I'm a girl & new, so please don't hate on my technical skills. I will explain as best I can. I have a 2000 Civic VP that had a factory radio. I wanted MP3 access with AUX or USB....whatever. I got a free Jensen radio from my boyfriend's dad & BF tried to install (jensen radio image), but said we needed a different wiring harness. I ordered one off of Amazon that was made for my car by Metra (wiring harness 1 & 2, just of both ends). He installed that radio & all was well, except volume control didn't work. Next I went to Wal-Mart & got a cheap, but had good reviews, receiver by XO Vision (see Xo vision image). He has had my dash all taken apart for about 2 weeks. Anyway, he tries installing that radio & it wouldn't even power on. He checked to see if it would turn on when wires touched battery. It didn't, so I went & exchanged for same radio at walmart. He tried installing that and it wouldn't turn on in car, but this one WILL turn on if wires attached to battery. So, by this point, I'm done dealing with it & tell to just put original factory radio back in. NOW, This won't even work. Any suggestions? Grwatly appreciate you taking the time to read my post!!!

 

Check engine bay fuses.

 

^ Yes there is a fuse in the box near the battery, called "BACK UP" that supplies the "always on" power wire to the radio.

It would be good to use a voltmeter to confirm if the wires are or are not powered to simplify testing.

 

When you get the voltmeter, it would be a good idea to pick up some crimpable wire connectors. Way better than electric tape. I'm being a little snarky because I've dealt with this in the past! Save yourself from the unknown!

 

As mentioned, a fuse is blown, it may be the radio acc. fuse or the "back up" fuse as mentioned.

A 12V test light, [$2-$5 at any auto parts store] is the best way to check, plug in the Metra harness and test the yellow, [12V constant] and red, [12V switched] leads for power, the red switched lead is fused at the under dash fuse box, the yellow constant power lead is fused in the engine bay fuse box, [back up fuse]. 94

 

Also, get the dropkick boyfriend to disconnect the battery next time he mucks around with the vehicle electrical (ie., when he attempts to install a receiver for the 4th time).

 

LOL ditto the above^^^ 94

 

Fuses are all good.

 

The radio won't work with even the factory harness. Metra harness was for aftermarket radio. NOTHING works now & he says fuses are all good.

 

Test relevant fuses like this:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...fuses-3079359/

 

Did he cut the factory wires? I hope not.

The way an adapter harness is supposed to work is you splice the harness to the radio, then go out to the car, remove the stock radio, plug the factory plugs into the adapter thus to the new radio, and it works.

You need to do what was mentioned above, test with a voltmeter or test light and confirm that power is reaching the red and yellow wires (standard aftermarket color code-- the factory wires are a different color but you don't need to touch them) of the new radio.

 

He didn't cut the factory wires. Will try that. We just got both voltmeter & test light from his dad. Will let you know! Thank you everyone for your responses!

 

he is wrong, a fuse is blown. either the radio fuse in car, or the inline fuse on the radio's harness. PLEASE don't let him do anything else to your car in the future, this is about as easy as it gets. please invest the $5 at harbor freight on a multimeter. a test light in the hands of someone as inexperienced as your boyfriend can be a dangerous thing. Airbags will pop when the circuit they are connected to receives a ground. Your basic test light sends a ground to whatever it is youre testing. if you are using a test light and you hit an airbag circuit, it will pop the airbag.

 

You may also need to trade the boyfriend in for an upgraded model.

 

Yeah after I got pissed off enough, he figured out it was the radio fuse after all that ****.

 

figured it was. its pretty damned hard to blow a fuse using an adapter harness, unless he was wiring with it plugged in, lol.

 

Did he even disconnect the battery at all?
When dealing with ANYTHING electric on a car(speakers, automatic doors, even a light bulb) always disconnect the battery.
You can check the fuse but fuses usually don't blow if the negative cable is unhooked from the battery.

 

Testing a fuse with a multimeter on continuity, [or even on DC volts] is not a sure way as it puts no load on the fuse filament, and a broken, [not blown] filament will not only look good but can even test good with no load on it, the best way is with an ordinary, [not LED type] 12V test light in the fuse box, probing both test tips, ign. switch on.

And as has been mentioned, disconnect the batt. neg. lead anytime your doing electrical work on your car, [except when testing fuses]. 94

 

+1 I was still getting 2v on my radio positive and couldn't figure it out for a bit being a dumb *** but the fuse was blown.