I just installed my t3 turbo on my integra and it only boost 2psi, in every gear even at high rpms. Any idea what it is? The car feels like its being held back and restricted, like the turbo shaft isn't spinning, although I did spin the shaft and it feels like its spinning freely.

I am running a t3 63/60 with a chipped obd1 ecu with 450cc dsm injectors and 255 walbro. I have a 1g dsm bov and 2.5" dp.
I hooked up my bov by teeing into the line between the intake manifold and pcv valve. All other vac lines are in and have been checked aswell...

Any ideas? It doesn't sound like a boost leak though, I guess I'll pull off the turbo and take a look to make sure the shaft is spinning free. I did have to move the stock wastegate over by making a new bracket, but I was sure to still have the arm straight with the same pressure on it. The spring is on the wastegate arm with a coter pin and there is tension there keeping it closed..... help...

 

first way would be to check the system for leaks. easiest way i can think of is pressurizing the system with either ends sealed at a time and apply pressure from a compressor. next is somehow making an indicator to see if the wastegate is functioning properly, in your case, if the swingvalve is sealing and moving as it should only at the preset pressure. good luck.

 

restrictive intake?

 

The wastegate has been wired shut without any difference. I suspect the problem may be a rubbing turbine because the turbo had to be separated in order to clock it. Cold it spins freely by hand but it won't spin at idle. It's actually fairly stiff. There isn't any shaft play.

Is there a correct way to ensure the CHRA is tightened perfectly straight? I may have to pull the turbo off completely and wire wheel the exhaust side and CHRA.

-Michael

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hackish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The wastegate has been wired shut without any difference. I suspect the problem may be a rubbing turbine because the turbo had to be separated in order to clock it. Cold it spins freely by hand but it won't spin at idle. It's actually fairly stiff. There isn't any shaft play.

Is there a correct way to ensure the CHRA is tightened perfectly straight? I may have to pull the turbo off completely and wire wheel the exhaust side and CHRA.

-Michael</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya that doesnt make sense. i remember someone saying at idle its supposed to spin freely and after shutdown theres so little resistance it continues to spin for a while. not sure if size is a factor but i would take it apart regardless.

 

My 323GTX doesn't spin at idle either. My STi with a fully BB turbo did. An H22 I was working on this weekend with a CT26 turbo could be heard spinning for a few seconds after shutdown. Odd...

 

Correction - I checked it quickly and at idle the turbo on the GTX spins (not very fast though).

 

have u checked that bov of yours? if its not strong enough ull get that boost leak, and i know u said u upgraded ur fuel butare u running rich or lean? last but least where do u have ur map sensor at? is it in the throttle body like stock or do u have a plastic elbow and vacum line hook to the map sensor hole if its the last option the elbow may be bottoming out in the hole resulting in the map not getting a readin which will alter the fuel which will cause ur turbo to act stupid

 

BOV isn't really leaking. It's running a PSItuned ECU. The AFR at atmospheric is about 13.5 and it's set to run about 11.5 under boost so as it builds to the mightly 2PSI you start seeing the AFRs dropping. The boost measurements are based off a mechanical boost gauge which is hooked up correctly. Besides, if it making 5-7PSI it would be making more power!

-Michael