ATS*Mark

sup guys , im installing my ARP head studs on my 00 ex and it says on the box that torque values are just a recomendation based on the size of the stud/bolts...not the manufacturers recomended value. my question is , do i just go by the honda manual or do i crank them more , and do i need to torque the studs down before i put the head on then torque the head??????
thanks in advance for your help

9200RPM

I have a b16 and when i put my motor together i put the studs in hand tight and have had no probs. This also goes for my friend with a turbo LS pushing over 20 psi. However i work with a guy who torqued his down on a d series motor and is on his 3rd head gasket.

ATS*Mark

what did you torque the bolts down after u put the head on ??? just stock/

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what did you torque the bolts down after u put the head on ??? just stock/</TD></TR></TABLE>

Torque them 5 lbs over stock to prevent head warping from to much torque.

JDMCRX

iTrader: (2)

I did mine to the stock specs and 5ft lbs more works real good

30psi Teg

I put the studs in hand tight into the block, just make sure they are bottomed out in the hole. Then I torque to ARP recommended torque which is like 73ft/lbs for the b series. I have had no problem with head warpage or anything of that nature.

ATS*Mark

looks like ill just hand tighten them into the block and make sure they go all the way down.....then just torque them down 5 lbs over....

this will make it alot easier to do the headgasket swap as i wont have to take the head completly off and torque the studs to the block before i put the head on

ladysman

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 30psi Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I put the studs in hand tight into the block, just make sure they are bottomed out in the hole. Then I torque to ARP recommended torque which is like 73ft/lbs for the b series. I have had no problem with head warpage or anything of that nature.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ARP B series studs are bigger than D's.

Hella,
5 over is fine. This is what Earl recommends as well as Endyn.

ATS*Mark

cool thanks

ATS*Mark

so is it cool if i hand tighten the studs with the head on then torque the bolts down ???

B18EG6

I double nutted the stud and torqued it down to like 15 ft lbs, or 22 or somethin... i forgot. Then I torques the nuts down to spes, in three stages of tightening

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

this will make it alot easier to do the headgasket swap as i wont have to take the head completly off and torque the studs to the block before i put the head on </TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you do, just unbolt the head and slide in a new gasket? How do you clean it throughly? I can't imagine doing a good job without taking the head completely off.

SPOON_BeIgHtEeNsEe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so is it cool if i hand tighten the studs with the head on then torque the bolts down ???</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would like to know this also?

ATS*Mark

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what do you do, just unbolt the head and slide in a new gasket? How do you clean it throughly? I can't imagine doing a good job without taking the head completely off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

clean what????

danl

Its really not an aspect of how much torque because that varies with so many aspects. The goal is to tension the bolts to 75% of their yield strength. With that in mind you absoutley should follow the directions that ARP, the frekkin people who make bolts for a living have to say. For the d16z6 bolts they recommend 60 foot lbs WHEN USING THE ARP LUBE.

If you really want to do it right you should use a stretch gauge to yield the bolts.

Their is no set toroque value that works for all motors. The cross sectional average area of the bolt and the pitch of the threads (coarse or fine) will determine how many foot lbs of torque with a lubricant of a known K value will provide the desired amount of tension.

For those interested the formula is: T=KDP

WHere: T= Torque; K is the lubrication constant (0.15 for motor oil or 0.20 with no lubricaion), D is the diameter of the bolt (you'll need a textbook to look this up for the varias SAE and Metric bolts), and P is the axial load. The units for the axial load are those that you are left with that didn't cancel out. Should be foot-lbs or in-lbs.

Anyways, I don't know what the K value of the ARP lube is and I'm not so sure ARP is willing to tell you. However I know that it is less than that of motor oil or regullar cutting fluid. That is, its more "slipperly".

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

clean what????</TD></TR></TABLE>

clean the mating surfaces of the head and block so it wont leak.

ATS*Mark

ya i can do that without taking the head completly off tho

BoRiCuA

Few questions i have a d16z6 so my torque on the ARP head studs should be 60 ft. lbs Correct? what if i have JDM ZC pistons is torque the same for an engine with compression of 12:3 as opposed to 9:8 i believe stock d16z6? also guys i had a problem with my last stud not going down all the way, i looked down the hole and it seems to have buildup and a little dirt on the block threads so now what do i do should i force it down when it was suppose to be hand tight or should i just take it to get retapped?

servion

when i installed arp's on my z6, i called arp.
they said 60 lbs with moly lube and 70 with 30w oil

BoRiCuA

Is that with high compression pistons?

pornstarSR

do a 2 stage torque down on the head...

half the final ftlbs.... then the final stock(+5) ftlbs

D-Man

I do my D ARPs in 3 stages..
1...15lbs
2...30lbs
3...62lbs

pornstarSR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D-Man &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I do my D ARPs in 3 stages..
1...15lbs
2...30lbs
3...62lbs</TD></TR></TABLE>

there you goo...

ATS*Mark

wow back from the dead

pornstarSR

woooopssss