So I bought a 98 civic cheap its the lx 4 door model. Only passanger rear window works. Driver window was all way down so I bought a new window motor assembly, didnt fix it. It rolled up and down when I supply 12 volts do red/yellow wire and geound red/blue wire or backwards depending on operation. Next thing I assumed was switch. Went to salvage yard got switch and still only rear passenger window works I have not messed with pass front or driver back as they were in up position already. Can anyone please help with this one? All fuses are good. Maybe salvage yard switch bad?

 

Check for broken wires in the driver's door harness. All the window circuits go through it.

 

But my rear passanger works. In seriously thinking of making them manual windows

 

There are separate wires for each window. But they all go to the driver's door.

I don't think it is too complicated to swap to manual windows but you do have to replace the whole regulator assembly at each one.

 

Na I'm gonna do it like a boss lol. I got a 97 4 door dx at my parants house front end colision I'm sealing all four doors and gonna drop in my sound system I just gotta wait till sunday

 

There is another recent thread about this issue:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...indow-3328211/

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-down-3282447/

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-door-3328075/





Roll the dice. Your window symptoms can be any one of those wires at any of the door jambs. In my case it was both the front driver and passenger sides. Try wiggling your driver's door wire harness while you're moving the switches around. I bet you some of those windows will jump around. I've already done this repair a few years ago. It's holding up quite nicely still. I taped the harness, wire loomed, then taped again.

Just curious.. Why would you go through the trouble of swapping all four regulators when you can repair a couple of wires and add value and convenience back to the car? Don't forget you're also gonna have to cut holes in the door panels or find new ones.

 

So I used my light tester with the red/yellow and red/blue wires. Those are the same wires I used jumper wires to the battery to roll the window up. I pushed the wire ends into the pins of the connector at the switch. So I know those wires are good from the switch connector to the motor. Anywho, when the switch is connected and I probe the red/yellow or red/blue wires with my test light I recieve no power indicator. I k ow one of those wires provides power and other is ground depending on switch position so the fact that the switch does not provide power could that mean the switch has failed?

 

Did you try conducting the same test on your rear right window switch wiring? Did you also make sure the other windows weren't disabled with that little master switch thingy turned off?

 

I'm not sure I understood your testing methods, can you clarify?

OP, a better way is to check for continuity according to the FSM if you're still super convinced it's the switch despite swapping it out:



I'm still convinced your door wiring is shot.

 

I second this. Use the above method to test the switch first. All the window wiring goes into the driver do, into the one switch. Its very easy to pull back the rubber boot and see if there are any loose wires. Similar issue happened to me and I had 3 wires that were damaged.

 

this is a very common issue with the 96-00 sedans. much less work to repair the wiring than to gut all 4 doors and swap in manual parts.