Got my swap and the tps sensor broke. I have heard that the one on my civic are the same so i think i m going to swap it over. Motor is a b18a and car is eg. I m thinking a hack saw. What did you guy find useful?

 

Torx screwdriver is what you need.... forget the exact size . That way you can unscrew it, and replace it with your Civic one (yes, same thing) but make sure you put in on correctly and line everything up properly of you'll get a TPS code.

 

Newman, it's not a trox screw...i dont get what you are saying. It is almost like a rivit deal.

 

jdm's have screws, usdm's have rivits. I used a dremel, sanded them dowm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mmuller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jdm's have screws, usdm's have rivits. I used a dremel, sanded them dowm</TD></TR></TABLE>
no both have rivits, the screws are used when the rivets are removed.

 

use a vise grips and lock it slightly when turn it a little... it should loosen... after that unscrew it with your fingers

 

Use a dremel with a round blade and notch the head straight across like a flathead screw then use a flathead screwdriver - works everytime

 

Do what VTECVillain said...worked for me!

 

when i got my swap done my car is still idlin fucked up . Is it possible that my cars throttle position sensor fucked up while puttin the h22 swap from underneath the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preluder &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when i got my swap done my car is still idlin fucked up . Is it possible that my cars throttle position sensor fucked up while puttin the h22 swap from underneath the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>
its more likley the idle air control valve thats sticking.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DevinW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do what VTECVillain said...worked for me!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ditto. I replaced the damm things with stainless steel hex head cap screws. Makes adjusting the thing a LOT easier.

Mike

 

Yes, I agree with VTECVillan as well, I've read that in a bunch of different
posts and magazine atricles.
Also, you'll have to calibrate your TPS after install with an ohmeter
I think? Get a helms it'll tell you the procedure.

 

When i swapped in my gsr, I broke the tps.....then took the old one out of the CX motor. Drill out the rivet head...you can then find some random screws that fit into the holes....you will see them. when your done you'll see how easy it was...

 

Thank you guys... got it out today. Good info

 

What? Calibrate? Anyone confirm this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ProJectCvic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What? Calibrate? Anyone confirm this?</TD></TR></TABLE>


According to the May 2003 issue of SCC-"TPS is adjustable and
should be set after the engines installed. To adjust:
Measure output voltage with a voltmeter with the throttle fully opened
AND voltage with throttle fully closed" -according to Helms,
"Voltage approx.0.5v full close and 4.5v at full open? There should
be smooth transition from .5v to 4.5 as throttle is depressed"
"Then you can tighten down TPS"
you really need a helms for the full procedure.
If not done correctly you will throw code 7on the ecu.
HTH

 

okay, Thanks