B16A 85 MM v B18C 84 MM need advice
Couple of questions to decide which way to go.
I wanted my engine build by import builders so I started mailing with jeff. First my idea was to sent him a b16a and have him make me a 2.0 liter. Resleeve to 84 mm bore and a stroker kit. But jeff told me that is no good it would not be relaible so if I want a 2.0 liter I need to have a itr or gsr shortblock. Which I don’t have.
So than jeff suggested to have the b16 resleeved with 85 mm bore because that would be far more reliable and could easily rev up to 11k rpm no problem. And that the b16 would be faster on the street ON STREET TYRES than the 2.0 liter. Because the 2.0 liter would put out to much torque to handle on street tires. With slicks the 2.0 liter would only be like a couple of thents of a sec faster on the quarter mile than the b16.
I asked him to built me a daily driver which is a drag racer in the weekend with 12:1 cr, stage 2 cams, p&p, arias pistons or IB spec pistons, balanced crank etc etc and it must be able to rev 9500 without problems.
The engine goes into a 4g civic hatch of about 975 kg and I want run low 12’s or high 11’s.
So that’s about it I like the 2.0 liter more but than I first have to get my hands on a b18c but if the difference is really that small I could go with the b16 so I would like to have some opinions and advice.
THANKS ESTOR.
Modified by rev limiter at 12:32 PM 9/23/2004
I wanted my engine build by import builders so I started mailing with jeff. First my idea was to sent him a b16a and have him make me a 2.0 liter. Resleeve to 84 mm bore and a stroker kit. But jeff told me that is no good it would not be relaible so if I want a 2.0 liter I need to have a itr or gsr shortblock. Which I don’t have.
So than jeff suggested to have the b16 resleeved with 85 mm bore because that would be far more reliable and could easily rev up to 11k rpm no problem. And that the b16 would be faster on the street ON STREET TYRES than the 2.0 liter. Because the 2.0 liter would put out to much torque to handle on street tires. With slicks the 2.0 liter would only be like a couple of thents of a sec faster on the quarter mile than the b16.
I asked him to built me a daily driver which is a drag racer in the weekend with 12:1 cr, stage 2 cams, p&p, arias pistons or IB spec pistons, balanced crank etc etc and it must be able to rev 9500 without problems.
The engine goes into a 4g civic hatch of about 975 kg and I want run low 12’s or high 11’s.
So that’s about it I like the 2.0 liter more but than I first have to get my hands on a b18c but if the difference is really that small I could go with the b16 so I would like to have some opinions and advice.
THANKS ESTOR.
Modified by rev limiter at 12:32 PM 9/23/2004
Might want to check this thread if you haven't already seen these
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=815614
Could use those pistons with GSR rods and crank in your b16 block and have big bore, 2L displacement, and still rev it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=815614
Could use those pistons with GSR rods and crank in your b16 block and have big bore, 2L displacement, and still rev it.
Thanks for the reply i am now reading the topic looks good for now only it is exactly like jeff said the wrist pin is where the oil ring is and accoording to jeff it would be an oil burner and not reliable
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where are you located? i have a bare b18b block i'll see ya ... exactly whay you need! Bore out to 84.5mm or 85mm and use the GE ls/vtec conversion kit and bam. Once you go up to a 2.0, it really doesn't matter if the block is an ls, itr, or gsr, as long as you have the head. makes for a badass setup. Lemme know.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rev limiter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL
</TD></TR></TABLE>LOL
That site uses LS rods and crank, not GSR. And if you sleeved a stock b16a to 85mm, you'd get about a 1.7L. I think the route with the LS rods and crank would be a nice setup, trying to convince a friend to do it, hehe. You already have the b16a, too much of a hassle finding a whole new block to work with.
If it is built good it won't blow up. And it it doesn't need to be full race it must be relaible too. So for example if 300 hp is possible with a certain motor i would like it to have 280 hp just to be safe.
keep as most meat around your cylinder ,rev as lower as you can for your engine and trans syncro,so I think that the best choice for reliability is a stock ITR block and if you want a 2L go with a LS or B20 block sleeved...GOOD LUCK
stock itr is not good enough beside i don't want another used engine. But i heard that a b18c sleeved to 2.0 liter would be more relaible than a b20. Even if it is built ??????
