Forgive me, my age is getting the better of me here. Remembering torque spec's for aftermarket parts is an endless struggle. LOL!

Just about to assemble my engine. I bought a used engine with the Manley turbo-tuff's already installed, so, I do not have the spec sheet or bolt part number.

Rods are for a B18c engine. Bolts are ARP 2000 - 7/16" head, I will be using 30wt oil (I do not have Manleys torquing lubricant and they do not recommend using ARP's moly lube) bolts have been stretched to spec from the previous build.

I tried looking it up. coming up with a range around 60ft-lb with 30wt oil. Engine will only be seeing about 500hp.

Can anyone confirm the spec off the top of their head?

I was too busy at work today to call Manley personally and they are now closed for the day.

 

You should really measure it with a stretch gage. That's the proper way of doing it.

 

I realize that is the proper way. I don't have access to proper rod bolt gauge. Which is why I just need the torque spec. I am not pushing enough power for the torque to be exactly .006" stretch (which is Manley's spec, I believe).

 

http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/...4340-ibeam.pdf

45-55 ft/lbs. You should be replacing the bolts, though.

 

Proper is proper regardless of power levels. Suit yourself and good luck.

 

Without the original length the stretch method is useless anyways. The bolts could be out of limit already especially if they were bench prepped. New bolts would be recommended in this case. High or low power is only some of the equation - RPM kills.

 

Thanks, for some reason I looked over that PDF, but I must have overlooked it since the spec started with Small-block Chev.

I hear you, I am typically not one to skip steps like this. Although I am on a deadline for a tuning session, this is my personal street car, I have re-used rod bolts before and spun the engine to 9000 frequently without issue.
I know my luck COULD run out on this engine, but at this point I am willing to risk it.

Correct, I bought this engine (originally assembled by Ramey Built) with only 200miles of break-in and dyno tuning on it. I have torn it down, done more machine work and inspected everything. Unfortunately I didn't think to even buy new rod bolts. Regardless, I do not know the original length, so bolt stretch is useless, nor would I know if they are out of their limits. Like stated above, I have successfully re-used rod bolts on my personal engines and never had an issue up to 9000rpm. I know it is not good practice and there is a substantial risk involved, but for a personal street/****-around car, I am willing to take it at this point.

I understand everyone's recommendations, I would do the same to a "customer" engine....

Thanks everyone for the help