Blew Engine, Need Diagnosis.
Well, I have a turbo JDM ITR with a Drag 3 kit. Used Hondata S200B, RC 550's, etc. I boosted 6.5 psi, and got 250/183 on the dyno. Today, I went to start my car up, and it smoked alittle, but nothing unusual. Then when I started driving, smoke was pouring out of my muffler and starting to come from under my hood. I limped her home (about 2 miles), and popped the hood. Oil was all over my firewall. Oil looked like it spewed out of my breather on the valve cover. I then did a compression check and came up with these numbers:
- #1 130'ish
- #2 240
- #3 245
- #4 0
I am very sure that my ringlands went. I didn't notice any knocking or anything before I shut her down. Just wondering if you guys can assure me that my ringlands did infact go, and that there's not a hole in my block somewhere. If the ringlands just went, that's a heck of alot better than having a hole in the block.
- #1 130'ish
- #2 240
- #3 245
- #4 0
I am very sure that my ringlands went. I didn't notice any knocking or anything before I shut her down. Just wondering if you guys can assure me that my ringlands did infact go, and that there's not a hole in my block somewhere. If the ringlands just went, that's a heck of alot better than having a hole in the block.
sorry about your engine bro. anybody can tell you anything right now, but the ONLY way to REALLY know what is wrong with your engine is to break into it. its probably not what you wanna hear ( trust me i've been there) but its the truth. good luck gettin it back up man.
any coolant mixing with oil or white smoke? what color is the smoke from your tailpipe? , first i would do a leak down test and see what that shows just to make shure, then pull your head and inspect the damage, it sounds to me ringlands but check the easy things befor you rip in to her
prolly the rings. But like they said before. Check your coolant level as well. Could be your HG. But if it turned over, then more than likely there's no hole.
Yeah, it sucks, but it'll be bigger and better. Plus it's a good learning experience rebuilding an engine.
I'm pretty sure I didn't blow a hole in the block. My coolant level is normal, but white smoke was coming out of the tail pipe. I'm sure if there's a hole in the block, it would be knocking and I would be losing oil like mad.
Anyway, I'm gonna try to get the entire head off tomorrow, then remove the block this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted.
I'm pretty sure I didn't blow a hole in the block. My coolant level is normal, but white smoke was coming out of the tail pipe. I'm sure if there's a hole in the block, it would be knocking and I would be losing oil like mad.
Anyway, I'm gonna try to get the entire head off tomorrow, then remove the block this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted.
the only way i can think of that you got alot of oil on your fire wall and in your engine bay would be in fact a hole in the block. if it is on your firewall it could be in back so it would be hard to see. when your ringlands go, you dont spew oil into the engine bay. you will spew it out of the exhaust.
it may not be what you wanted to here, but i don't know of any other way it could have heppend.
unless the ringlands were soo bad that you got enouph blow by to pressureize the crank case and shoot the dipstick out of the block. or also the valve cover.
it may not be what you wanted to here, but i don't know of any other way it could have heppend.
unless the ringlands were soo bad that you got enouph blow by to pressureize the crank case and shoot the dipstick out of the block. or also the valve cover.
All the oil I saw was in-line with the breather nipple on the valve cover. Oil was on a couple of injectors, fuel filter, etc. There was also oil dripping from the nipple. I got under the car and there was no apparant hole in the block. I sure hope there isn't.
I swiped my finger on the inside of my exhaust tip, and it's oily.
Modified by zgrieger at 1:53 AM 7/16/2004
I swiped my finger on the inside of my exhaust tip, and it's oily.
Modified by zgrieger at 1:53 AM 7/16/2004
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100% sure it's the ringslands. I toasted my first motor the same way. Sometimes, the stock cast pistons just can't take the heat and pressure of even very low boost. I'll post pics of my piston damage at only 5 psi. I'm waiting on WTDR to send me my activation confirm.
i bet i can beat that... no fuel + 14 psi = this

I grenaded the **** out of my motor when my bosch fuel pump died.. haha.. all the ring lands were melted. thats #1 piston, #2 had a smaller hole in it and i guess it got better for 3 and 4. my machinist leaves it on his desk and everytime i go there he tells me that people look at it and ask wtf happened to it..

