jdm b18c 11.1 on 93 pump gas
11.1? Are you referring to compression? This is a VERY vague question.
Even these old-as-**** ECUs are capable of compensating most N/A modification to a certain extent, on their own, without the need of our meddling; I.E. any tuning programs. Some cases, you'll just end up stripping your car of fuel economy and MAYBE being able to do justice to the mods you've installed. I have been working on my tune for about 2 months now and just about have it where I want it, but I have lost about 125 miles per tank of gas. I would say unless you're going boosted or some radical, ground-up N/A build, I wouldn't bother with a tune. I choose to do so to learn as I am piecing together a boost setup But unless learning is your interest, or you're just a glutton for punishment; you're setting yourself up for some MASSIVE unnecessary headaches.
Even these old-as-**** ECUs are capable of compensating most N/A modification to a certain extent, on their own, without the need of our meddling; I.E. any tuning programs. Some cases, you'll just end up stripping your car of fuel economy and MAYBE being able to do justice to the mods you've installed. I have been working on my tune for about 2 months now and just about have it where I want it, but I have lost about 125 miles per tank of gas. I would say unless you're going boosted or some radical, ground-up N/A build, I wouldn't bother with a tune. I choose to do so to learn as I am piecing together a boost setup But unless learning is your interest, or you're just a glutton for punishment; you're setting yourself up for some MASSIVE unnecessary headaches.
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From: Democratic People's Republic of Khalifornia
If you're referring to 11.1 AFR, that's richer than I'd like to see on a turbo car. On NA, you'd want to shoot for about 12.5. Go get it tuned if you're at those values. Yes, you can run the car. No, it won't be optimal. Yes, things will wear out faster.
If you're referring to 11:1 compression, I'd recommend getting a good pair of detcans and just running the car hard while listening for knock. Hear nothing, see nothing, say nothing is the general motto I follow. Additionally, the ECU itself will have some sort of ignition retard if you hit knock, which will compensate for it, but ideally, you want to get it dialed in so the ECU doesn't have to make huge compensations (most of them are only good for about 10% off of the values they're supposed to see).
If you're referring to 11:1 compression, I'd recommend getting a good pair of detcans and just running the car hard while listening for knock. Hear nothing, see nothing, say nothing is the general motto I follow. Additionally, the ECU itself will have some sort of ignition retard if you hit knock, which will compensate for it, but ideally, you want to get it dialed in so the ECU doesn't have to make huge compensations (most of them are only good for about 10% off of the values they're supposed to see).
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From: Democratic People's Republic of Khalifornia
Ideally, you want to get it dyno tuned and then have that tune verified on street by driving it around to make sure there's no "problem areas". A dyno will get you number for number, but it won't exactly be a proper representation of real world conditions. If it is dyno tuned, (hopefully) your tuner will be listening for knock, so it shouldn't be an issue. If your tuner doesn't bother with that step, your ECU will still pull timing if it detects knock and a CEL will tell you that there's an issue and you tell your tuner. Make sure you have your tuner tune on the fuel type you will be using.
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