Well most of you wanted to know how well my motor would be holding up after only putting about 15 miles on the motor and then tuning it on the dyno. Since my headgasket blew we did a leakdown test and even then the results were outstanding. These numbers don't make no sense to me, but the results were.

"less than 3 percent" From what I was told that is very good.

 

So what were the numbers?

 

Leakdown
1-3%
2-2%
3-2%
4-3%

My pistons are seated just fine, just like my Eagle rods being solid lol.

Who needs 500 miles when you got 30 lol.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Leakdown
1-3%
2-2%
3-2%
4-3%

My pistons are seated just fine, just like my Eagle rods being solid lol.

Who needs 500 miles when you got 30 lol. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you get the headgasket problem fixed?

 

Don't have time to work on the car till this weekend. I gotta run the business. The headgasket from GE won't be coming in till tomorrow anyways.

 

what bore is your motor?

 

84mm Bore GE Sleeved.

 

You may want to have the block's deck/sleeves checked before you put in the new head gasket to ensure that a sleeve didn't drop.

Ben

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bnjmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You may want to have the block's deck/sleeves checked before you put in the new head gasket to ensure that a sleeve didn't drop.

Ben</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah have you had a chance to check yet??

 

Nope not yet. Like I said it won't be till this weekend. I gotta get some time off work first before I can work on the car. That is one of the first things I am going to check when I take the head off. First I gotta look at the gasket to see where exactly it blew. Examine that and the area it blew out at on the block and head to make sure there are no cracks in that area. Then I will check for deck height and straightness. But first and foremost I am going to check the torque on the ARP Headstuds. If they are no near 74lbs or greater than I will assume that could have been part of the problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BodyKits NW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nope not yet. Like I said it won't be till this weekend. I gotta get some time off work first before I can work on the car. That is one of the first things I am going to check when I take the head off. First I gotta look at the gasket to see where exactly it blew. Examine that and the area it blew out at on the block and head to make sure there are no cracks in that area. Then I will check for deck height and straightness. But first and foremost I am going to check the torque on the ARP Headstuds. If they are no near 74lbs or greater than I will assume that could have been part of the problem. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought 65 -70 lbs was the highest you should go with arp's?

 

Im glad to see that you have success with GEM. I sure didnt

 

Naw man. People torque those suckers to 82+ft lbs. I believe last time I looked at the GE sheet they recommend 78ftlbs with molylube or 86ftlbs with oil.

 

Just for a comparison heres my leakdown results from the 91 Integra I just fixed. With 190k miles on the bottom end, pistons and rings! New had gasket and I had the head hot tanked and a full 3 angle valve job.

1 - 1%
2 - 2%
3 - 2%
4 - 1%
@ 100psi

Sorry just wanted to brag!

 

I wouldnt care about head stud tq if iwere you....the first thing I would look at is the sleeves to see if they sunk. Only because I would want the biggest thing out of the way first.

 

You wouldn't worry about it? lol That is the first thing I can do right before taking off the head. If they are not even close to the torque range that is a clear sign that could have added to the cause of the failed HG. Why not find out before taking the head off, that would be crazy if you would not check that first when it's right there. After checking the torque of the ARP headnuts before you take off the head is probably the easiest thing to do, and the best way to put that aside as the cause for failure. Once that is done then remove the head and inspect everything.

 

I have even heard of people retorqueing after a small leak and having it cure their problem. Although it would suck to do that and put it back together just to find out that it didn't work. I wouldn't do it that way but it's just a suggestion. Let us know how it all turns out.

-Ryan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kwuaymaikrup &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have even heard of people retorqueing after a small leak and having it cure their problem. Although it would suck to do that and put it back together just to find out that it didn't work. I wouldn't do it that way but it's just a suggestion. Let us know how it all turns out.

-Ryan</TD></TR></TABLE>

i hate to agree but i have seen this fix 2 diffrent HG leaks. it's quick but it worked for these guys and it's been almost a year on one of them.