Turbo d16z6
Not going to happen in your budget. D series motors can't get past 200 without forged internals, and the absolute bare minimum to do a functional, reliable DIY turbo setup is $1500. Either lower your expectations a little bit, and raise your budget a little bit, or keep your expectations, and raise your budget a lot.
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220 is the safe limit for stock d series internals on pump gas. the rods are super thin.
1000 dollars won't get you anywhere. that would cover the cost of a chipped ecu, tuning software (s300, Neptune, crime, etc), a wideband, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, and a stronger clutch.
you're looking at another 2000-2500 easy for a quality "bolt on" turbo kit using all quality, proven parts.
you could probably do a junkyard setup with a dsm t25 or a dsm 14b/16g with an hx mani and adapter plate.
or a 60 trim t3 off of an svo mustang or thunderbird with a generic cast eBay manifold, dsm 450 injectors, resistor box, used walbro 255, the free version of crome, 1 step colder spark plugs, used wideband o2 system (mandatory imo) and you need at minimum and in addition to the wideband a boost gauge and an oil pressure gauge.
depending on mileage it would be a good idea to get a new cap and rotor for the distributor as well as new plug wires,
a 3bar map sensor if you run more than 10-11psi as that's all the stock one will read, oil feed line and return line kit, someone to weld the return fitting to the oil pan, a 2.5" downpipe and exhaust (3" would be better but it costs more), a generic eBay intercooler and piping kit, generic bov (name brand would be better), generic wastegate (again name brand
TiAL, Turbosmart, Turbonetics, etc is better) or stay with the internal wg on the t3 60 trim and block off the wg port on the manifold. You also need some type of boost controller since IIRC the 60 t3 had a low pressure wastegate actuator. a quality manual unit would be fine.
you still need an upgraded clutch... buy a new one, the eBay special clutches are cheap and would work fine for you. ARP headstuds are a given as d series are notorious for head lifting under boost, you'd need a new OEM hg as well.
That's more than 1,000 but still under 2,500.. Probably around 1750-2200 if you know where to look for parts and find deals. however that doesn't cover the labor cost of install (if you doubt you can install it properly then go to a reputable shop and let the pros do it), fabricating the downpipe (you can easily find a generic downpipe on eBay that fits the ford 5 bolt turbine outlet and the generic cast manifold)and the exhaust.. people offer piping kits but they still have to be fitted and welded, however you can probably find a cheap Chinese special 2.5" exhaust on eBay.
it still needs to be tuned, you cannot drive the car around on a basemap. figure at least 400-500 for dyno tuning.
how many miles on the motor? are you sure the motor is healthy enough for forced induction? you need to do a compression test with the motor hot at least, doing a leakdown test at the same time would be a good idea..
if your compression numbers are low (below 160) and have more than a 10% difference across all 4 cylinders then it's not a good idea to boost that motor... it would be nothing more than s ticking time bomb.
You've gotta play to pay and modifying cars isn't cheap. do it right or don't do it at all.
cheap
fast
reliable
pick two because that's what your build will be.
I strongly suggest you read the forced induction FAQs at the top of this forum numerous times so you have an understanding of what all is needed to turbocharge a Honda and how to do it properly
1000 dollars won't get you anywhere. that would cover the cost of a chipped ecu, tuning software (s300, Neptune, crime, etc), a wideband, bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, and a stronger clutch.
you're looking at another 2000-2500 easy for a quality "bolt on" turbo kit using all quality, proven parts.
you could probably do a junkyard setup with a dsm t25 or a dsm 14b/16g with an hx mani and adapter plate.
or a 60 trim t3 off of an svo mustang or thunderbird with a generic cast eBay manifold, dsm 450 injectors, resistor box, used walbro 255, the free version of crome, 1 step colder spark plugs, used wideband o2 system (mandatory imo) and you need at minimum and in addition to the wideband a boost gauge and an oil pressure gauge.
