My friend has a 96 LX sedan and the front passenger's power window will go up but not down.. You can hear a barely audible click from the motor when you push the switch to go up--but it won't do anything when you want it to go down.

I've already taken the door panel off and jumped the motor directly and it does go up and down when directly jumped off of the battery. This is also how I figured out that both switches will make the window return upward. I have also swapped the passenger and driver's door master switches out with different junkyard ones in an attempt to isolate the problem to no avail.

The rear passenger window also randomly stops working and comes back like nothing happened. I believe this might have something to do with the front one as well.

Is there anybody that can guide me in the right direction to troubleshoot this? I believe it's probably just an open connection on a single wire and I'm probably gonna pull the fuse box out and go from there.

I'd really like to get a second opinion before I rip her car apart for several hours chasing ghosts.

 

I would like to say that the junkyard switches are almost always removed from cars that have open doors, broken glass and otherwise exsposed to the elements. If you can operate the windows with direct jumper wires the switches alone are your issue. Power is there and seems to come and go, this is deteriorated contacts that have been corrupted by water deep within the switch. Get a new switch/ switches and you will be fine.

 

Id say master window switch

 

check to make sure the window didnt get pushed out of the rubber on the side
same thing was happening to mine the glass was outside of the rubber on the b pillar, making it bind up

 

The window tracks are fine, I made sure to inspect them. Both work and move fine when jumped in whichever direction desired.

The rear passenger intermittently refuses to work entirely, while the front just refuses to open regardless.

Is it still possible for the master switch to be at fault if using a second one produced the same exact results as before with no change? It seems kind of unlucky for the same results to be produced. I do appreciate the input though, thanks everyone.

Is there a surefire way to test the power to the switch before I commit to buying a new master one entirely?

 

Of course their is. Assuming you have a voltmeter, give me a minute to pull up my FSM and tell you which wires to probe.

 

I really appreciate it. She's coming over on Wednesday so I can have a round 2 with the windows, and with that info I can finish them once and for all.

 

 

You are a lifesaver! Thank you. I am saving this and will report back with the issue in a few days when I isolate it.

 

There's a connector in the driver's door jam. Check for broken wires there or on the passenger side.