nobody ever was messing w/#19 then you should not touch it at all. It just secures the idle pulley ...once the proper torque is lost then the nut may come off lose and in time come off altogether without you knowing it at all; the pulley then will cause the power steering belt to shred when it comes in touch with it---and IT WILL!

#17 is the way to go...1/4 is fine...no more.

Your problem is running the system dry. Loosen the belt up to 3/4" and have the system charged before proper tensioning again. Good luck.

 

ok thanks man, so i have to take off the belt before i go to the shop? i cant drive it down there dry?

 

I would take it off to be safe but that's a lot of work...just loosen it enough so it does not slip off the tensioner pulley while you drive there then adjust on the spot after charging (bring a wrench w/you ;-)

 

If you do not know what the hell you are talking about you should STFU.

First, for the pulley assembly, [#24] to move, [slide up or down the stay, #12] the 10mm flange nut, #19 must be loosened, trying to turn bolt #17 without loosening nut #19 will result in damage.

Second, as long as compressor clutch is not engaging for some reason, [it should not, if system is empty] then only the compressor idler wheel will turn and compressor is nothing more then another idler pulley.

Third, running any belt loose enough so it will slip will damage the belt.

olddohc do not listen to this guy, he does not know what he is talking about.

As mentioned, as long as compressor clutch is not engaged, the belt can be on and adjusted to proper tension DO NOT leave belt loose enough to slip. 94

 

Agreed. I may have not explained well enough...many peopled forget to re-tighten #19 after adjusting w/#17

 

then those "many people" shouldn't be working on cars. If i ever loosen something i make sure its tight again. thank you for the help though. ok so im going to take the car in tomorrow morning. Im going to loosen the belt just a bit because i think it was too tight before but im going to leave it on, thanks for all the help guys, i will let you know how it turns out.

 

I GET THE AWARD FOR DUMBASS OF THE YEAR!!!! turns out it had nothing to do with the compressor, i was looking at the wrong thing the whole time. one of the ac lines that goes to the drier was rubbing against the power steering wheel, and the wheel was rubbing on the line, all i had to do was move the line away, unreal. it rubbed the line but not enough to pierce it, but i am going to put some jbweld on it to reinforce it, thanks again for all the help, i definitely learned alot, sorry to start a thread for such a small problem

 

so its still not working, took it to a shop last week to get it charged and they said there is a leak somewhere and need $100 to find it, wtf this is never ending

 

$100 to find a leak, I need to up our rates.
In most cases we would charge no more then $60, $40 for .5hr labour, [shop min.] and $20 for a nitrogen pressure test, [pressurize system to 250PSI with nitrogen.

With that said, if there was no leak before compressor swap and the only lines you removed were the ones on the compressor, [discharge and suction] then the leak will be at the O rings/seals at those connections.

Did you "oil up" the O rings or seals at those connections when you connected them.

Please tell me you replaced those O rings/seals when you installed the new compressor, if not, do so, A/C O rings and/or seals are a one time use item, they will fail 75% of the time if reused. 94

 

I did not replace them, rookie mistake again and I didnt oil them, i will do that and go from there, thanks again man. yeah things arent cheap around here. i went to him cuz most places wanted $120 or more to do the recharge but he offered $70 that is y i went to him. can i just use the pag-100 to oil them up?

 

We charge $120 + $2 an oz for R134a, "Canadian".

Yes you can use the Pag oil to oil them. 94