depending on mileage it would be a good idea to get a new cap and rotor for the distributor as well as new plug wires,
a 3bar map sensor if you run more than 10-11psi as that's all the stock one will read, oil feed line and return line kit, someone to weld the return fitting to the oil pan, a 2.5" downpipe and exhaust (3" would be better but it costs more), a generic eBay intercooler and piping kit, generic bov (name brand would be better), generic wastegate (again name brand
TiAL, Turbosmart, Turbonetics, etc is better) or stay with the internal wg on the t3 60 trim and block off the wg port on the manifold. You also need some type of boost controller since IIRC the 60 t3 had a low pressure wastegate actuator. a quality manual unit would be fine.
you still need an upgraded clutch... buy a new one, the eBay special clutches are cheap and would work fine for you. ARP headstuds are a given as d series are notorious for head lifting under boost, you'd need a new OEM hg as well.
That's more than 1,000 but still under 2,500.. Probably around 1750-2200 if you know where to look for parts and find deals. however that doesn't cover the labor cost of install (if you doubt you can install it properly then go to a reputable shop and let the pros do it), fabricating the downpipe (you can easily find a generic downpipe on eBay that fits the ford 5 bolt turbine outlet and the generic cast manifold)and the exhaust.. people offer piping kits but they still have to be fitted and welded, however you can probably find a cheap Chinese special 2.5" exhaust on eBay.
it still needs to be tuned, you cannot drive the car around on a basemap. figure at least 400-500 for dyno tuning.
how many miles on the motor? are you sure the motor is healthy enough for forced induction? you need to do a compression test with the motor hot at least, doing a leakdown test at the same time would be a good idea..
if your compression numbers are low (below 160) and have more than a 10% difference across all 4 cylinders then it's not a good idea to boost that motor... it would be nothing more than s ticking time bomb.
You've gotta play to pay and modifying cars isn't cheap. do it right or don't do it at all.
cheap
fast
reliable
pick two because that's what your build will be.
I strongly suggest you read the forced induction FAQs at the top of this forum numerous times so you have an understanding of what all is needed to turbocharge a Honda and how to do it properly
Make up your mind. Don't want to spend more than a grand and now money isn't an option. This isn't a cheap hobby.
Advice: Go read all teh FAQs and build threads you can get your hands on.
Advice: Go read all teh FAQs and build threads you can get your hands on.
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C'mon guys go easy on the guy! Let clarify this a bit do you mean 1000 to 1500 just turbo itself? or 1500 on the whole setup? If the whole setup it not happening period! If turbo alone for that price range pm TheShodan he will get you square away.
He didn't really help you.
You still need to provide more information. Solid budget. So far it's gone from one grand to three. Horsepower goal. What car will be used for.
Now get to reading. For this topic having someone hand you the information is not helping you.
You still need to provide more information. Solid budget. So far it's gone from one grand to three. Horsepower goal. What car will be used for.
Now get to reading. For this topic having someone hand you the information is not helping you.
not installed. not tuned. we are talking fmu/missing link which will net you maybe 50+ hp at the wheels...and if you dont spend the $ on fuel management/injectors you will have to replace the engine when it pops.
you cant pay, dont try to play.
yall r trippin, if he does the work himself 250hp with 3g's is easyy, build it with forged rods & vitara pistons, or put it around 200hp and save a lot of work & $$ to buy more quality parts now and plan a motor build and up the boost later on down the road n shoot for 300hp, anyways OP check out the FAQ and see everything you need, be pacient when accumilating parts n make sure anything thats used is good conditiion
Lol 3G for a starter kit..
I guess I was very lucky on my first turbo'd honda in which case I'd bet the most expensive part I bought was injectors lol and that was 200 bucks for some rc's, I had a stock b18b motor and trans made a t3 top mount got a cheap turbosmart gate and a used greddy bov..
I found a good used t3 super 60 rocked that thing on 10-15 psi for almost 6 years on a street tuned using chrome, oh and driving it year round here in canada on 90-91 octane fuel
Lol
I bet I wasn't into it for over 800 bucks all sad and done!
Most fun setup I've had in my car never did anything to it just pounded it and it kept on going lol
I guess I was very lucky on my first turbo'd honda in which case I'd bet the most expensive part I bought was injectors lol and that was 200 bucks for some rc's, I had a stock b18b motor and trans made a t3 top mount got a cheap turbosmart gate and a used greddy bov..
