my problem started on wednesday morning when i was going to college . i started my car when it was cold butt it didnt start immediately . took me about 5-10 cranks before it actually started . butt afterwards, of driving the car the whole day, everything was fine .

the next day, same problem in the morning again, after about 5-10 cranks . it was fine until i had a 2 hour break from classes . when i went to start up my car to go home, it took about 5-10 cranks .

and now today, it cranked butt didnt start at all in the morning . and when i got home it started after about 5-10 cranks . can someone help me please ?! i checked everything i could think of battery, fuel, injectors, and spark plugs, and everything seemed fine . i have no cel's . the only thing i could think of that was maybe wrong was that the place i changed my oil at a month ago, filled it with a little bit higher than the max mark, butt i dont know how that would effect the starting problem . also, the only thing i did to my car recently was maybe put in a new intake last month . extra info: its an 93 h23 in a 94 accord .

if anyone can help me, id really appreciate it . thanks .

 

Check the ground wires, and if that doesn't help make sure you have spark.

 

I would check your ignition switch as well, they cause this sort of problem when the inside contacts get worn, engine turns over on starter but the switch dosn't make the ignition circuit live until the key moved and turned again.

 

its the main relay man i can almost promise u to it over time they become cracked or loose u might need a new one and there not too expensive

 

how can i tell if the main relay is bad ?! is there any way you can test it ?!

 

well . i replaced the main relay butt i still got the same problem . it still cranks butt does not start . butt now i dont have spark . i was searching around the forum and i was wondering if it could possibly be an ignitor or coil ?! if so, how can i check to see if its bad ?!

 

change out your cap and rotor. Really cheap stuff to start with.

I just did mine and you shoulda seen my rotor, thing was fried and butt dyno says "It feels better now".

 

well . my cap and rotor are still fairly new . i changed it about 2-3 months ago and it still looks like its in good condition . i dont see any carbon buildup or anything . so would my cap and rotor really go bad within such a short amount of time ?!

oo i dont know if this helps any butt my distributor is also a fairly new unit which i bought from autozone maybe about 5 months ago . could it be that the distributors from autozone are not good quality distributors ?! i know they sold 2 types . a rebuilt one and a new one . and i bought the new one .

 

I thought it was the relay too. curious...

How old are your plug wires?

Do you hear the fuel pump when you are in pre-ignition?

OT: But = conjunction
Butt = joy of all gay men

Freudian perhaps?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Butt = joy of all gay men </TD></TR></TABLE>

ahahha . sorry about that

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSlow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Freudian perhaps?</TD></TR></TABLE>

and who/what is freudian ?!

"but" to answer your question, i bought my wires new along when i purchased my cap and rotor . yes i also hear the fuel pump . the only problem is no spark and i dont know what is causing it . its almost been a week since the problem started and its very frustrating since i need a car for school . i think i might as well send it to honda and get it over with .

by the way, would an 94 f22b2 ignitor work in an 93 h23 ?!


Modified by redxalien at 6:02 AM 9/1/2004

 

how is your gas doing?

same **** happened to me and sams ludes, but that was due to fuel pressure issues. well... he was running WAY too rich. and i had a fuel leak.

 

It will have to do with moisture building up in your distributor. (more than likely) you can change every thing in this world that you want to and it will probably not change a thing. UNLESS your injectors are sticking. You can test this by spraying gas into the trottle body. If it cranks then, your injectors are sticking or the injector resistors may be going bad. But chances are, moisture is getting in to the cap. I have went through this with an accord. We have replaced everything possible except the rotor and cap...You can take the cap off in morning, wipe it off and take a piece of sand paper to the nodes of the cap and on the rotor to get the moisture off if it. and bam...it will crank.

 

The relay happens when it is warm.... not cold. The thing about the relay is that it gets solder cracks in the solder points. When it heats up and the solder expands, it breaks the connections.

To test it, you can follow the instructions here. this is for a civic but all the honda main relays are the same.

To fix it, you can use a soldering gun and reheat all of the solder points to eliminate the cracks. VERY easy and saves $50.

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com\mainrelay.html

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redxalien &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">butt afterwards , it cranked butt</TD></TR></TABLE>

[nelson] haha [/nelson]