oil filter?
back of motor between firewall and block. put car on jackstand to get to it. really helps if you have the appropriate wrench to fit. Don't fool around, use only honda filters with flowback valve. around 5 bucks @ A&hmotorsports.com
aight all my oils out and its jacked and im sitting under the filter.. how the hell do i get that thing out?
nevermind ive figured it out,
thanks everybody..
[Modified by sharkey65a, 3:58 AM 2/8/2003]
nevermind ive figured it out,
thanks everybody..
[Modified by sharkey65a, 3:58 AM 2/8/2003]
Unless you do mucho forearm reps then it can be tuff without a wrench.
you can always poke a screwdriver through it to get extra leverage...messy thou
you can always poke a screwdriver through it to get extra leverage...messy thou
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just for future reference... this is the BEST tool i think for filter removal.. makes it a hundred times easier.. thanks to the guys here at ht i picked one up at sears and ask my roomate.. it made it 100 times easier... oh and for the drain bolt, i actually replaced mine with one of those fram sure drain things.. so all i have to do is screw on a hose to the new replacement drain bolt and put the other end of the hose in my drain pan and i get zero mess.
here's a pic of the craftsmen oil filter removal tool i was talkin bout...

here's the sure drain thing...

[Modified by pdcdragon, 5:26 PM 2/12/2003]
here's a pic of the craftsmen oil filter removal tool i was talkin bout...

here's the sure drain thing...

[Modified by pdcdragon, 5:26 PM 2/12/2003]
People have cut it open before, M1 has much finer filter media.
To be honest I think you can just use anything but Fram, Purolator Pure 1, Wix, Champion are all good for <$4
To be honest I think you can just use anything but Fram, Purolator Pure 1, Wix, Champion are all good for <$4
People have cut it open before, M1 has much finer filter media.
To be honest I think you can just use anything but Fram, Purolator Pure 1, Wix, Champion are all good for <$4
To be honest I think you can just use anything but Fram, Purolator Pure 1, Wix, Champion are all good for <$4
whats your reasoning for staying away from FRAM?
2. plastic bypaass valve- these valves are prone to breaking which will cause your filter to stay in bypass mode all the time, i.e. oil will circulate in your motor w/o passing through the filter.
3. no or faulty anti-drain back valve- when you shut off your motor oil will flow back out of the filter leaving it with no oil which leads to dry start-ups.
People have cut it open before, M1 has much finer filter media.
http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/filters.shtml
... oh and for the drain bolt, i actually replaced mine with one of those fram sure drain things.. so all i have to do is screw on a hose to the new replacement drain bolt and put the other end of the hose in my drain pan and i get zero mess.
All the mess comes from the filter, not the drain!
Why did they put the filter back there so it HAS to spill all over the axle & the exhaust pipe?
well i let my oil pan drain as much as possible before removing the filter, and i also open up the oil cap obviously, so there is no pressure holdin it in, and tap on the oil filter a little to help get the oil out of there.... then i put some papertowels underneathe where the filter is, up on part of the block, and then remove the filter, the towels soak up all the oil and no mess. i swear i had one maybe two small drops of oil on teh floor the last time i did an oil change and they were maybe 2.5" in diameter... thats bout it.
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