What the hell? Why dose it look like I have two vtec silinoids on my transmission? Near my head I have the one... it's a jdm d15b vtec

 

Post a pic of the head code.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post48684945

 

Those are the transmission solenoids. One engages the overdrive gear (4th) and the other locks the torque converter. The ECU does both of those when appropriate while cruising at highway speed. Going through the first 3 gears is mechanically controlled by the transmission internally.

You also have a VTEC solenoid of some sort, the one up higher which is on the head instead of the transmission.

 

Cool thanks that explaines it haha...

 

P2j-2

 

D16Y8 or D16Y5 head on a D15B block.

 

The guy I bought it from said he bought a re built engine for it from whatever kind of pick a part out here in Vegas... I Googled the p2j2 code and it says it's an automatic head that comes on my car (makes more sense now lol) so yeah d16y8 head on a d15b block... I had some unfortunat trouble I think my engine might be fried or maybe I am okay cause I was driving around and my **** started slowing the when I finally got off the freeway and to a gas station I found that my I guess it's called relay hose the one the curves from the thermostat next to the heater hose back into the block burst so I fixed that found out my thermostat wasn't there so got that an gasket, upper and lower radiator hoses and then noticed that I'm guessing it had the wrong plugs in it or something cause they we're stuck in the cables so tight that it ripped the plug wires when I went to pull them to do a plug reading (reading came out normal) so I replaced the plugs and wires and now the **** won't fire the cap and rotor look like new still only thing I can think now is either it's toast or head gasket us blown... I've never done a head gasket job before and I can't check the timing due to the engine not even firing up now it cranks over and sounds like it wants to but it's like it lost the will to live...

 

The wires melted onto the plugs because of severe overheating. That's not a good sign.

Do a compression test. Make sure to disconnect low voltage wires at the distributor so you don't burn out the coil firing into an open circuit.

Remove the upper timing belt cover and check cam timing marks. If the cam is properly timed and the distributor is set to the center of the adjustment range, it should at least start.

 

okay for sure I can do everything except a pressure test I have to see if I know someone with a reader... if not it'll have to wait till I can rent one from az

 

1st sign of trouble right there. I would've never believe this guy if he stated some b.s. like that. No pull-a-part, wrench-a-part, pick-a-part, *insert whatever*-a-part has EVER offered rebuilt engines. EVER.

 

Thats good advice for the future of car buying thank you... imma go with what the previous person said and see if I can fix the problem...

 

The head code does not provide as much detailed information as you think it does. The head could be from a D16Y5 or D16Y8, though I understand why you would assume it's the D16Y8 head from the original engine.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...-here-3210150/

 

Oh okay I see what you are saying... yeah considering the guy I got the car from spoke broken English I am sure he didn't really know what he was doing lol

 

I'm pretty sure that English proficiency has nothing to do with car knowledge.

Instead, focus your thinking here --> Caveat emptor

 

Yeah for sure... it was in good condition its just (not to get into my personal situation to much but) I just recently got rid of squatters they know my routeens like when Im asleep when i leave abd come home from work etc... so I think they may have snuck on my property and drained my radiator at one point cause I havent been able to drive my car around for a few weeks now since I have to get new insurance and now that I did this happened... I know that their is no way in hell all my radiator fluids could have evapt in a weeks time since I checked my fluid levels last and Capt everything off to be ready to get driving around again... the only problem I've ever had is just it bogging down when going up hills traveling to my moms place an hour and a half away...

 

You said that there was a blown hose after the overheating on the freeway. That's where the coolant went.

After someone kept driving overheated until the car stopped because of it, the engine is almost always toast.

 

Thats what I was figuring... screw it im just going to save up and drop in a gsr engine lol... obviously it'll be done right since I've done it 3 times before already...