LSej1

I am putting in a 1" master cylinder but one of the brake line ends is too small and doesnt fit in to the one side of the MC. Do i need to buy a new hard brake line that does from the MC tothe Prop valve or is there a fitting i can buy that will fit it....I went to lowes and looked for a fitting but i couldnt find one with the correct threading....

LSej1

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B18EG6

I don't know much about different master cylinders, but when I did my rear disc swap I used a 15/16" MC from an old civic wagon (just bought it new from Honda) and the fittings were the same; 10x1.0mm flare fittings.

I would doubt there is enough room to cut the pipe and re-flare it with a newer larger fitting on there - so you would need to bend one yourself with the smaller fitting going to the prop valve and larger to the MC. Perhaps you could consider running a 15/16" MC?

Targa250R

Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?

LSej1

Back on topic...anyone have a real answer instead of a question?

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSej1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Back on topic...anyone have a real answer instead of a question?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have all the answers, but apparently you aren't interested in listening, otherwise you'd provide the information I need to help you.

LSej1

i cut the hard brake line and re-flared it...worked perfectly...now...i am having a hell of a time removing a couple of the hard lines from my stock 3030 prop valve so i can install the 4040 prop valve...now...do i have to use the 4040? will it make much of a difference with the 4040 instead of the 3030

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What front brakes are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What front brakes are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What front brakes are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What front brakes are you using?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LSej1

STOCK

LSej1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you need a 1" master cylinder? What front brakes are you using?

And why are you changing the master cylinder for a rear disc conversion?</TD></TR></TABLE>

STOCK

Targa250R

The 4040 proportioning valve isn't correct for your stock 16CL14VN front calipers combined with 7CLP13S rears. Neither is the 3030. The only valve that works for that combo is from a '94 del Sol VTEC, and have fun finding one of those.

You aren't going to like that 1" master cylinder with those front calipers either. It's going to be difficult to modulate and extremely easy to lock up. No good.

Your best bet is to pick up a pair of 17CL14VN front calipers from a '94-01 Integra, which have larger pistons than the 16CL14VNs but are still intended for 10.3" rotors. Then you can use the 4040 valve (which is intended for 17CL14VN fronts and 7CLP13S rears) and the 1" MC will be a bit easier to modulate - though still not as good a match as a 15/16" piece. Once that's all complete, you'll basically have the equivalent of a '94-01 Integra RS brake system.

Now if you had answered the questions I asked the first time instead of dickering around, I could have told you all of this hours ago.

newby_j

I have a 7/8ths and 03 cl calipers and it is easy to lock up the fronts. using that m/c is dangerous on stock brakes imo

pdiggitydogg

ditto...er...tritto?
Tiny front calipers + 1" mc = bad idea

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ditto...er...tritto?
Tiny front calipers + 1" mc = bad idea</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't recommend 1" MCs for anything other than 17CL14VNs with ABS or 17CL15VNs. A non-ABS car with 17CL14VNs should be using a 15/16" MC. That's the way Honda equipped them, and it works great.

16CL14VN front calipers can be used with either a 7/8" or a 15/16".

Rear calipers vs. wheel cylinders really have no bearing on master cylinder size, because they both take about the same amount of fluid to move. Thus, a master cylinder upsize is pointless for a rear disc conversion.

LSej1

There isnt much i can do now with this master cylinder or the prop valve. It is all in and done...well have to see how it works out...I wish someone would have told me this three months ago when i purcased all the parts. I asked about 9x on here is i needed the MC and Prop valve and everyone was like yeah yeah bc if not it wont "feel" like disk brakes and blah blah blah...heres one of the threads. Oh well...it is a project car so its not a big deal

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2275002
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2286401

Targa250R

Yeah, shouldn't have listened to that idiot.

I could have pointed you toward a '90-91 Civic EX master cylinder, which is 15/16" and will bolt up to your stock brake booster and lines, so you wouldn't have had to change boosters or reflare one line with a 12mm fitting.

Like I said, use the 4040 proportioning valve and pick up a pair of 17CL14VN front calipers from an Integra - the larger pistons will help offset the big master cylinder.

LSej1

i got everything bolted up and running...bled the brake lines but they still feel a bit "mooshy" and very soft. I have to head off to work so i will have to work on it next weekend. I didnt notice any air coming from any lines but there has to still be air in there somewhere.


Modified by LSej1 at 8:37 PM 5/5/2008

Targa250R

Did you bleed them in the correct order? PR -&gt; DF -&gt; DR -&gt; PF ?

Also, did you bench-bleed the MC before connecting the lines? If not, it will take a LONG time to get all the air purged out of the system. Check to make sure you didn't double up the gasket between the MC and the booster as well - old ones tend to stick to the booster and go unnoticed. I know I've done it myself along with a few others on here.

LSej1

I have the brake booster that came with the 1" MC so the gaskets arent doubled...no i didnt bench bleed the MC...how do i do so? ( i am not taking off all the lines again that was a b!tch to get them back on) i think i bled them PR DR PF DF....i dont remember i was pumping the brakes Ill rebleed them this weekend...i work third shift so i sleep and take care of other business during the day...Ill keep you posted...Thanks for your help

UPDATE: I read up on bench bleeding...i read something about this in one of those "self bleeding" kits you can buy from auto zone. So i just have to remove the two brake lines from the MC right?
Also do i need to remove the MC again from the car to do this? BC if so i am going to have to stick with traditional bleeding until i get a stiff pedal...I dont own a bench or a vise to hold the MC...



Modified by LSej1 at 7:55 AM 5/6/2008