Hey so I知 here for some help. I致e tried everything I can think of. Here痴 the information that痴 probably pertinent to the problem 98 prelude h23a s300 installed in p28 ecu. Ignition coil and distributor were working when I pulled the original h22. So I致e got no spark. Started with the simple stuff. pulled a plug wire with a plug on it and put it on a ground while cranking... no spark. Ecu is lit up, power to fuel pump, cranks fine. Followed the icm test procedure in the Haynes manual and thought it might be the icm, changed that, no spark still. There is continuity between ecu and icm. Power from ignition is there. Tested ignition coil (which worked before) all ohm readings came back good. Ground to ecu on thermostat is good. Im stumped. Please help. I致e been dying to get this thing running.

 

Do you have a PC? because if you can connect to the ECU that would be hugely helpful in figuring out what is happening.

 

i do have a pc I uploaded the stock F20b turbo map (its really close to my setup) but I don稚 know Honda wel the plan was get it running trailer it to the tuner after it痴 all done. How could i check the problem inside smanager? I知 a decent mechanic but I知 no tuner.

 

That will probably let you limp to the tuner. You may have have to throw some fuel at it, if it isnt running well (lean)

If you click the lightning bolt symbol, you will see live info from the ECU. There is one panel that shows all the sensor readings, this is particularly useful to make sure everything is hooked up right. You will also be able to see check engine codes in another window.
Post a screenshot if you can and Ill see if I can help you from there.

 

the problem is that it won稚 run at all. Are there any specific sensor inputs that control whether or not the ecu will send spark? I知 going to trailer it to the tuner but I知 not going going bring him a no start problem lol. I will plug in and send a screen shot of what I find shortly.

 

ive got a coolant temp code which shouldn稚 matter in a start up. Here are the sensors too. Battery voltage is slightly low due to trying to crank.

 

Looks all good there. Try cranking it and see if the RPMs are being read by the ECU.

 

what does it mean if it doesn稚, because I don稚 think it does. Also I am not running a crank sensor which shouldn稚 matter right? I didn稚 check the blue distributor wire that goes to the factory tachometer for continuity because it always had it before and it痴 a giant pain in the ***. Could that connection be the problem?

 

Thats your issue. Im not too familiar with H/F series stuff, but if its anything like the other engines, on OBD2 cars you had crank sensors in addition to the cam sensors in the distributor.

Im pretty sure youre going to need an OBD1 distributor and may have to modify some wiring as well. Do some searching, youre not the first one to do this.

 

I see several issues.
1) you do need to either A) use a crank sensor, or B) switch to OBD1 distributor with jumper harness
2) map sensor is definitely not reading right. What map sensor is installed? and what map sensor is selected in the basemap?
3) coolant temp says 177??? if it doesn't run, how in the hell is it showing so warm? either the sensor is bad, or there's a wiring issue, or the plug is connected to the wrong thing, or the ecu is damaged

 

... and you show a Distributor Error "ON" which suggests the lack of a critical signal to the ECU.

Double check your wiring for the distributor... you MUST either use the CKP and TDC sensors at the crankshaft AND the CYP sensor in the USDM distributor OR a JDM distributor with all three sensors inside it and lengthen/adapt the original engine harness plug down by the oil pump to reach the JDM distributor plug and either pin it in or create some type of adapter plug.

 

^Good catch I didnt notice the Dist error.

Im not sure how far off from atmospheric that MAP reading is. I always use kPa, makes way more sense to me.

 

Really ?!? Are you Canadian ? Heheh

 

Actually, engine coolant temperature sensor problems usually make it REALLY Difficult to start the engine... but this doesn't explain the lack of spark as you stated in your initial post.

 

Floridian actually. lol
kPa seems to be the standard on a lot of standalones, and just makes sense to me as an absolute pressure scale. I am still stuck on PSI as boost in my head, but I still leave it in kPa and just find myself doing the quick mental math, like 200 kPa = 1 bar boost = 14.7 psi.