Hondata quirk.. situation inside.
Ok, first off all, somebody tell me EXACTLY what is supposed to happen if you disconnect the interface box (blue box) while your car is running? My understanding was that the car should immediatley go into limp mode (4k rpm limiter), however I realized in fiddling with my bluebox that my car runs just the same with the interface box disconnected as with it connected........ odd?
Now if you're asking why I disconnected it to begin with, well that's a good question, here's the answer. I noticed latley that something about the car was different. Now remember, since day 1 of the Hondata install, I've had a CEL and no code when I jump the service plug. I've been after SFP to ask Frank what's going on, but because the car has been running fine, I haven't really pressed the issue. Well as of now, I think I'm going to have to really get after him because the car isn't driving quite 'right' anymore. Because Frank disables closed loop like so many others who tune Hondata, the A/F gauge was always pegged rich, I mean ALWAYS. Now I know how notoriously inaccurate those things are and I don't place alot of faith in them anyays, but...... I noticed a rather unusual trend the past few days. As I drive, the A/F gauge will slowly work it's way lean, all the way lean to the point where it will only flicker the last red led on occasion.
Again I'm aware of the inacuracy of the gauge, but what really got my attention is that while this happend, the car lost power. As I roll into the throttle I notice immediatley that the car, wastegate screaming and all, simply isn't pulling at all, just a very loud strain while the turbo huff's away. So.. has anybody a clue? Anything even remotley similar happen to anybody with Hondata? Another thing I noticed is that occasionaly, the little red light inside the Hondata unit will go off for a moment and then turn back on as if it wasn't geting power. The 4-pin connector is solidly in there so It's not that. Any ideas would be greatly apprieciated!!!!!
Now if you're asking why I disconnected it to begin with, well that's a good question, here's the answer. I noticed latley that something about the car was different. Now remember, since day 1 of the Hondata install, I've had a CEL and no code when I jump the service plug. I've been after SFP to ask Frank what's going on, but because the car has been running fine, I haven't really pressed the issue. Well as of now, I think I'm going to have to really get after him because the car isn't driving quite 'right' anymore. Because Frank disables closed loop like so many others who tune Hondata, the A/F gauge was always pegged rich, I mean ALWAYS. Now I know how notoriously inaccurate those things are and I don't place alot of faith in them anyays, but...... I noticed a rather unusual trend the past few days. As I drive, the A/F gauge will slowly work it's way lean, all the way lean to the point where it will only flicker the last red led on occasion.
Again I'm aware of the inacuracy of the gauge, but what really got my attention is that while this happend, the car lost power. As I roll into the throttle I notice immediatley that the car, wastegate screaming and all, simply isn't pulling at all, just a very loud strain while the turbo huff's away. So.. has anybody a clue? Anything even remotley similar happen to anybody with Hondata? Another thing I noticed is that occasionaly, the little red light inside the Hondata unit will go off for a moment and then turn back on as if it wasn't geting power. The 4-pin connector is solidly in there so It's not that. Any ideas would be greatly apprieciated!!!!!
Dave, Sorry for not responding on your other post. My focus has been on my car and not my wife's with the Hondata. She hasn't experienced the Cell after my last post. I don't know what caused the issue, but after playing with the blue box and dicking with the Data-logging the problem has not returned. The car is still running really rich compared to the perfect tune that it originally received and nothing has been changed on the car. The tuner that tuned your setup did not offer to data log it for you now? I noticed that the ROM Editor software will allow you to see any codes that the car is throwing and allow you to reset it from the pc. If the tuning session is in south Florida I will bring my laptop so you can mess with it, or ask Mase to take a look for you..
VTC I got you covered with helping you with the Hondata if you need it! If you disconnect the blue interface box then it should run normal but Boost tables won't work and it should have a 4000rpm rev limit. If you start the car then disconnect the interface box I'm not real sure of it will even make a difference? I'm thinking it would still block the boost tables though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOUNDEFFECTS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">VTC I got you covered with helping you with the Hondata if you need it! If you disconnect the blue interface box then it should run normal but Boost tables won't work and it should have a 4000rpm rev limit. If you start the car then disconnect the interface box I'm not real sure of it will even make a difference? I'm thinking it would still block the boost tables though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I figured the same, but it's not happening. It's operating w/o the blue box just as it does with the blue box attatched... interesting I tell ya!
I figured the same, but it's not happening. It's operating w/o the blue box just as it does with the blue box attatched... interesting I tell ya!
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