I found a good used t3 super 60 rocked that thing on 10-15 psi for almost 6 years on a street tuned using chrome, oh and driving it year round here in canada on 90-91 octane fuel
Lol
I bet I wasn't into it for over 800 bucks all sad and done!
Most fun setup I've had in my car never did anything to it just pounded it and it kept on going lol
Yeah the 3g for a kit is a little off goautoworks street kit is price at 2k very decent kit http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gocotuki.html
****, revhard kits 10 years ago were about 2700..
inflation adjustment included in my prior statement. also, yes, you can find **** cheaper online, but youre not saying what type of condition et cetera...and cheap turbo kits on ebay are just that. theyre ******* **** you shouldnt bother buying to begin with.
im done. you ignorant ***** can blow yourselves and your motors while youre at it.
inflation adjustment included in my prior statement. also, yes, you can find **** cheaper online, but youre not saying what type of condition et cetera...and cheap turbo kits on ebay are just that. theyre ******* **** you shouldnt bother buying to begin with.
im done. you ignorant ***** can blow yourselves and your motors while youre at it.
****, revhard kits 10 years ago were about 2700..
inflation adjustment included in my prior statement. also, yes, you can find **** cheaper online, but youre not saying what type of condition et cetera...and cheap turbo kits on ebay are just that. theyre ******* **** you shouldnt bother buying to begin with.
im done. you ignorant ***** can blow yourselves and your motors while youre at it.
inflation adjustment included in my prior statement. also, yes, you can find **** cheaper online, but youre not saying what type of condition et cetera...and cheap turbo kits on ebay are just that. theyre ******* **** you shouldnt bother buying to begin with.
im done. you ignorant ***** can blow yourselves and your motors while youre at it.
It may be cheaper, but you stand a greater chance of mismatching components and spending more money getting it right. If you're buying used then you run a greater risk of getting parts with dubious history. I too went this route but the hassle and wait was almost not worth it. I almost wound up selling parts halfway through collecting. And to be frank, people that piece together bargain basement junkyard setups wind up looking like **** and they don't perform all that well (take offense if it pertains to you).
Can the OP replicate sub-$1k builds? Probably not. I'll put money that he pops for an eBay kit and runs with no engine management.
Can the OP replicate sub-$1k builds? Probably not. I'll put money that he pops for an eBay kit and runs with no engine management.
i've done it...it can be done...
buuuuuutttttt
it will take time to peice together, some good haggling skillz, and you need to know people
stock d16 will hold 250 just fine on a good tune...220 on a d15...again on a good tune.
if you are asking basic questions you need to do waaaaayyyyyy more reading and research. my first turbo setup cost a whopping 800 or so tuned, but it took alot of patients and research to do it
buuuuuutttttt
it will take time to peice together, some good haggling skillz, and you need to know people
stock d16 will hold 250 just fine on a good tune...220 on a d15...again on a good tune.
if you are asking basic questions you need to do waaaaayyyyyy more reading and research. my first turbo setup cost a whopping 800 or so tuned, but it took alot of patients and research to do it
It may be cheaper, but you stand a greater chance of mismatching components and spending more money getting it right. If you're buying used then you run a greater risk of getting parts with dubious history. I too went this route but the hassle and wait was almost not worth it. I almost wound up selling parts halfway through collecting. And to be frank, people that piece together bargain basement junkyard setups wind up looking like **** and they don't perform all that well (take offense if it pertains to you).
Can the OP replicate sub-$1k builds? Probably not. I'll put money that he pops for an eBay kit and runs with no engine management.
Can the OP replicate sub-$1k builds? Probably not. I'll put money that he pops for an eBay kit and runs with no engine management.
OP just dont forget research definitely plays a HUGE part in it because as grumblemarc stated before it will just end up more expensive if its not done correctly or without proper parts/equipment, and whatever you do, don't buy an eBay kit or it will be a disaster, those kits aren't complete either..
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