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rev limiter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stock itr is not good enough beside i don't want another used engine. But i heard that a b18c sleeved to 2.0 liter would be more relaible than a b20. Even if it is built ??????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sleeved B18C bored to 84mm vs B20 either sleeved or not
1. B18C has main girdle stock with dowels
2. B18C requires no modifications for VTEC head
3. B18C 87.2 mm crank stock, better reliability at same rev range than 89mm B20 crank
4. aftermarket sleeves more durable than oem sleeves
and a few rumored benefits that I cannot personally verify such as
5. B18C block has more/stronger webbing
6. OEM B18C rod bearings are better over OEM LS/B20 rod bearings as far as materials used (I've also seen differing opinions on the benefits of the different widths of the bearings)
Just a few reasons I would definitely suggest sleeved B18C over sleeved B20 and especially stock B20, assuming you have the extra $700-$1000 to play with between comparable builds between a sleeved block and a non-sleeved stock block
Sleeved B18C bored to 84mm vs B20 either sleeved or not
1. B18C has main girdle stock with dowels
2. B18C requires no modifications for VTEC head
3. B18C 87.2 mm crank stock, better reliability at same rev range than 89mm B20 crank
4. aftermarket sleeves more durable than oem sleeves
and a few rumored benefits that I cannot personally verify such as
5. B18C block has more/stronger webbing
6. OEM B18C rod bearings are better over OEM LS/B20 rod bearings as far as materials used (I've also seen differing opinions on the benefits of the different widths of the bearings)
Just a few reasons I would definitely suggest sleeved B18C over sleeved B20 and especially stock B20, assuming you have the extra $700-$1000 to play with between comparable builds between a sleeved block and a non-sleeved stock block
my buddy had ur same dilemma. this is what hes doing
its a b16 block getting bored to 85mm and a b17 crank/rods/custom pistons.
so it will be around 1.85l
since you already have a b16, theres no reason to buy another block IMO
its a b16 block getting bored to 85mm and a b17 crank/rods/custom pistons.
so it will be around 1.85l
since you already have a b16, theres no reason to buy another block IMO
I have build a b20 Vtec a few years ago. That car is stolen.
When I'm going to do it again, I'l go for a resleeved b18c. Less trouble, less work, stronger engine.
simple!
When I'm going to do it again, I'l go for a resleeved b18c. Less trouble, less work, stronger engine.
simple!
haha gaskleppie jij hier !! Klein wereldje leuk man !!!
That was dutch gaskleppie is on the same dutch forum as i am that's how i know hom funny to see him over here !!!
@towsondragcrx Nice numbers man !! i take it 192 is whp ?? But how much does your crx weights ??? i like your times !!! and how much rpm are you reving ???
That was dutch gaskleppie is on the same dutch forum as i am that's how i know hom funny to see him over here !!!
@towsondragcrx Nice numbers man !! i take it 192 is whp ?? But how much does your crx weights ??? i like your times !!! and how much rpm are you reving ???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rev limiter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oke let me know when it is finished and what your friend thinks of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
hes rjay8604 on here. you can ask him about the setup.
hes rjay8604 on here. you can ask him about the setup.
Den Haag en Wateringen...... Die liggen tegen elkaar! En we zitten lekker via de states te babbelen!! Mooi man, hahaha!
Ok, back to the States!
I build my B20 with a B18 crank, rods and Wiseco pistons. That gives the engine +-1934cc
It became a real torque monster in the little CRX. So even when its not quite a 2 liter it can be a realy strong engine.
The stock b20 sleeves are not that strong, but strong enough for a high revving NA engine.
But still, when i must do it again, i'l take my B18 and put in bigger benson sleeves. (85mm bore) That will give about 1980cc and 200 Whp must be no problem.
Maybe I'm gonna build it this winter.....
Ok, back to the States!
I build my B20 with a B18 crank, rods and Wiseco pistons. That gives the engine +-1934cc
It became a real torque monster in the little CRX. So even when its not quite a 2 liter it can be a realy strong engine.
The stock b20 sleeves are not that strong, but strong enough for a high revving NA engine.
But still, when i must do it again, i'l take my B18 and put in bigger benson sleeves. (85mm bore) That will give about 1980cc and 200 Whp must be no problem.
Maybe I'm gonna build it this winter.....
car weight is probably 1700-1800 pounds, only reving to 9200 right now. My new low pressure hytech header will be here friday im going back to the dyno to see what she'll do then. Ill keep postin.
wow real cool only your car is really light my car is much heavier. it would be around 2100 pounds.(950 kg) but the street tires which size were those ???
for some good times !!!!!!!!!!!
for some good times !!!!!!!!!!!
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