---PERFORMANCE---
HONDATA S300: $500
Garrett GTX2860R Turbo with housing: $1350
Intercooler and piping: $500
Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump: $70
RC 500CC Injectors: $390
AEM Fuel Rail: $100
CP Forged Pistons Eagle Rods Combo Kit 10.5:1:869.99
Eagle 3.031 Forged Crank: $621.50
Competition 12lb flywheel: $170
ARP HeadStuds: $139.99
Cometic Head Gasket 82mm .030: $98.24
Skunk2 tuner series Camshafts stage 3:$600
Skunk2 Tuner Valve springs w/ Skunk2 titanium retainers :$410
AEM Tru-Time Cam gears: $205
BLOX Racing Power Intake Manifold: $190
(Undecided top mount turbo exhaust manifold)
3" exhaust
---SUSPENSION---
TEIN Super Street Damper W/ Pillow Ball Upper Mount: $1320
Blox LCA: $110
Blackworks Subframe Brace: $150
Tanabe 25.4mm Front Sway bar: $245
Tanabe 20mm Rear Sway Bar: $245
---Brakes---
Front & Rear drilled/slotted Disc Brake Kit Wilwood: $1600
Stoptech SS Braided Brake Line Kit:$156
---cosmetic---
15x8" XXR 531
Custom Interior

Total: $10,044+


What do you think? Too much? Too little? Do some parts not work with Each other? Any input is helpful.

P.S. Don't be a ********.

 

I think you need to do a ton more research before you think about dropping $10,000 on a 30 year old car. Too much in some spots, way too little in others.

You need to outline a goal first. No car will be great at everything. You need a power level, what kind of racing (if any) you plan on doing, and whether or not you want to be able to comfortably drive this on the street.

Lets start with the motor, the turbo, the suspension, and then sum it all up at the end.

Motor: What motor are you even using? A D15? A D16? A B-series? A K-series? I assumed a B-series since that is what is in my car. But I forgot that didn't come stock. You need to have a motor well before you start building it.

The turbo is all sorts of crazy. It is a great turbo. But you don't need a top mount at all. I don't think you are anywhere near that power level. Some of your turbo components are small, particularly the fuel system. Some ID1000s are probably overkill, but if you plan on putting E85 in this you'll want need more injector.

The suspension is strange to me. BLOX stuff isn't highly regarded around here. You went very expensive on some parts and cheap on others, doesn't make sense. You also didn't mention anything about radius rods, which should probably be upgraded to spherical joints at the least. That really helps with wheel hop from what I have heard. I'm not sure what spring rates you want because I have no idea what you plan on doing with this car. I don't know what kind of ride height you plan on setting up either.

Brakes are useless in a lot of situations. If this is a drag car, which is why you would use a top mount manifold, you really don't need multi piston brake calipers. You probably wouldn't even be able to fit them inside 13" drag wheels.

TL;DR

In conclusion, you need to keep on thinking. You have to set a goal first and foremost. You should outline a total budget also.

 

Right sorry about that, it's a b16A2, horsepower goals anywhere from 350-400hp crank.

 

I like your realistic power goals that should be easy to achieve. some of your parts are not required for your goals. do some more homework on your suspension cause from what your looking at now, I would not like it at speed.

KONI FTW

 

And my plan is to have a comfortable daily driver (no interior stripping) that I can hit the track with

 

Yeah I'm not too good with suspension parts

 

You're missing lots of parts like machine shop work and assembly (assuming you're not doing it) plus the little stuff adds up. I'd assume another $1500-2000 however like its been said you can skip lots of that stuff too.

 

350 crank is probably pretty close to the accepted limits of 300 wHP on a stock motor. So I don't think you need to go crazy! I would shoot for 400 wHP as a maximum goal since you are on stock sleeves but you have upgraded internals. 'TheShodan' would probably have some great advice on a T3 .57 tim-ish turbo for 400-425 wHP with water and oil cooling. Probably in the $1000 range and you will love the response and it would be a PERFECT fit for the power goal. I know I am telling you to step it up a little bit more than your goal, but you can't do internals and not get the use out of them!

Motor Mounts: $200+ HASport/Innovative Steel is cheaper than aluminum and works just as well when the pounds don't count
Axles/Misc swap stuff: $800 You'd be surprised what isn't included with your swap.

P28/S300/Neptune: $500-600+ Depends on price of the ECU and if you buy the product new/used.

Internals: $800
Head Gasket: $60
ARP Head studs: $130
ITR Cams: $??? GSR Will work too, B16 cams are small but will work.
3" Exhaust: $700 Thermal makes one for the EF
3" Downpipe: $200~
Mini Ram/Ram exhaust manifold: $300+
Turbo of your choice: $?? I suggest one with water coolant and oil
750cc+ Injectors: $200+ IDs are popular
Walbro 255: $70 works fine
Intercooler: $100, a used one would work fine
Intercooler piping: $50-??? Honestly, find a used pipe kit. Even eBay would work
BOV: $200 Tial or similar
Wastegate: $200 Tial or similar, 38mm or dependant on exhaust manifold
Catch can: $100+ Endyn is great and easy
Traction bar: $250 I highly suggest one with a 3" downpipe, Innovative is nice.
Radiator: $100+ May need a slim 'EG' style radiator.
Fans: $??? May be able to use a stock one, or you may need a pusher fan. You don't know till you get the downpipe in.

Coilovers: $600 Progress CSII, 350F/350R or whatever you want. That set up is very smooth. $850 Koni/GC they do the rates different. I forget the equivalent. The ride is also different.
LCA: $40 Stock SI
Rear sway bar: $20-200+ I would find a 4-door Integra rear sway bar. I believe it is 22mm or so. Very cheap. Or go new. Your choice
Front sway bar: Stock 15mm and see how it feels before upgrading.

Rear Disc: $150 Stock Si
Front Disc: $150 EX knuckle, ITR caliper, Mini Cooper 11" rotor


If you are serious about this and do some homework, you'll have a nice car. Should be able to see 11's in the straight track, decent auto-x performance (although your classing is going to suck for competition), reliable daily driving, comfortable ride, and little to no sacrifice over stock. You may lose AC if you don't pick an appropriate manifold. I would highly suggest retaining the AC and putting a turbo blanket on, using gold heat reflector, and titanium exhaust wrap where you can. If you can't retain AC, I hope you can live without it.

 

i cant