Need help finding proper turbo service kit...
Hi All,
I need to rebuild my turbo because I blew out the oil seals because I had improper draining and didn't put the oil restrictor in the right place (live and learn right?) here is the link to the turbo I have,
http://www.precisionturbo.net/turboc...-4831B-MFS/552
I looked around Ebay and found a couple of things but are unsure. Does anyone have any recommendations where I can get a decent rebuild kit or oil seals?
I need to rebuild my turbo because I blew out the oil seals because I had improper draining and didn't put the oil restrictor in the right place (live and learn right?) here is the link to the turbo I have,
http://www.precisionturbo.net/turboc...-4831B-MFS/552
I looked around Ebay and found a couple of things but are unsure. Does anyone have any recommendations where I can get a decent rebuild kit or oil seals?
Call up Precision, tell them what happened and see if they have kit they sell. I wouldn't risk a cheap kit on an expensive turbo, especially for what it does.
Sorry to hear that it is toast. Good luck!
Sorry to hear that it is toast. Good luck!
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
You can't really rebuild it yourself, it has to be rebalanced which is something you cannot do yourself.
Even if you scribe the turbine shaft, compressor wheel, and shaft nut when you go to torque down the shaft nut everything will rotate out of alignment slightly, meaning the rotating assembly is no longer balanced.
An unbalanced CHRA won't last any real amount of time and the damage from doing so would require you to have to buy what amounts to a whole new CHRA.
You can send the the turbo out to a few companies and have it properly rebuilt and balanced starting around 250. This of course assumes that major parts don't need to be replaced.
If you rebuild it yourself then send it out to be balanced you're looking at 50-80 dollars at minimum plus shipping both ways.
Or you can just send it to precision and have them do it all.
Even if you scribe the turbine shaft, compressor wheel, and shaft nut when you go to torque down the shaft nut everything will rotate out of alignment slightly, meaning the rotating assembly is no longer balanced.
An unbalanced CHRA won't last any real amount of time and the damage from doing so would require you to have to buy what amounts to a whole new CHRA.
You can send the the turbo out to a few companies and have it properly rebuilt and balanced starting around 250. This of course assumes that major parts don't need to be replaced.
If you rebuild it yourself then send it out to be balanced you're looking at 50-80 dollars at minimum plus shipping both ways.
Or you can just send it to precision and have them do it all.
Well that kinda sucks. I guess I will take the housing off and clean everything up and re do my oil feed and drain lines like I had planned to (the right way), and maybe it will be OK? I assume my oil seals are broken because I had 1/3 to half a cup of oil come out of the hot side innercooler pipe when I took the J pipe off the turbo.
I just cant see spending nearly$300 on my old turbo for a rebuild. I could sell it for maybe $200-$300 and just double that same money and buy a new one. After reading and being more educated would likely go with a different brand than PTE. Not that their turbos are bad just the one I have is maxed out power wise.
I just cant see spending nearly$300 on my old turbo for a rebuild. I could sell it for maybe $200-$300 and just double that same money and buy a new one. After reading and being more educated would likely go with a different brand than PTE. Not that their turbos are bad just the one I have is maxed out power wise.
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
Likes: 10
From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
If the seal leaked that much oil then it's very likely that the seal has failed and nothing short of replacing it will solve the problem. Of course you can try a better drain and a restrictor but it's probably pointless
I am pretty sure at least a couple of you guys know there isn't an "oil seal" in there.
The piston rings aren't designed to contain the excess oil in the housing, it shouldn't be there, but when it keeps flowing up there and burning, it coats the surfaces, and finds an easier path to the turbine housing.
But as far cleaning, I tried everything I had including oven cleaner which only removed the uncoked oil, hardly any carbonized funk..


before calling John at Majestic...he said bead blast the parts.
Got it like new in minutes.



(Didn't need to blast Comp. wheel, just threw in the pic)
Of course I was very careful on the grooves for the rings, but they came out nice, and taped up the shaft so the bearing surface got minimal bead blast.
IIRC Holsets are component balanced but I still marked everything and yes they moved upon retorque, but I just kept estimating the torque movement and compensated by moving the wheel before torque. Only seven tries to get it to work!
Used a T-handle to loosen to minimize radial (?) effects of my rudimentary equipment, in./lb. torque wrench for tightening...had to.
I had not much to lose since the turbo was cheap. But I still am fond of it and didn't want to waste it. It is doing fine as far as I can tell.
I corrected (or at least greatly improved) my drain problem before this with this bad-*** drain flange
and a new route of hose to side of oil pan.
Scored a Genuine Holset kit from a military surplus dude in Cali.
Kit was NOS (new old stock) made in England just like my trusty H1C (tip of the hat to Rich and his limey brethren) Even same production year!
The piston rings aren't designed to contain the excess oil in the housing, it shouldn't be there, but when it keeps flowing up there and burning, it coats the surfaces, and finds an easier path to the turbine housing.
But as far cleaning, I tried everything I had including oven cleaner which only removed the uncoked oil, hardly any carbonized funk..



before calling John at Majestic...he said bead blast the parts.
Got it like new in minutes.



(Didn't need to blast Comp. wheel, just threw in the pic)
Of course I was very careful on the grooves for the rings, but they came out nice, and taped up the shaft so the bearing surface got minimal bead blast.
IIRC Holsets are component balanced but I still marked everything and yes they moved upon retorque, but I just kept estimating the torque movement and compensated by moving the wheel before torque. Only seven tries to get it to work!

Used a T-handle to loosen to minimize radial (?) effects of my rudimentary equipment, in./lb. torque wrench for tightening...had to.
I had not much to lose since the turbo was cheap. But I still am fond of it and didn't want to waste it. It is doing fine as far as I can tell.
I corrected (or at least greatly improved) my drain problem before this with this bad-*** drain flange

and a new route of hose to side of oil pan.
Scored a Genuine Holset kit from a military surplus dude in Cali.
Kit was NOS (new old stock) made in England just like my trusty H1C (tip of the hat to Rich and his limey brethren) Even same production year!
Last edited by B and B; Sep 30, 2014 at 06:39 PM.
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If there are no "oil seals" than what needs to be fixed? See below where the oil is coming from. Now this happened after the head gasket blew and I didn't have my oil restrictor in the right place and my drain was poor. The exhaust side was wet with coolant mostly. It may have had oil but hard to tell with exhaust residue. Also this turbo has like no miles on it like less than 3k from brand new. I also over filled the motor with oil by a qt. I mis remembered the amounts as 5qt was for a complete breakdown and 4 is for regular oil change, well I put 5 in. There is nothing wrong with the turbo otherwise ( no shaft play or rubbing on housing). Could it be I just need to clean it up and that's it? I assume some oil was coming out on the compressor side that something HAD to be messed up.
Who is Mr Robot?
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,474
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
the compressor side has a seal. the turbine side uses a piston ring to seal the turbine side.
We simply call them seals because they seal oil in the CHRA.
if oil is leaking past the shaft then you've killed a seal.
We simply call them seals because they seal oil in the CHRA.
if oil is leaking past the shaft then you've killed a seal.
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