Recently bought an old 96 accord. Water pump was slightly leaking so I went to the auto store to get a new pump, belt, and some spark plugs. On the way home I noticed some noise from the around the water pump and the engine began to over heat a little. I figured i could make it 2 more miles but the engine stalled while driving and had it towed home. the belt is intact and doesn't seem to have slipped, though it is quite worn, and I don't know what the hell i'm looking at anyway. Is it possible the water pump simply seized and it preventing it from starting? If the belt didn't slip would that cause damage to the valves?

Excuse me for asking to be spoon food information on a problem you'd probably have to look at to know. But I'd like some reassurance before I get working on it and possibly ask more questions as needed while replacing the pump and belt.

Oh yeah, pulled the following codes: p0305, p1362, p1382, p1491. Didn't have those a few days ago other than the misfire. Car is probably a goner . . .

Thanks

 

Well I'm able to manually move the belt using a socket wrench without too much force, though the timing belt is pretty haggard. The engine almost sounds like it wants to over. Since it died while driving maybe its actually a fuel problem? Timing belts are cheap, I guess I'll change it out anyway before calling a scrapper . . .

 

Was able to get upper timing cover off at least. : https://imgur.com/Rr989Vt Belt split down the side but still on

Suppose I need to get bottom cover off to see if timing slipped but don't have tool for removing crankshaft bolt ATM.

Now I need to figure out if the engine if FUBAR. My guess is yes.

 

Belts look pretty rough under there, but not broken, it doesn't appear.. Perhaps the timing belt jumped teeth. Replace the timing belt, but you mentioned bent valves, so you could first try researching and doing a leakdown test to check for that before spending money and labor replacing belt, water pump, pullies etc. Did the Accord you bought ever run right for you?

 

What you are seeing to the side is not a gasket or a separate belt, but part of the timing belt that split off along the edge. It seems to rejoin together as a single belt lower, but I still can't see much before I get the lower cover off. It ate it bit into the upper cover and on the upper cover and pretty significantly on the lower. Also the timing belt does not appear to move. Shouldn't spinning the crankshaft pulley move the belt as well as the distro rotor? Neither moved, not even when starting the car. I should probably stop turning the key .
Anyways not much I can do before I get the pulley tool. I guess I'll pop the valve cover tomorrow and pretend I know WTF I'm looking at. .

Thanks for the reply

 

https://imgur.com/Rr989Vt
That thar be one of them C27 V6s.

P0305- Misfire on Cylinder Five
This could be a faulty ignition component, loose plug, worn plug, low or no EGR flow at part throttle, or valves out of adjustment. But I don't recall if the C27 engine is mechanical or hydraulic lifters.

P1362- TDC(top dead center) sensor, no signal
This could be from a dirty sensor, loose connection, or failed sensor.
This sensor is located down on the crankshaft sprocket, if the belt is damaged or broke it may have taken out the wiring harness to this sensor.

P1382- CYP(cylinder position) sensor, no signal
This could be from a dirty sensor, loose connection, or failed sensor
This sensor may also be located down on teh crankshaft sprocket. Look for damage or grease covering the sensor.

P1491- EGR(exhaust gas valve), insufficient lift.
This could be from either a leaking or faulty vacuum hose or EGR valve diaphragm, or possible a damaged sensor that is not registering lift.

That damaged belt may have done something to the two sensors, if so the engine would die with no references for the ignition and injectors.

 

Turning the crank bolt inside the drivers side wheel well should turn the engine, and all connected to it, and that includes camshaft, which you should be able to see turning at the distributor.

I get mixed up about Accord generations, but on my 4th Gen Accord, the engine cranks counterclockwise. So if I'm standing there with breaker bar in hand, I would move the bar handle counterclockwise, the same way my engine turns when running.

If your engine turns like mine, but you have already turned the crank pully clockwise, you might have jumped teeth on the sprockets yourself.

 

Yob,

I hope you get this fixed. Unless someone is trying to kill you that moment, never continue to drive an aluminum block or aluminum head engine when the temperature is going past "normal."

That typed, I did it once on a date since I didn't want my (then) potential new GF to know my 1975 Pontiac Bonneville had any problems. However, those came with steel blocks and heads. Overheating wasn't that big of a deal and I made it back to campus. *Hole in radiator, got new radiator. Girl went back with old BF, date was a "one off."