I hate electricity
I'm trying to connect my DIY Wide-Band O2 kit and need help with this:
"The Positive battery connection wire that should be connected to a switched point on the vehicle that is activated when the ignition is turned on. The other wire connects to the vehicle's ground, and preferably as close to the battery, or ECM as possible."
So what would be a "switched point" on the vehicle where I can connect this power lead?
thanks!
"The Positive battery connection wire that should be connected to a switched point on the vehicle that is activated when the ignition is turned on. The other wire connects to the vehicle's ground, and preferably as close to the battery, or ECM as possible."
So what would be a "switched point" on the vehicle where I can connect this power lead?
thanks!
use a multi-meter to find a 12V 'turn on' wire - or one that only gets power when the car is turned on
kind of like the blue wire when you're hooking up a stereo/amp
kind of like the blue wire when you're hooking up a stereo/amp
use a test light in your fusebox when you turn the key to on position. Make sure which ever fuse you select loses power with the key in off position. Just skin the wire back an inch, take out the fuse from the fuseholder, wrap the wire around one of the two metal prongs on the fuse, and just push the fuse back in done.
use a test light in your fusebox when you turn the key to on position. Make sure which ever fuse you select loses power with the key in off position. Just skin the wire back an inch, take out the fuse from the fuseholder, wrap the wire around one of the two metal prongs on the fuse, and just push the fuse back in done.
You know what, scratch all that. Splice into the cigarette lighter harness since it's right there by the sensor anyway. It's the yellow-red wire before the plug and a white-blue wire after the plug. This is already fused.
The instructions continue:
"Resist the temptation to connect the battery cable to a cigarette lighter plug as these tend to be unreliable. Remember also that the sensor should NOT be run with the heater disconnected as a cold sensor will rapidly clog up (perhaps irreversibly) with carbon deposits that are burnt off during normal operation."
"Resist the temptation to connect the battery cable to a cigarette lighter plug as these tend to be unreliable. Remember also that the sensor should NOT be run with the heater disconnected as a cold sensor will rapidly clog up (perhaps irreversibly) with carbon deposits that are burnt off during normal operation."
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Ok... I ran to the auto-parts store and picked up a voltmeter.
None of the open fuse holders carry 12V.
I ended up using the SRS 10A Fuse and wedged the wire in with the fuse.
...Works fine, however the SRS light is on. I'm sure it's getting current. reset the ECU... still SRS light.
long day, going to sleep... will figure it out tomorrow.
None of the open fuse holders carry 12V.
I ended up using the SRS 10A Fuse and wedged the wire in with the fuse.
...Works fine, however the SRS light is on. I'm sure it's getting current. reset the ECU... still SRS light.
long day, going to sleep... will figure it out tomorrow.
SRS circuit is touchy. You're robbing it of current by running the O2 sensor in parallel. I don't know why the instructions say the cigarette lighter circuit is unreliable, but since you've obviously already run wire to the fuse block, there are I think 5 open leads above the fuses numbered 1-5. They are empty by default and contain switched IGN, as well as ACC and battery feeds.
Not sure which # is which but you can figure that out.
As for the SRS light.....
The entire process is outlined in section 23 of the helms manual. To do this you need to short the MES connector, which is the yellow connector that clips to the front of the interior fuseblock. Pull it out and short it with a service connector/paperclip and then it goes something like this...
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
[Modified by sackdz, 9:02 PM 3/23/2003]
Not sure which # is which but you can figure that out.
As for the SRS light.....
The entire process is outlined in section 23 of the helms manual. To do this you need to short the MES connector, which is the yellow connector that clips to the front of the interior fuseblock. Pull it out and short it with a service connector/paperclip and then it goes something like this...
-Ignition off: Short MES connector
-Ignition on: SRS comes on and then goes out. within 4 seconds open connector (remove short)
-SRS light comes on. Within 4 seconds short connector.
-SRS light goes out. Within 4 seconds open connector (remove short).
-SRS light blinks twice and goes off indication sysytem has been reset.
[Modified by sackdz, 9:02 PM 3/23/2003]
Did you correct the situation that made it go off in the first place? You can't leave the O2 sensor on that circuit if you want your airbags to work.
[Modified by sackdz, 3:42 PM 3/24/2003]
[Modified by sackdz, 3:42 PM 3/24/2003]
I dont know how integras are but on my civic i have accessory plugs below the fuses in the fuse box. There plugs I think theres 5 of them they all give 12v when certain things are on (lights, Ignition etc). Try that
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Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 22, 2002 07:48 AM




