hey all,
i have a 98 civic ex that iv swapped a b18c1 into, im running my stock harness and using a conversion harness for an obd1 P-72 ecu. it has a skunk2 IM in it and an aftermarket exhaust. iv got the motor installed and it ran good for about 50 miles before it just shut off on me, i got it home and was not getting any spark, i replaced the distributer with a new 1 from rock auto (came with cap and rotor) and got it to start. after playing with ignition timing and idle valve it seems to idle fine. Now when i take it out to drive it, it lacks alot of power in at least 1st and 2nd gear, when reversing out of my driveway (small hill) it wont make it up it unless i rev it while playing with the clutch. its doesnt throw any codes either. so far iv checked the valve timing which was spot on, adjusted the ignition timing, iv looked at my plugs which all 4 looked fine, the plugs, wires, PCV valve, and fuel filter are pretty new, i had replaced them about 200 miles before the SOHC motor went out. any help in resolving is greatly appreciated.

 

Firing order is wrong

 

you know i had not double checked that today, when i was putting the new dizzy in i unplugged the wires 1 at a time from the old 1 and placed it in the same port in the new 1. ill check the fireing order first thing in the morning

 

does it sound like the firing order is off? The car would run pretty rough. You hadn't mentioned a dodgy idle or anything....

 

You hear a lot of bad things about non-OEM distributors. I wouldn't be surprised to find that was the issue.

I would suspect weak spark. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, ignitor... Or just a crappy brand dizzy.


As for replacing your original dizzy, it's often just the ignitor or coil.

 

You mentioned "playing with the ignition timing". Have you followed the service manual procedure to the tee with the service connector jumped and using a timing gun?

Does the CEL work?

 

hey thanks for the replies. the firing order is correct, when i adjusted the timing i shorted the service check connector and moved it in small increments until i got it where i thought it should be, i used a timing light on it but was during the day and wasnt able to see the marks on the pulley very clearly. yes the CEL does work, it would throw code 15 (ignition output) when i had the old dizzy on it and cranked the motor for few times, when i short the service connector the CEL comes on and stays on (no blinking). The distributor i ordered was CARDONE SELECT 8417408. i am curious about maybe taking the ignitor from the new dizzy and putting it in the old 1 to see if itll start, its just raining right now.

 

The ignition timing is set by aligning the pointer on the timing belt cover with the red mark (middle mark in group of three) on the crank pulley. The engine also must be idling to spec. Is that what you did?

 

Cardone Select distributors are pretty decent. I don't think that's the issue. You said you had to play with the idle to get it right.

You sure the valve timing is good?

 

i wasnt able to see the marks on the pulley very well when i last used the timing gun on it, ill try this again however and get back to you. yesterday i took the crank pulley off and turned the crank TDC (timing gear knotch lined up with the arrow on oil pump) and both cams were aligned at the the "up" at 12 o clock, also took the dizzy cap off and the rotor was at cylinder 1

 

so i just used a timing light to adjust the ignition timing, when i was looking for the 3 marks on the crankshaft they appear to be way forward (towards the front car car) and wont line with the mark on the lower timing cover even if the dizzy is all in way in 1 direction or other. does this mean have have to re check the valve timing again?

 

If you can properly set the ignition timing, then by definition, the mechanical timing is fine. If not, the mechanical timing is off, assuming your engine is idling to spec.

 

The UP marks shouldn't be at 12 o clock when everything is set....and they can't be used to set or determine final timing.

Start with the crank set at TDC, with the cams phased so that the arrows are pointing UPwards. This tells you that you are at piston 1 TDC and in the right ballpark of cam timing.

now...find the two marks on the the cam gears ^shown above. They MUST be lined up with each other (pointing DIRECTLY at each other). Those two marks are what set timing.

Under this condition, you'll find that the arrows do poit upwards...but not exactly at 12 o'clock.

I'd check the valve timing again. A tooth off at the two gear marks will make a huge difference in how the car runs.

 

thanks ill check it out

 

Let us know how that worked out. I edited my post to be more clear, BTW.

 

so i lined the crankshaft tdc knotch with the marker on the timing cover and then took a closer look at the cam gears and i only suppose i need those 2 knotches on the cams to be lined up. should be able to just loosen the tensioner for a little bit of belt slack and then move each of them 1 tooth?

 

Your timing belt is probably worn.

Change that too. Unless you just did

 

yes the timing belt is new. just lined up the cams and started it, now im letting it warm up before i put the short in the service connecter and use the timing light again

 

so that appears to have fixed it, thanks everyone for your help