My friend (Blindstuff is his SN in HT) is planning on starting his boost proyect on his 92 Civic Si Sedan, we have a CT20 Turbo, a stock G1 Mitsubishi Eclipse Side mount Intercooler and also G1 BOV...
We need help with how to make the piping, the intake and exhaust manifold, will a boost regulator and a turbo timer (planing to run around 5-6 psi of boost) be needed...i think you people get the point. This is going to be our first project and we want to do it for ourselves.

Many people told us that heat could also be a problem in these kind of low cost or homemade setups. I want to know if that is true, and if it is true, what we could do to avoid heat damage.

Also, the engine has about 83,XXX miles. Is it safe to do this setup with that mileage?

Another thing, we have been looking at the IC, and it seems we could modify the pipes to make it a FMIC...look at the pic, the other pipe, runs out and to the back, i mean cuting the pipe that goes up and setting it straight out.




Any advice or help will be greatly apreciated

 

I think it would be easier to route your piping to the ic if you turn it around first.

 

my boosted a6 has 180,000 miles on it i have a t25 turbo with smic, for ur piping i took metal clothes hanger and bent them the way i needed then took it to a muffler shop and got them to bend it like the hanger, for the exhaust manifold get a cx manifold or hf manifold of ebay then get a adapter plate made for it. my stock turbo is set at 10 lbs of boost so i got a manual boost controller on ebay and now it is set at 6 lbs. check out homemadeturbo.com

 

how did you use a MBC to turn down the boost? MBC only good for turning up the boost, i thought.

 

just do a compression test and a leak down test. that you will know it its safe for sure.

 

Thanx everybody for your replies...i got a some things clearer now, still have a few doubts though...i would really like to hear further opinions...
thanx again

 

Sort of the idea I had for the IC setup just so it picks a bit more fresh air, and the piping from one side to the other in case someday I go with a real FMIC...


Ps. Sorry for the Shitty Photoshop edit, didint feel like puting much efort in to the pic

 

look at the z6 greddy piping, and then rotate ur intercooler 90 degrees clockwise (when looking at pic). chop the dsm ic piping at the bend so that the piping left coming out is pretty straight. now the pipe that you didnt cut should be on top and line up with the stock resonator hole so that the charge piping from ic to tb should just be like cai piping. the pipe end that you cut will now be pointing to the right. if you position the ic right where the stock resonator is, it will tuck in nicely and the pipe will be located behind the radiator. now have the turbo outlet pointing down and basically you'll need a simple 90 degree L-shaped pipe running down from the turbo and going to the left to connect to the ic. that would be the easiest and neatest way to do it. just a suggestions. good luck.

oh yea, have you tried putting the bumper back on when the ic is in the spot you picked? i dont even think it will fit. is your bumper support removed already or just photoshopped out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jspek29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my boosted a6 has 180,000 miles on it i have a t25 turbo with smic, for ur piping i took metal clothes hanger and bent them the way i needed then took it to a muffler shop and got them to bend it like the hanger, for the exhaust manifold get a cx manifold or hf manifold of ebay then get a adapter plate made for it. my stock turbo is set at 10 lbs of boost so i got a manual boost controller on ebay and now it is set at 6 lbs. check out homemadeturbo.com </TD></TR></TABLE>
your wrong your probaly talking about the other way around

 

how am i wrong when i dont have my boost controller on and i give it full throttle my boost gauge reads 10 lbs of boost , not to good on a stock motor , but when i put on my boost controller and give it full throttle it reads 6 lbs , who are u to tell that im wrong u never driving my car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by InTeGrA B18b1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[/B]
your wrong your probaly talking about the other way around</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

i think he was saying that you had it backwards because boost controllers cannot lower boost pressure below what your wastegate is already set to. the boost controller delays the reading of full boost to the wastegate thus allowing you to boost more while the wg stays shut longer. it's not like the boost controller can supply a boost signal to the wg and make it open earlier which is why technically you cannot lower your stock boost via a boost controller. it isn't really an opinion or guess, its a fact. i don't think he was trying to insult you or anything. just thought you typed wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pengo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think he was saying that you had it backwards because boost controllers cannot lower boost pressure below what your wastegate is already set to. the boost controller delays the reading of full boost to the wastegate thus allowing you to boost more while the wg stays shut longer. it's not like the boost controller can supply a boost signal to the wg and make it open earlier which is why technically you cannot lower your stock boost via a boost controller. it isn't really an opinion or guess, its a fact. i don't think he was trying to insult you or anything. just thought you typed wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>
this is what i have , and this what it says it does "This boost controller is based on a ball and spring mechanism. A simple turn of a screw is all it takes to lower or raise the boost"

 

Where did u buy that boost controler, never heard that a boost controler could do that...
Ok, thanx for all the info, i still have to try puting the IC in a FMIC position, but it will some time before i can try it, im having my front bumber modified so i dont have one wth me, I know it fits perfectly in the resonator's box location, but i wanted to mount it in front so it would pick up some more fresh air

 

yea i hear what your saying. let us know if u figure out how to fit it, those dsm sidemounts may be small but they're pretty thick; i was just looking at mine the other day. good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jspek29 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A simple turn of a screw is all it takes to lower or raise the boost"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Raise or lower the boost above stock. You cannot make a 5psi wastegate go lower then 5psi with a mbc.

 

Okay, the coathanger idea seems pretty good. I wish I had thought of that. I see no reason that that wouldn't work.

I make ic piping with u bends. You can get them for around $12 us each.

As far as the manifold goes. Make one. Use tee's and weldels. Search for them at http://www.mcmastercarr.com

If you need a d series flange, I think I have one laying around. pm me if you need it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matt_sb2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As far as the manifold goes. Make one. Use tee's and weldels. Search for them at http://www.mcmastercarr.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can u explain that a bit better, i was looking at the page, but it seems very complicated to build a mainfold out of piping with tee's, also very unreliable, like it will leak...Sorry if its a n00b coment