Are there a lot of people out there running dsm's and afc without btm. If so are you having any problems?
I have a drag III kit with dsm's and s-afc and would like to run about 10lbs(stock internals except block guard)
1. Can I just retard ignition timing slightly with the distributor?
2. How should my correction differemces differ between 6 and 10lbs (low and high boost with profec)
thanks

 

I'm running my HACK with timing retarded at the distributor. If I wasn't eventually getting a standalone, I'd get a BTM.

 

how far retarded are you going on the distributor?

 

Maybe you guys can clear this up for me....

Book says 18BTDC so if i would want to retard it 4 degrees just put my timing light at 14 and set the distributor till the correct niche in the crankshaft lines up with the timing marks?

 

Bump, wondering the same thing.

 

3-4 degress is what most people recommend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drvfast &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">3-4 degress is what most people recommend</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly

i have the BTM

it stopped working for a day and i was even not considering to go too high without the retard

 

I was running a D16z6 w/ 2 degrees retarded on 10psi w/just a vafc set at 35% across for about 4000+ miles. I beat on it quite a bit.

It pulled ****** crazy. But I knew it was gonna be on it's last leg soon (If I didn't eventually do something about the timing sooner or later). So Uberdata it was.....

I'd definately look into it, it's not difficult at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BorderM3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Book says 18BTDC so if i would want to retard it 4 degrees just put my timing light at 14 and set the distributor till the correct niche in the crankshaft lines up with the timing marks?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would do it manually. (You're talking about using a digital timing light gun, right?)

Jump the service connector, and make sure the idle is at 750 rpms. (All accessories are off too) Set up the timing light gun and loosen the distributor. Turn it until the GREEN line matches with the pointer on the block side.

Green = 14 degrees BTC
White = 16 degrees BTC
Red = 18 degrees BTC

The lone white line is 0 degrees. Don't set it there.

^That's for B series. The H/F guys have it a little harder. Their timing marks are located on the tranny side, located inside the access hole near the H22/F22 stamp on the block. Same process, just different location.

 

*sigh*

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=841443

AFC hack + BTM = the only thing being retarded at a crucial point is your brain.