What wires from Tech Edge v1.5 go to OE O2 Harness for Hondata?
I am hooking up my Tech Edge v1.5 and am wondering what wires do use to go to the OE Green/White O2 sensor harness from the Wideband to send the signal to the Hondata.
Are they in the Data Aquisition cable or do you still have to spilce into the display cable? And if so which wire goes to which?
My unit came with NO directions, how about yours?
Are they in the Data Aquisition cable or do you still have to spilce into the display cable? And if so which wire goes to which?
My unit came with NO directions, how about yours?
From the techedge site.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/info5301.htm
"There are two connectors from the TE-5301. They are shown here looking at the female DB9 connector ends. they have small numbers printed on them for positive identification.
The longer (and slightly thicker) cable connects to the WB unit and carries power to the display (pin 9), ground (pin 6), and wideband signal in (pin 7, called Vout on version 1.0, and Vwb on version 1.5).
The shorter (and thinner) cable carries the RS232 signal (described below) and is designed to connect directly to a PC."
You will have to tap the wire in Pin 7 of the longer display cable and run it either directly to pin D14 on the ecu or the white wire on the OE o2 sensor harness.
Someone correct me if I've made any errors please, I don't want to be spreading misinformation but most of it came directly from the techedge site. Or, you could agree with me and give a
and at the same time a bump for the other people looking for the same thing.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/info5301.htm
"There are two connectors from the TE-5301. They are shown here looking at the female DB9 connector ends. they have small numbers printed on them for positive identification.
The longer (and slightly thicker) cable connects to the WB unit and carries power to the display (pin 9), ground (pin 6), and wideband signal in (pin 7, called Vout on version 1.0, and Vwb on version 1.5).
The shorter (and thinner) cable carries the RS232 signal (described below) and is designed to connect directly to a PC."
You will have to tap the wire in Pin 7 of the longer display cable and run it either directly to pin D14 on the ecu or the white wire on the OE o2 sensor harness.
Someone correct me if I've made any errors please, I don't want to be spreading misinformation but most of it came directly from the techedge site. Or, you could agree with me and give a
and at the same time a bump for the other people looking for the same thing.
Thanks!
I did finally find that link on their site, it just took a minute.
However, It is correct! I actually just took the connector that attaches to the Tech Edge unit apart and soldered right to the same terminals the wires going to the display use. Then to a cut off OE O2 harness with a 1K Ohm resistor across the black wires to avoid a CE light and it is perfect.
I am running Hondata and was worried about the voltage difference people have posted about but mine is dead on. I check it with a digital multimeter at the 6 & 7 pins on the WB out then plug it in and check what Romeditor is seeing and it is within .03 , so thats pretty good ( BTW - When you shut the car off, and the ECU on the sensor, after a minute, will stay at one comparable voltage to check between).
Also, I just hooked the pos + wire to the switched accesory empty spade conector at the top of the fuse block (my gauges are using it also) and the ground screw just in front of the drivers door, above the kick panel.
Hope this helps someone.
I did finally find that link on their site, it just took a minute.
However, It is correct! I actually just took the connector that attaches to the Tech Edge unit apart and soldered right to the same terminals the wires going to the display use. Then to a cut off OE O2 harness with a 1K Ohm resistor across the black wires to avoid a CE light and it is perfect.
I am running Hondata and was worried about the voltage difference people have posted about but mine is dead on. I check it with a digital multimeter at the 6 & 7 pins on the WB out then plug it in and check what Romeditor is seeing and it is within .03 , so thats pretty good ( BTW - When you shut the car off, and the ECU on the sensor, after a minute, will stay at one comparable voltage to check between).
Also, I just hooked the pos + wire to the switched accesory empty spade conector at the top of the fuse block (my gauges are using it also) and the ground screw just in front of the drivers door, above the kick panel.
Hope this helps someone.
Here is a
for good info. One more question though.
"Then to a cut off OE O2 harness with a 1K Ohm resistor across the black wires to avoid a CE light and it is perfect."
What black wire? The heater wire?
Thanks for the info!!
for good info. One more question though."Then to a cut off OE O2 harness with a 1K Ohm resistor across the black wires to avoid a CE light and it is perfect."
What black wire? The heater wire?
Thanks for the info!!
"Then to a cut off OE O2 harness with a 1K Ohm resistor across the black wires to avoid a CE light and it is perfect."
What black wire? The heater wire?
What black wire? The heater wire?
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What kind of adverse affects would running the TE unit as the main O2 sensing device? I don't really want to remove the unit from the car at all.
Also, will the ECU freak out because of the higher O2 voltage readings? The stock O2 is a 0-1V, the wideband is much more than this.
Also, will the ECU freak out because of the higher O2 voltage readings? The stock O2 is a 0-1V, the wideband is much more than this.
I think the new techedge wideband has a function that emulates a factory o2 sensor and varies voltage between 0 and 1 volt. Otherwise, using hondata, you will just have to run in open loop to keep the ecu from throwing a CEL
I read that the 1.5 has Narrowband function. But if you hook D14 to the Vout signal on the DB9 connector isn't that voltage still 0-5V?
I would assume that the function of that pin is changed when you switch to the 0-1 volt mode. If not that would have to be researched a little more. I don't own a techedge but have been getting my info from thier site.
There has got to be something more to this...
I see the 1.5 box has two ports. One for the WB O2 and another for Data Acquisition.
If I remember right there is a pin for narrowband on the DA cable....
Techedge Users: Do you still pull 0-5V through your ECU when you solder your stock signal wire to the DB9 connector?
I see the 1.5 box has two ports. One for the WB O2 and another for Data Acquisition.
If I remember right there is a pin for narrowband on the DA cable....
Techedge Users: Do you still pull 0-5V through your ECU when you solder your stock signal wire to the DB9 connector?
The 1.5 does have a norrowband O2 output (0- 1v I think).
Here is the link to the page on their website that shows what wire does what. It is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/1v5/const.htm
Here is the link to the page on their website that shows what wire does what. It is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/1v5/const.htm
The 1.5 does have a norrowband O2 output (0- 1v I think).
Here is the link to the page on their website that shows what wire does what. It is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/1v5/const.htm
you are correct. i just finished building and installing mine utilizing the NB output into the ECU and it works like a charm. a lot easier than welding on an additional bung.
Here is the link to the page on their website that shows what wire does what. It is toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/1v5/const.htm
you are correct. i just finished building and installing mine utilizing the NB output into the ECU and it works like a charm. a lot easier than welding on an additional bung.
I opted to have an addtional bung welded onto my header downpipe, only cost $18. I didn't want my ecu to rely on a simulated signal
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