I had a few other posts in here but now I have back traced the problems.

the wastegate is fine and I checked it for leaks...none.

i still am missing 2 out of the 5 bolts on my downpipe, which creates a small leak around the wastegate and downpipe flange



but this isnt causing the problem.


While under the hood i start on the throttle, the compressor wheels starts spinning.....getting faster.....and then i see it starts to shake from side to side..but I dont hear and scraping or metal on metal then.....CLICK....the compressor wheel slows down in about 2 seconds to a stop.

the seals are fine on the turbo and it really didnt do this the first time it was installed.

The only things i did wrong was I primed the engine with oil but i didnt disconnect the oil feed line from the turbo...could it be lacking oil and the bearings seize?

what causes this loud click and then the turbo stops spinning???

 

bump for help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yusoslo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
it starts to shake from side to side..but I dont hear and scraping or metal on metal then.....CLICK....the compressor wheel slows down in about 2 seconds to a stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you SURE oil is getting to the turbo? Sounds like there's no lube at all. How did you tap the oil line? -4 AN line? restrictor fitting?

Vibrating turbo is VERY bad. If you can push the turbine in and out, the seals are bad. There should be a slight (like 1/16" or so) side to side movement if you have standard bushing bearing.

Good Luck...
Sean

 

The turbo is trash......... trust me, i work partime at a turbo exchange, but i could of told you that regaurdless....... anytime a turbo spins and stops, (while being used in a car) its FU**ED.......... there should be ZERO shaft play in a properly working turbo.

 

maybe the compressor wheel is loose on the shaft.

ZERO shaft play? Every usable turbo I have ever picked up has a little bit of side to side play and no end play. Remind me not to buy a turbo from the shop you work at.

 

see i think the turbo may not be getting oil.

but it doesnt make any weird noises at all.

should I disconnect the feed line and dry crank it, or remove the drain line and dry crank it. I primed the turbo by connecting the lines and doing 4 cranks without the ignition, what if there was air in the line would that have cause a loss of oil in the turbo?

And even if I get the oil line primed again I put 100miles on it, the turbos fucked anyway right?

the line is from STAN and i dont have a restrictor on it or anything.

 

The turbo is fucked. End of story.

 

but what causes it to do this?

and by fucked, it can be rebuilt right?

 

your poor turbo . I hope you get this all worked out soon man.

 

want to buy a turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolinlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there should be ZERO shaft play in a properly working turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your wrong sir.

Have you seen a GT series turbo?? Brand new out of the box there is shaft play.

Anyways back to the thread.

Damn bro you got some bad luck with your car. Anytime if you can see a turbo compressor wheel go from side to side the blades are fucked. So time to get a new turbo all together.

It's sometimes cheaper, cause a friend of mine took his turbo to get it rebuilt off his RB26. The rebuild place said $600.00, that is more then a new turbo from cheapturbo.com.

Hey man sorry to hear this after your last problem with the wastegate.

 

OT a little bit but why is your wastegate off your down pipe??? that doesnt help anything? its supposed to be PRE TURBO meaning on the manifold before the turbo somewhere not POST TURBO or after the turbo.... get that fixed as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NextelBuddy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OT a little bit but why is your wastegate off your down pipe??? that doesnt help anything? its supposed to be PRE TURBO meaning on the manifold before the turbo somewhere not POST TURBO or after the turbo.... get that fixed as well</TD></TR></TABLE>

On a 5 bolt housing with an internal WG option, that pipe is connected to the hole where your internal gate/flapper would go, so it's fine to have the external WG that way.

 

i guess that would be ok . i have never seen anything like that before.

 

yea he is running a seperate pipe from the downpipe to the external wastegate. It looks connected to it, but its not.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolinlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The turbo is trash......... trust me, i work partime at a turbo exchange, but i could of told you that regaurdless....... anytime a turbo spins and stops, (while being used in a car) its FU**ED.......... there should be ZERO shaft play in a properly working turbo.</TD></TR></TABLE>

WRONG My turbo when I first put it on would spin at idle and then after about 20 seconds stop, and my turbo is not fucked. my turbo was brand spanking new in the box and the reason it did that was to get broken in. After going for a drive around the block like a HT member told me to do it was perfectly good

If you want to check to see if oil is making it through your turbo start the car let it idle for a little bit, turn it off, and pull off the oil return line or hose, and if there is oil in there then you know your turbo is getting oil.

 

yipeeee

Someone who was helping me decided to hook the oil feed line to the distribution block with a solid plug!!!!!

the only oil the turbo saw was that in the line that we primed.

so the big question is........where can I order new bearings for my turbo? I am going to mic it and find out the clearances.

 

Dude that MF owe you a new turbo.

That is fucked up when someone give you the wrong info on something, later to find out your car is fucked.

I say beat down.

 

This is exactly why I dont let any of my friends touch my car except for one that I trust. Everyone wants to help, no one knows how to. **** gets broken and who pays for it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is exactly why I dont let any of my friends touch my car except for one that I trust. Everyone wants to help, no one knows how to. **** gets broken and who pays for it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.... everyone wants to be mechanic, but nobody wants to take the time to learn.

you will prolly have to rebuid it ... send it to a professional unless u want to buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself

 

Even if the turbo is rebuildable you would still have to bring it back to the turbo place to get the cartage(center section with the compressor wheel and turbine shaft) rebalanced. very important.

It should be like $70 bux to balance it.

A normal rebuild with 270 degree bearings for a garret T3 is like $90 bux.

Check your compressor wheel and turbine wheel first, if you see any signs of either touching their housings then its a good guess that it's no good.

 

ok the turbo compressor wheel has touched the housing a few times, but there are no cracks or chips on the wheel. The turbo now spins freely but i wont take the car past 3800 rpms under very light throttle becuase I do not want the turbo to spool too much.

ARe you saying that if the oil seals are fine and the compressor wheel is fine than it will only cost me 90 bucks to have the bearings put in?

or 90 bucks for bearings.....70 for balancing......etc etc


down2turbo on ebay has a t3 60 trim for 350 remanufactured.......i dont wanna buy a whole new turbo....mine looks fine just the bearings are fucked.

 

That sir is just for the parts.

for a good rebuild for that turbo if the wheels are in perfect condition then it would be like $300 bux.

It's up to you whether to think it's worth it or not. Also you must not drive the car with no oil going to the turbo. If you do they you will overheat the turbine shaft causing the turbo to be unrebuildable.(is this a word??)

Always have the turbo examined first before you say yes or no to a rebuild.

Well you know what I mean.

 

i drove the turbo for 50 miles with no oil. at low rpms and marginal oil left in the line...but no line pressure for 50 miles.


now the turbo still spools and doesnt make any ill noises after the oil was flowing again