Hey guys sorry in advance for not searching. On my way to check out a b18c itr engine full swap. Engine is off the car already. What should I check for to be able to tell if the engine is good. Did a quick search in google. Open valve cover, check oil, oil pan. Is there anything else I should check for? Seller has no idea on mileage or year of engine.

 

Compression test the cylinders.

 

In addition to what you've already mentioned, I've heard you can attempt a hand compression test. Definitely not as reliable as a regular test but if you have a cylinder that doesn't produce any reading with hand spinning the crank (with socket set of course) then you know that cylinder is completely shot. I really don't know how effective that method would be.

Really though, if you can't crank the engine over to at least do a normal dry cold compression test, it's a total gamble purchase.

If you got a spare battery that has a good charge, you can bring it along with some jumper cables. Then you can do a proper cold dry compression test as long as the starter is still hooked up to the motor. Your number will be lower than normal being the motor is cold but you can see consistency between cylinders and get a general idea of the condition of the motor.

 

ill put my vote in for compression/leakdown testing..

 

+1 on compression and leakdown test. I'd opt for taking it to a reputable shop to do a full test as well as inspecting for leaking seals, etc. if possible.

PS. Out of curiosity, is it a '96 or '98 spec engine?

 

Leakdown test > Compression. You can buy a decent OTC tester for $60 on Amazon. It will tell you more then a compression test, and doesn't require you to turn the motor over (more difficult when it isn't in a car, but still doable)

 

Seller doesn't know if 96 or 98 spec. He mentioned that he bought the eg with the engine. I was thinking of renting a kit in autozone to do compression test. Thanks for the advice guys. I will be looking at the engine later today. The engine is 6 hours north of me but we are heading there for another reason and the opportunity came along. Sale price is $2500 no ecu. Do you guys think this is a good deal? I've been looking around and they range in the 4k.

 

I'll look into leakdown test, however the decision to buy the engine and inspect it would have to be done today or tomorrow since I'm 6 hours away.

 

Proceed wisely and carefully. A rush $2500 purchase is risky.

 

Is there any markings on the block that I should look for that will help me determine the spec?

 

Yeah, I'm a bit skeptical about this purchase. It can easily go south and I'll have paper weight.

 

how well do you know who is selling it out of curiosity?

 

I do not know the person at all.

 

im glad im not the one trying to make the decision here..



best of luck and heres to hoping you dont get in trouble for possession of stolen property.

 

Hmm..do I need certain paperwork from the seller regarding the engine? I have a feeling I should just let this one pass.

 

to be honest with you im not certain..



i have no experience in this field so im hoping someone else chimes in that has an idea of what is necessary..

 

Ask seller to e-mail you pictures of the engine VIN so that you can verify that the car/engine does not come up as stolen. If he balks, you have the answer you need.

 

^this.

 

there is no vin on jdm engines and b18c is a jdm engine

i have bought and sold a few of these when i was into hondas and the seller should have some sort of paperwork on which importer it came from

you can also compression test an engine on the ground if you have a transmission and starter. pull all the plugs, rig up the starter to a battery and tap the ground when you want to crank the engine

it will provide cold numbers which are 10-15psi on average lower than warm. 240psi would be a decent cold reading. anything above 250 is virtually mint. if the engine has sat a while a quick shot of wd-40 or pb blaster in the cylinder sparkplug holes is a good idea. cycle by hand a few times before you test

you can tell the year by the date stamp in the head. 95/96 are the 97 spec, i have never seen a 97 stamp but they could be a 98?

98/00/01 are all 98 spec. oddly i have never seen a 99 stamp either

pr3-1 pr3-2 pr3-3 and pr3-4 relate to the casting the head was set in. no clear evidence exists that it's date related

if you have a boreascore the pistons will be marked p73-00 on the dome

 

Good to know.

 

Awesome thanks for the info, I appreciate it.