Need help building an F22B1 from the ground up
What's up, this is my first post on here, or anywhere for that matter, anyway. I have a 1997 Acura CL2.2 with the F22B1 in it. I have no idea where to start, this is a project car and I want to get as much hp out of it as possible. I am going to take the engine out and tear it apart and start from there. I do want to build for turbo with pretty high boost. I need help from start to finish, I do not know much about engines only the basics, so I need detailed explanations please. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. This will not be a daily driver. Sorry if I posted this in the wrong forum section but I know some accord models came with the same engine so this is where I decided to start. Thank You.
If your gonna go with a high psi, than your gonna need new internals. Stock internals will fall apart with high boost. Your probably gonna wanna replace everything besides the block and maybe the crank (I don't know what they do with cranks in racecars). Definetley pistons rods will have to be replaced to handle the boost, valves springs and cam will all have to be performance. Don't expect this to be a cheap job, but if you follow through with it, it will definetley pay off
bisimoto.com
one stop shop for all ur engine internals!!
seriously thou, if ur going to build a turbo B1 ur going to need slightly oversized pistons (ceramic coated), rods, valvetrain, camshaft, valves, valvesprings and retainers, cam gear, bigger injectors, intake manifold, intercooler, piping, turbo, AF gauge, boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, blow off valve, wastegate, s300, hi pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust.
this is what comes to mind since this is what i have in my B1
my advise is read up on turbo builds and when u think u have it all down, read it again. there are also alot of things to consider, hp goal and how deep ur pockets are. also do u plan on doing all the work or a mechanic is doing the work for you. you are also going to need a tuner once everything is in there.
i think my build ran me around 5-6K. i didnt go out and buy a kit cause they all come with some part or another that is not of great quality and u will eventually swap it out for the one u really want. i pieced it together and took me a total of about 3yrs to get everything (yeah very slow). at times money was tight so i held back from buying parts but once i had everything i needed to put cash aside for motor/head work and tuning.
hope this helps and doesnt discourage u from building it up!!
one stop shop for all ur engine internals!!
seriously thou, if ur going to build a turbo B1 ur going to need slightly oversized pistons (ceramic coated), rods, valvetrain, camshaft, valves, valvesprings and retainers, cam gear, bigger injectors, intake manifold, intercooler, piping, turbo, AF gauge, boost gauge, oil pressure gauge, blow off valve, wastegate, s300, hi pressure fuel pump, 3 inch exhaust.
this is what comes to mind since this is what i have in my B1
my advise is read up on turbo builds and when u think u have it all down, read it again. there are also alot of things to consider, hp goal and how deep ur pockets are. also do u plan on doing all the work or a mechanic is doing the work for you. you are also going to need a tuner once everything is in there.
i think my build ran me around 5-6K. i didnt go out and buy a kit cause they all come with some part or another that is not of great quality and u will eventually swap it out for the one u really want. i pieced it together and took me a total of about 3yrs to get everything (yeah very slow). at times money was tight so i held back from buying parts but once i had everything i needed to put cash aside for motor/head work and tuning.
hope this helps and doesnt discourage u from building it up!!
This really helps a lot! When you say oversized pistons that means I'll need to get it bored right? Other than all the internal parts what kind if machine work will I have to get done? Money isn't really an issue for me right now. As for hp, I would really like to see low mid 11s to low 12s in the 1/4.
I just got finished building my bottom end a little over a year ago. I went through bisimoto and got all my internals. I went with arias 9:1 pistons, his forged rods, with upgraded wrist pins. ( max duty ) and I sent the block out to Dan Benson and got it sleeved. Your definitely gonna spend some change but it'll b done right. I'm in the process right now of building my head. I've been through it all with these motors as I'm sure there are other individuals that have been. But if you have any questions feel free to ask. We'll try to help you out the best we can.
Something else you might want to look into is deciding whether or not you want to stick with the vtec head or not. Also like t70accord said if you are going all out like you plan you definitely want to resleeve your block if you are going "high boost." What kind of power gains are you looking for? Thats the real question. For instance small turbo=quicker spool but not very effective top end not a whole lot of power and vice versa bigger turbo=takes a bit to spool but big gains will be made. So help me out here guys but heres how I outlined mine and how you should plan out yours:
Bottom end:
Walls? Sleeve/Block Guard/Stock
Bore? Y or N (research other builds)
Rod and Pistons? What options do you have?
Bearings? ACL, King, etc.
Crank? Polish and balance/knife edge
Would recommend new water and and replacing all seals
Head:
Cam and Cam Gear Upgrade options?
Springs and Valves are something you may want to look in to depending on your or if you upgrade your CAM.
I would recommend an OEM HG (Head Gasket) when you cross that bridge
Head options B1/B2/A1/A4/A6 and I may regret mentioning the H22 or H23 (its been done)
IM (Intake Manifold) options? not many options but some good ones.
Port and Polish? Y or N
Be sure and get whatever head you choose to a shop and inspected
Fuel rails?
Injectors?
Cast iron turbo manifold or Steel?
