Dahm ARP head stud broke Fuckin threads stretched and broke
Hey guys torqued my head stud to 75 ft lbs and one the threads stretched and broke. Now i got to buy a new set of ARP's and head gasket. Im going to call ARP and see what they say.
When i was torquing the one stud the wrnech click but the stud still moves i was like WTF took the stud out check the stud for cracks not one. So reinstalled it then when i went to torque it. The stud kept going and then SNAPP the ****** broke.
When i was torquing the one stud the wrnech click but the stud still moves i was like WTF took the stud out check the stud for cracks not one. So reinstalled it then when i went to torque it. The stud kept going and then SNAPP the ****** broke.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D series is 65-70 ft lbs **** when i torque them to 70ft lbs i blow head gaskets at 75 not one prob</TD></TR></TABLE>
FJT is right. It is SUPPOSE to be 60 ft lbs. It says on the sheet you get with them. Calling them will get the same answer. Remember, we have 10 mm studs where B series get 12mm studs.
Sorry to hear. You will get it fixed though.
FJT is right. It is SUPPOSE to be 60 ft lbs. It says on the sheet you get with them. Calling them will get the same answer. Remember, we have 10 mm studs where B series get 12mm studs.
Sorry to hear. You will get it fixed though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">FJT is right. It is SUPPOSE to be 60 ft lbs. It says on the sheet you get with them. Calling them will get the same answer. Remember, we have 10 mm studs where B series get 12mm studs.
Sorry to hear. You will get it fixed though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I believe that if you Over toque them it can cause the screw hole in the block to brake, as to warp the bottom of it and brake...so not only u take the chances of braking the ARP but also of warping the block..
If you broke head gaskets with the ARP's then i dont think its the studs but an uneven surface by either the head or the Block..Check if theyre 100% straight cause if you torque ARP's to specs then there's no reason for blowing HG's
I was blowing HG too and it was because the Block was not 100% straight..Everytime i sent the head to a Machine shop to be made straight but i forgot about the block..It wasnt till i sent both to be resurfaced that i stopped blowing HG's
Sorry to hear. You will get it fixed though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I believe that if you Over toque them it can cause the screw hole in the block to brake, as to warp the bottom of it and brake...so not only u take the chances of braking the ARP but also of warping the block..
If you broke head gaskets with the ARP's then i dont think its the studs but an uneven surface by either the head or the Block..Check if theyre 100% straight cause if you torque ARP's to specs then there's no reason for blowing HG's
I was blowing HG too and it was because the Block was not 100% straight..Everytime i sent the head to a Machine shop to be made straight but i forgot about the block..It wasnt till i sent both to be resurfaced that i stopped blowing HG's
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i had the same thing happen to one of my studs.i've reused the studs about 5 times already.
i replaced the one that broke and i've never had any problems since. *knocks on wood*
i replaced the one that broke and i've never had any problems since. *knocks on wood*
OK the block is 100% within tolarences along with the head they were done properly.
The stud broke at the threads ive seen ARP'S brake but not at the thread.
Oh well im going to reinstall it at 70 ft lbs and if it pops a head gasket the car is gettin parked for the year
The stud broke at the threads ive seen ARP'S brake but not at the thread.
Oh well im going to reinstall it at 70 ft lbs and if it pops a head gasket the car is gettin parked for the year
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ladysman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
FJT is right. It is SUPPOSE to be 60 ft lbs. It says on the sheet you get with them. Calling them will get the same answer. Remember, we have 10 mm studs where B series get 12mm studs.
Sorry to hear. You will get it fixed though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right they are suppose to be 60 ft lbs. I went to about 65 ft lbs on mine. They made a little creeking noise when I went past 60, scared the hell out of me, but they seemed fine.
FJT is right. It is SUPPOSE to be 60 ft lbs. It says on the sheet you get with them. Calling them will get the same answer. Remember, we have 10 mm studs where B series get 12mm studs.
Sorry to hear. You will get it fixed though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Right they are suppose to be 60 ft lbs. I went to about 65 ft lbs on mine. They made a little creeking noise when I went past 60, scared the hell out of me, but they seemed fine.
whoa whoa whoa... I was told by a few different people that the STUDS go in just over hand tight (hand tighten, then about 1/2 turn with an allen wrench, and then the NUTS should be torqued to 65-70lbs. That way, when you tighten the nuts, it pulls up on the studs against the threads.
Welll i got no ARP's yet ****
Im going to throw the the old ARPS and a stock stud and copper spray the head gasket for the weekend shitty
Im going to throw the the old ARPS and a stock stud and copper spray the head gasket for the weekend shitty
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys torqued my head stud to 75 ft lbs and one the threads stretched and broke. Now i got to buy a new set of ARP's and head gasket. Im going to call ARP and see what they say.
When i was torquing the one stud the wrnech click but the stud still moves i was like WTF took the stud out check the stud for cracks not one. So reinstalled it then when i went to torque it. The stud kept going and then SNAPP the ****** broke.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You aren't torquing the studs are you? I'm hoping you mean you were torquing the nut on the top of the stud.
When i was torquing the one stud the wrnech click but the stud still moves i was like WTF took the stud out check the stud for cracks not one. So reinstalled it then when i went to torque it. The stud kept going and then SNAPP the ****** broke.
</TD></TR></TABLE>You aren't torquing the studs are you? I'm hoping you mean you were torquing the nut on the top of the stud.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dustin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You aren't torquing the studs are you? I'm hoping you mean you were torquing the nut on the top of the stud.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh good.. i was right..
You aren't torquing the studs are you? I'm hoping you mean you were torquing the nut on the top of the stud.</TD></TR></TABLE>
oh good.. i was right..
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