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REVISED LIST AGAIN
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Hey, im poor which everyone knows isnt good if ya wanna go turbo. So I'm hoping that you all can help me find some good deals. Right now I have a stock JDM B16a in an EH2, and im gonna start picking up parts for my setup this summer. This is what I have planned out so far:

$200 - Rebuilt Garrett T3
$270 - A dropshop log style manifold
$170 - A dropshop 2.5" downpipe
$175 - Used Tial 35mm wastegate
$100 - Charge Piping from JCWhitney
$100 - Oil Feed/Return Lines and Fittings
$50 - Silicone Hoses & Clamps
$10 - Vacuum Lines & Tees
$150 - SMC 500
$35 - Flex Pipe
$85 - 190lph Walbro Fuelpump
$25 - NGK Sparkplugs
$15 - Manual Boost Controller

TOTAL - $1358

Do these prices look ok to everyone?

Thats all I got right now. I am gonna run low boost at first so I won't be using an IC or a BOV. I'll pick up those when I can afford them.


Modified by Notveryfast at 1:57 AM 4/27/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Notveryfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1.) Wastegate
2.) Charge Piping
3.) Hoses & Clamps
4.) Steel Braided -3 Oil Line
5.) Oil Return Line
6.) Vacuum Tee's and Lines
7.) High Pressure Silicon Hoses
8.) Fuel Pressure Regulator
9.) Bigger Fuel Pump
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wastegates can be found cheap at http://www.ebay.com .I got my external audi wastegate for 65 shipped but the downside it had a 1bar(14.7psi)spring..I would find a turbo that already has a wastegate..Most wastegate srpings at set at 5-7psi..

"High pressure silicone hoses"lol...U can get couplings from http://www.homedepot.com that work good..Piping,Oil lines,flange,fittings,t's,blah,, can be found at http://www.turbopiping.com ..I would toss out the fuel pump for now until u want to run bigger..You still will need somewhat of fuel management..Id get a fmu(40-90$)..There is a lot of dispute about them but they work good at low levels(0-6psi)of boost.

Tossed out the fuel pump..Audi has cheap fmic's for 50.00 at ebay or get a mitsubish side mount for around 20-30..Get a 1g dsm bov..These are starter bov's and they run around 10-40...Both of these =same price as pump

Main places u will get ur stuff...
http://www.ebay.com
http://www.turbopiping.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Notveryfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
$160 - A rebuilt junkyard t3
$270 - A dropshop log style manifold
$170 - A dropshop 2.5" downpipe</TD></TR></TABLE>

Get a custom downpipe...U will save money...



edit: Top right corner search button works

 

Thanks for the help T3, thats a good site. I've got the stock d15 pump in there now though which is 79lph I think. Are you sure that this will work?

 

IMO..Yes it will work for some time..But if u plan on going bigger then u should upgrade it to a 255lph..Some walbros go for 60 on ebay

 

Do some research on the DropShop before you order the mani or the dp. I've never dealt with them or anything but you should know that customers have had some problems with them in the past.

And BTW, Im pretty sure you need some way to bypass the MAP senser or you'll throw a code. The missing link is one of the ways to do this though there are others.

 

I think you'll probably want to pick up that fuel pump. Some people complain that the d series pump can't even support their mild NA setups. Ya might as well get one when you can b/c you are gonna need one eventually. Better safe then blown up.

 

Yes you need the missing link.....
Flexpipe for your downpipe is usually necessary....
I'd recommend at least a filter on your turbo.....at least mate it to the inlet....and don't buy piping if money is an issue
Used turbos blows....buy a new one...cheapturbo.com. Your turbo is the heart of the setup...so I'd buy a new one.....SAVE and buy from cheapturbo.com its hella cheap for a brand new turbo.
Even if money is an issue you can always be patient.....don't rush a custom turbo setup...read the archives....and gather all the testing that has been done on custom setups....fmu and your stock setup will work, but i would definately at least get the 190lph Walbro....and and you need something to lean or richen...so a safc/vafc might be necessary.....or you'll have way to high EGT temps and cracked rings and or sleeves even at 6psi. IF YOUR RICH or LEAN YOU"LL BE RUNNING HIGH TEMPS.
I'd recommend a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel filter. and a boost and egt gauge...and don't get any narrowband a/f gauge like autometer....it's just a technicolor light show
If you go to c-speedracing.com you can do a manual boost controller for $6 and I read recently that somebody did that and it held boost perfectly to the set setting with spiking..

 

How much boost are you planning on running?

 

Two things I'd add:

Maximum Boost by Corky Bell (this is a book)
some kind of intercooler

I have a Vortech 12:1, and a missing link, both new, for the prices you listed, if you want..
moduluso@hotmail.com

 

$550 - Garrett T3/T4 (A new garrett t3/t4 can be bought for this price)
$270 - A dropshop log style manifold (not familar with this manifold, I'd look at it first)
$200 - Used Tial 35mm wastegate (a new Tial WG can be bought for $200-220)

Thats all I got right now. I am gonna run low boost at first so I won't be using an IC or a BOV. I'll pick up those when I can afford them.
~I'd still use a BOV in a low boost application, you could probably get away with no intercooler for awhile. Although IMO it is easier to wait until you have the BOV and intercooler so you only have to fab charge pipes once. It is almost worth the extra money and waiting time.

If I pick up a fuel pressure gauge, will I need an FPR to vary the pressure or can I use the FMU? Is there a way that I can tell how much fuel to add based solely on a fuel pressure gauge and an EGT gauge? Im eventually gonna pick up a hondata but I want put that off until I get an IC, BOV, and up the boost.
~to adjust fuel pressure you will need the gauge and an adjustable fpr. A quick and dirty way would be to use a B&M with your stock fpr. The fmu will take care of fuel enrichment during boost conditions. Or you could use a replacement adjustable fpr instead of the B&M/oem fpr.

I remember hearing about something called an SMC. Although my memory is a little foggy on it, didnt it allow for fuel tuning and it bypassed the MAP sensor or fixed the map sensor or something? Anyone heard of this?
~I think your talking about the Missing Link

Would a KN filter off a short ram work for a turbo filter if the charge and ic piping is 2.25"? Thanks in advance for the help.
~A k&n filter will work fine for the turbo intet filter.

 

I was under the impression that a K&N filter for a 2.5" intake tube would not fit on a 2.25" charge pipe. Can someone confirm what SLPR is saying?

 

Thanks for the help guys. What else does it look like I need?


Modified by Notveryfast at 1:59 AM 4/27/2003

 

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