ARP Head studs are a must!!!
Most importantly be patient, learn to walk away every once in a while. Use the laws of physics to you advantage (leverage) when breaking bolts. Careful not to strip bolts especially head studs when disassembling. Oh 9 times out of 10 at some point in this thread know that you will be criticized so be ware. But RESEARCH, RESEARCH, ANNNNND RESEARCH!!! Theres alot of great people on here willing to help and some that will almost teach/force you to go out and learn some things the hard way, which is not always a bad thing. Good Luck my friend don't expect this to happen overnight!
Bottom end:
Walls? Sleeve/Block Guard/Stock
Bore? Y or N (research other builds)
Rod and Pistons? What options do you have?
Bearings? ACL, King, etc.
Crank? Polish and balance/knife edge
Would recommend new water and and replacing all seals
Head:
Cam and Cam Gear Upgrade options?
Springs and Valves are something you may want to look in to depending on your or if you upgrade your CAM.
I would recommend an OEM HG (Head Gasket) when you cross that bridge
Head options B1/B2/A1/A4/A6 and I may regret mentioning the H22 or H23 (its been done)
IM (Intake Manifold) options? not many options but some good ones.
Port and Polish? Y or N
Be sure and get whatever head you choose to a shop and inspected
Fuel rails?
Injectors?
Cast iron turbo manifold or Steel?
ARP Head studs are a must!!!
Most importantly be patient, learn to walk away every once in a while. Use the laws of physics to you advantage (leverage) when breaking bolts. Careful not to strip bolts especially head studs when disassembling. Oh 9 times out of 10 at some point in this thread know that you will be criticized so be ware. But RESEARCH, RESEARCH, ANNNNND RESEARCH!!! Theres alot of great people on here willing to help and some that will almost teach/force you to go out and learn some things the hard way, which is not always a bad thing. Good Luck my friend don't expect this to happen overnight!
Last edited by 5th Gen JB; Jan 2, 2014 at 07:03 AM.
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The first thing you need to realize, is boost means absolutely freaking nothing. NOTHING. 10PSI on turbo A could make 500hp while 10PSI on turbo B could make 5hp. You need a power goal, not a PSI goal, because it makes you sound like an utter idiot. You really need to get a factory service manual so you have a database for all of the specifications for your motor, then you need to start doing research on similar builds because its been done a million times and no one will spoon feed you. Generally motor "beefing up" is needed for any high horsepower motor, pistons, rods, cams, upper stuff. As previously mentioned, Bisimoto is basically the place to be for our motors, so hit them up.
I am looking to get no less than 300hp out of this engine. Also, no where in the original post did I mention going into this with the intention of only high boost. If boost does "absolutely freakin nothing" then why do turbo'd cars exist or why do they go over like 5psi. I didn't post this thread as my sole means of information on this build. This was posted as an aid in the research I am doing, I do not mind criticism
as long as it is constructive and insightful. I was also wondering what you people thought of switching out the head with the h23, is it really worth all the hassle?
as long as it is constructive and insightful. I was also wondering what you people thought of switching out the head with the h23, is it really worth all the hassle?
What he meant was you can't base your build on a pressure amount. You have to base it on the size of the turbines in the turbo that you are using. Not the PSI that the system is set at.
If you are going boost the F22B1 head will be more than enough to hit your 300+whp goal. No need for a DOHC swap, only reason to do it would be just to say that you did it????? if you were thinking of staying N/A it might be worth while.
Biggest upgrades to an F22B1 head is a cam upgrade and using an F23 intake manifold and a decent exhaust. Where you are going boost the manifold and turbo itself should be your only choke point. Everything after that should be as free flowing as possible. 2.5" at the least.
As far as the block goes these engines are good in OEM form for up to 300whp as long as the internals are in good condition. The piston ring lands are suspect in a lot of these older engines. They were not built for boost. So a good aftermarket forged piston is probably a safe bet. Rods and cranks not so much of a big deal. However there are a few retailers that have piston & rod package deals that usually work the very best.
Replacing all the gaskets, seals and bearings is an obvious statement. What bearing clearances you choose should be based on your engines power and RPM ranges. All things to research as you go along.
If you are going boost the F22B1 head will be more than enough to hit your 300+whp goal. No need for a DOHC swap, only reason to do it would be just to say that you did it????? if you were thinking of staying N/A it might be worth while.
Biggest upgrades to an F22B1 head is a cam upgrade and using an F23 intake manifold and a decent exhaust. Where you are going boost the manifold and turbo itself should be your only choke point. Everything after that should be as free flowing as possible. 2.5" at the least.
As far as the block goes these engines are good in OEM form for up to 300whp as long as the internals are in good condition. The piston ring lands are suspect in a lot of these older engines. They were not built for boost. So a good aftermarket forged piston is probably a safe bet. Rods and cranks not so much of a big deal. However there are a few retailers that have piston & rod package deals that usually work the very best.
Replacing all the gaskets, seals and bearings is an obvious statement. What bearing clearances you choose should be based on your engines power and RPM ranges. All things to research as you go along.
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