usdm distributor and ecu change from jdm?
alright so if i sound stupid in anyway please forgive me i am new to the complicated side of cars... which is talking about individual parts of the engine in the engine bay... anyways... onto my question i was first thinking of getting a h22a type-s until i found out, it would be hard to fit such an engine with atts on it into a 4th generation prelude... so i heard of the Euro-R engine, which is the type S engine without the atts, so it can have a LSD on it... and so i am really thinking about getting this engine, and yes i am willing to pay the extra to avoid buying a normal jdm h22a, and doing engine work to possibly get more power, because i want reliability above all, and so i don't want to be tearing the engine apart... anyways does anyone know if when swapping such a JDM engine, if the ECU, and then the distributor needs to be changed to adapt for the 91octane gas here in america versus the 93 octane gas they have over there in japanland? If the ECU would have to be changed to somethign that could handle 91 gas, then i woudl need to substitute it for a USDM ecu right? but there are no usdm type-s or euro R engines here so what would i have to do abotu that, and if i don't then could i just change the distributor alone to a USDM one, without changing the ecu to keep away from the problems i've heard of the jdm internal coil distributors having?
you will have to change the ecu cause these engines are obd2. if your car is 96 is the only way you wont have to change, but obd1 is better. the distributor has to match the ecu, as in obd1 or 2. there is a sensor on the crank that will need to be moved.
you can use usdm p13. or since you will be buying an ecu, by one thats hondata compatible. run hondata system, you wil get the most out of the engine that way.
the gas wont make a difference
you can use usdm p13. or since you will be buying an ecu, by one thats hondata compatible. run hondata system, you wil get the most out of the engine that way.
the gas wont make a difference
where do i get a ecu that could replace the one on a euro-R cause the euro-R is different from the normal h22a's right? is the p13 ecu the one that is on the 95 prelude's engine? and i dont' understand why the 96 would not have to be changed yet the 95 prelude's ecu woudl need to be changed... so if you could explain... sorry this stuff sounds soo complicated i'm getting lost...
it's a 95, i was going to have a shop do it, i just want to make sure i have all the necessary parts... and i don't have a helms manual yet.. when i do i don't think i'll be lost anymore...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rentien »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's a 95, i was going to have a shop do it, i just want to make sure i have all the necessary parts... and i don't have a helms manual yet.. when i do i don't think i'll be lost anymore...</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are going to have a shop do it, or you are doing it?
You are going to have a shop do it, or you are doing it?
i'll have a shop do it... just need to make sure i have all the parts... helms manual is for being smart enough to maintain my car... unless something new pops up for now i plan on having a shop do it... o yea in response to fastlude... why do i HAVE to change from obd II to OBD I i know the 95 comes obd I, but why does that mean i have to change it on the 95?
Modified by rentien at 1:17 PM 11/23/2003
Modified by rentien at 1:17 PM 11/23/2003
type-s engines dont have atts. they have lsd. the euro r engine is an f20b unlike the h22a of the type s. the diff between the type s and the reg. h22 isnt that big of a deal. istead of paying another 2k extra for the type s. you could do work to your h22 to make it better. think about it , thats 2k for 20 horses. you can get that w/ a nice set of cams for about 800 or so. jus my .02 cents
supposedly from what i looked up the euro-R is an h22a with 220 hp? and the type-s is made for atts and you have to get rid of that atts some how or it'll be a big problem? thats what i heard.... and the only reason i want the euro-R or type-s or whatever is because i heard that the type-s/euro-R was manufactured liek that, one less chance of unreliability... i heard of some cams not matching up with the rocker arms or whatever and stuff messing up, i don't really know what all that is, but i just heard that things could mess up with changing the cams and such, and i don't want to open up the engine... EVER haha because i want this car to be reliable too
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