I grenaded the **** out of my motor when my bosch fuel pump died.. haha.. all the ring lands were melted. thats #1 piston, #2 had a smaller hole in it and i guess it got better for 3 and 4. my machinist leaves it on his desk and everytime i go there he tells me that people look at it and ask wtf happened to it..
Hella and LBR, your **** is pretty nasty. My motor ran rough at idle and power was down slightly at high RPM.
Zgrieger, your piston probably looks more like mine than theirs... ...at least I'd hope so...
Zgrieger, your piston probably looks more like mine than theirs... ...at least I'd hope so...
Well, I yanked the head off today. I was pretty relieved. The head wasn't damaged at all, none of the sleeves were cracked, and there weren't any holes in the block that I could see. Here are the pics of number 4 piston and cylinder. Number 1 piston looked like it was starting to melt alittle, but it's not worth posting the pics of #1.
THE PICS:


THE PICS:
Well my plans for the new block are:
- Bore out to 81.5mm and hone
- CP 81.5mm 9.8:1 pistons
- Eagle 900hp H-beam rods w/ARP 3/8" 2000 rod bolts
- ACL Bearings
- ARP headstuds
- New Honda Oil Pump
- All necessary seals, gaskets, o-rings, etc.
I want to put down 350hp with this setup.
- Bore out to 81.5mm and hone
- CP 81.5mm 9.8:1 pistons
- Eagle 900hp H-beam rods w/ARP 3/8" 2000 rod bolts
- ACL Bearings
- ARP headstuds
- New Honda Oil Pump
- All necessary seals, gaskets, o-rings, etc.
I want to put down 350hp with this setup.
When I pulled my head off, I looked at the bottom of the valves they looked okay. Then when I got to looking at them, the #4 cylinder where all the damaged occured, I looked at the exhaust valves for that cylinder. They look like they are burnt. They are rough, and don't look like all the other exhaust valves. Here's a pic, tell me what you think.
#4 Exhaust Valves:

Compare those to the #3 exhaust valves:

Again, tell me what you guys think. Do you think I need to replace those two exhaust valves? If so, do I just need to replace those two or do all the exhaust valves?
#4 Exhaust Valves:
Compare those to the #3 exhaust valves:
Again, tell me what you guys think. Do you think I need to replace those two exhaust valves? If so, do I just need to replace those two or do all the exhaust valves?
OUCH does not look good at all... i would just see if u can get the valves cleaned up and refinished..
just make sure they are straight and not bent...
u might even want to flow the head better for the boost since u are goin all out with the block and get valvetrain upgrade.....more flow=better boost......
just make sure they are straight and not bent...
u might even want to flow the head better for the boost since u are goin all out with the block and get valvetrain upgrade.....more flow=better boost......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedt3to4e »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OUCH does not look good at all... i would just see if u can get the valves cleaned up and refinished..
just make sure they are straight and not bent...
u might even want to flow the head better for the boost since u are goin all out with the block and get valvetrain upgrade.....more flow=better boost......</TD></TR></TABLE>
More flow=more power per pound of boost, not more boost. Boost is controlled by the wastegate regardless of valvetrain.
Just get stainless steel valves, they don't burn as easily. Going oversized will yield more power over stock sized valves.
just make sure they are straight and not bent...
u might even want to flow the head better for the boost since u are goin all out with the block and get valvetrain upgrade.....more flow=better boost......</TD></TR></TABLE>
More flow=more power per pound of boost, not more boost. Boost is controlled by the wastegate regardless of valvetrain.
Just get stainless steel valves, they don't burn as easily. Going oversized will yield more power over stock sized valves.
Not bad, easy enough to fix...You'll be fine with what your'e doing...Valves look good...Just refresh the head with new valve seals/resuface/cleaning and do what you are gonna do with the block...Slap on a stock headgasket and torque down the ARP Studs...Check out the turbo for any damage and invest in a catch can...
Okay, here's what I'm going to have done to my head/block by a local machine shop. If some of this stuff isn't necessary, let me know. Also, if I left some things out, let me know also.
- Clean Head
- Pressure Test the head
- Bore Block .5mm over
- Hot Tank block
- Check Crankshaft
- Clean Head
- Pressure Test the head
- Bore Block .5mm over
- Hot Tank block
- Check Crankshaft
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