hey fellaz. I bought a afc neo like a couple weeks ago and right now im a little short on that cash money. So because of my financial crisis im not gonna be visiting the dyno n e time soon. i am aware that all cars react differently to tuning but mybe someone out there that has some info or experience can help me out. Right now i set the afc as follows and repeatedly checked the spark plugs to check 4 overly lean or rich mixture. so far they look good.

Trottle Position: Low- 15%
High- 55%

Air Map: 1k 2k 3k 4k 5k 6k 7k 8k

High- -3 -2 -1 -1 0 0 0 0
Low- -5 -4 -2 -2 -1 0 0 0

V tec: N/a
v tec unmatch: N/a

 

Honestly, you shouldn't be playing around with the settings unless you have access to a dyno and/or wideband O2. Checking the plugs is not a sufficient indicator. Just leave it zeroed and save until you can properly tune it.

 

Why would u run negative unless u got bigger injectors? For timing? Engine?

 

Please tell me you have a wideband. Also what is all done to your motor? If it is just bolt on's the zero the AFC out until you get it tuned. If your motor is built then park it leave it and wait until you can tune it. If you have the wideband then you should be able to see where you need to pull or add fuel. The Neo will be fine for bolt on's and such but if you plan on building the motor please do yourself a favor and consider a real engine management setup. Piggyback are just not the risk of a blown motor!!!

 

really? i dont have a wideband but i talked to some people and found that everyone took out some fuel on the bottom end and ever since i did it seemed to be running better. i didn't wanna get to agressive so i only did some seat of the pants tuning. just to maybe lower the correction factor on the ecu. i got a fuel rail, pressure regulator, cold intake, dc headers, apexi catback, and thats about it to sum it up. i mean its not like correction like -10 or +12. and it feels better. its been set at those settings for like 3 weeks. do u think its really that big of a concern? sould i just put it back to normal and leave it alone or what?

 

I would personally add a little fuel in VTEC from what Ive seen

 

Blind tuning is not only dangerous to your motor but you could actually be losing performance. Unless you have a wideband it is impossible to tell if you leaned it out to far or richened it up tp much. Never go by your butt dyno because sometimes your mind can play tricks on you. Just set your AFC to 0 and get a wide band. Generally you shoud be at 13.0 afr WOT and 14.7 at idle (NA). TRUST ME, I have seen to many people destroy motors blind tuning. You need to ask yourself is it really worth damaging your motor for what you feel is faster? The Neo is a decent tool but only if you use it right.

 

yeah. i never got dyno tuned b4. how long do u think it may take and how much on average are we talking about for a afc. n e recomendations on reputable tuning places in the new youk area?

 

It shouldn't be that much. The afc is a relatively simple thing to tune. If you get a wideband you can do it yourself and save some money down the road. Honestly an afc won't take long to tune at all (compared to other FM's out there).

 

thats really good 2 know. actually ima take that in2 consideration. i knew they were expensive but now that i think of it, it would b real good 2 have. maybe i can hook it up when i get a test pipe or high flow cat. just do two things at once. thanx mugen boy, and u to 25th.

 

Most wide band you can use inplace of your stock o2. They usually come with an anolog out put that feeds the ECU with a narrown band signal. All you do is wire the Anolog output from the wide band in place of the stock o2 signal at the ECU and then plug in a resistor between the stock o2 heater wires to trick the ecu that the stock O2 sensor is still there (to avoid CEL's). Then you would have a wideband meter in your car to tune with and your ECU would still se a stock narrow band signal. Lemmie know if you have any more questions .

 

greatly appreciated. ill take u up on that