while my downpipe is off at the shop getting repaired, i decided to change the oil and check the plugs on the car.. im putting 10w-30 synthetic oil in this time as i read was better then 5w-30 for the engine w/ the turbo and all the heat it creates.

someone take a look at these plugs and tell me what you think of them.. they had a brownish color to them almost and some white.. i know white is lean but it cant be running that lean w/ the 440s and the vafc hack set at -30%..

i was driving the car for about 2 hours the day the downpipe broke the rest, it was back firing and not running the great w/ no back pressure.. could driving that little bit done that much to the plugs? even if these do look good i still ordered a set of ngk bkr7e plugs.. i should gap these plugs to about .028-.035 correct??? i know i need to play w/ the gap to get the best out of them..




plus are in order of 1-2-3-4 starting at the left of the picture

cynlinders 1 and 4 look a little lean dont they??

thanks everyone

 

plugs 2 and 3 are def rich . . . plugs 1 & 4 are def. leaner then 2 & 3 but the tanish color shows that they are running stoich 14:1

I personally always wondered how to fix things if 1 or 2 cylinders is running richer or leaner then the other. it could be that those 2 injectors (1 & 4) are just a little dirty? Run some injectors cleaner through them, and if you have the cash you can always have them sent away to get flow tested and cleaned.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec92Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plugs 2 and 3 are def rich . . . plugs 1 & 4 are def. leaner then 2 & 3 but the tanish color shows that they are running stoich 14:1

I personally always wondered how to fix things if 1 or 2 cylinders is running richer or leaner then the other. it could be that those 2 injectors (1 & 4) are just a little dirty? Run some injectors cleaner through them, and if you have the cash you can always have them sent away to get flow tested and cleaned. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks.. isnt stoich ok for them?? and ill get some injector cleaner in the tank today.. the injectors are new from RC and they have less then 5000k miles on them.. i also randomly get CEL 43 which is fuel supply system, and when i get that sometimes the fuel pump doesnt prime correctly or turn on.. i can keep trying or hit the fuel pump and move the ecu and it starts better sometimes.. im almost positive its a wire that has come loose somewhere, but im uncertain where to look.

*edit.. and when the CEL 43 is on i will notice a little bit of smoke from under the hood, ill turn the car off, restart it and it is fine afterwards ( i think this has to do w/ the plugs being bad) any ideas on what to do to fix it? ive been told to replace the o2 sensor but i think its wiring related

 

2 and 3 are running a little rich, although without reading a wideband its hard to tell how rich. You need to get a wideband on it, try playing with the gap a little on 2 and 3. You may find that you'll need to take fuel out or even have to add fuel, but from looking at the plugs you need to get a wideband on it.

For a daily driven car it should be around 12:1

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naterror &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2 and 3 are running a little rich, although without reading a wideband its hard to tell how rich. You need to get a wideband on it, try playing with the gap a little on 2 and 3. You may find that you'll need to take fuel out or even have to add fuel, but from looking at the plugs you need to get a wideband on it.

For a daily driven car it should be around 12:1</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would rather have it running rich then lean so i dont detinate.. the plugs were gapped at .28 or .028 whatever it is.. lol

would driving the car w/ the downpipe cracked very badly like it was, causing the car to hesitate, and backfire, cause 1 and 4 to go bad like that???

 

i know my car ran kinda shitty on open downpipe. It also caused wild boost spikes that caused me to blow my headgasket

 

don't want to jinz myself *knocks on wood* I use to get cel 43 all the time, and could never figure out what it was, but it finally just went awa after the many times that I tok the motor a part etc . . . . Having the plugs run stoich is so so I guess. People say for boosted cars that is way to lean, but if your car was backfiring and what not that might be the cause for those 2 plugs looking the way that they do. It could also maybe be those 2 spark plug wires are going bad, or maybe even a timing issue.

How does the car feel throughout boost? Does it hesitate, or cutout or anything, or is it 100% smooth entering boost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vtec92Civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How does the car feel throughout boost? Does it hesitate, or cutout or anything, or is it 100% smooth entering boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i did have a kenji spec itr chipped p28 ecu running the car for a couple weeks, that came out of an old car that i sold that i barrowed from the girl i sold it to.. that ecu ran really rich in my old car and i could tell that the current car seemed to run better than it did using a stock p72 ecu.. im using a stock obd1 p72 ecu on a 2.0 b18c1 motor, stock head, and i also have a skunk2 IM so im thinking maybe a p30 ecu might be worth a shot cause i dont have the correct IM for the ecu i currently have..

it was smoother going into boost w/ the chipped p28 then it is w/ the p72.. i seems to hesistate at about 4k rpms, but once its past that it flies to redline after vtec enguages.. what kind of adjustments should i do to the vafc using the stock p72 for smoother boost transistions? or what else can do to acheive this? thanks