Ran into a problem DA GSR ABS MC + BOOSTER swap on 89 crx si HELP!
I just got my 93 DA master cylinder and booster in today and I decided to swap it all out thinking everything would bolt up. I also swapped out the proportioning valve with a 4040 one to accomodate the 99 si rear brakes I have on the car. So I changed the prop valve and that went in with no problem. I then took out the old master and booster and swapped it with the teg one, wow what a bitch to get to fit in there. I had to tilt the engine back some to get the booster to go in. Anyway eventually that went in, hooked up all the lines and what do you know, one of the brake line fittings that go on the master cylinder dont fit!
To the right is the original size fitting that is on the car. The one on the left is the size fitting that came with the master cylinder "snipped".

Now I am stuck...
I was thinking if I should cut the end of the original brake line and swap out the fittings with the teg one that I have. But how would I properly seal the fitting on the line so it doesnt leak with all the pressure and heat that goes thru those lines? Its kind of a tight spot to work in to be cutting lines and using flaring tools. Anybody got any ideas?
To the right is the original size fitting that is on the car. The one on the left is the size fitting that came with the master cylinder "snipped".
Now I am stuck...
I was thinking if I should cut the end of the original brake line and swap out the fittings with the teg one that I have. But how would I properly seal the fitting on the line so it doesnt leak with all the pressure and heat that goes thru those lines? Its kind of a tight spot to work in to be cutting lines and using flaring tools. Anybody got any ideas?
you need to get a flare tool. cut the stock line, slide the larger fitting over the stock line, flare it (I suggest practicing flaring on an extra brake line) and then slide the fitting up and bolt her on.
Side to side comparison with the DA non abs 40/40 prop valve to the left and the 89 crx si 17/25 prop valve to the right. Just incase any of you were wondering if it all bolted in without worrying about switching brackets or whatever.
We'll I was just about to get a DA master cylinder and booster but now that I see your proplem I might just stick with my 4040 prop valve only. I know people have used the DA MC's on their ef's, i would like to know what you did about the fittings as well.
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that was an abs master cylinder and booster, I used a prop valve from a non abs 90-93 teg rs. I got to flare the line and bleed the brakes and now the brakes work PERFECT! I made a big deal about something soo small, flaring the line was the easy part. I'll post some pics of the tools i used.
First I carefully bent the old brake fitting up, so i can slide the original fitting back some, so I can cut it.
This what I used to cut it:

After that, I just slid the old fitting off, and slid the new on on the line and brought out the flaring tool.
This is what the flaring tool looks like, I got mine at autozone for $9 I think it was made by performance tools

Make sure you bend the line upwards so its alot easier to access, also if you have an extra line practice on it. The master cylinder I got luckily came with some brake lines still attached to the master so I used that to practice flaring the line.
Then I filled that sucker up with some
Bleed the brakes good till it changed color to the new fluid, starting from the passenger rear, then passenger front, drivers rear, then passenger front and works perfectly.
HTH
This what I used to cut it:

After that, I just slid the old fitting off, and slid the new on on the line and brought out the flaring tool.
This is what the flaring tool looks like, I got mine at autozone for $9 I think it was made by performance tools

Make sure you bend the line upwards so its alot easier to access, also if you have an extra line practice on it. The master cylinder I got luckily came with some brake lines still attached to the master so I used that to practice flaring the line.
Then I filled that sucker up with some

Bleed the brakes good till it changed color to the new fluid, starting from the passenger rear, then passenger front, drivers rear, then passenger front and works perfectly.
HTH
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