So here's the parts that I have...

- 5 Spd Transmission
- ACT 6 Puck Clutch, Pressure Plate and Flywheel
- Pedals, Shift Linkage, Shifter and ****
- Master Cylinder, Slave Cylinder, Clutch Lines
- Half Shaft, T Bracket, Manual Transmission Mount
- Manual Starter and P75 ECU
- 5 Spd Center Console, Shift Boot and 5 Spd Cluster

I did not change axles because when I looked for the part at the parts store they said that for both the Manual and Auto models the part number was the same, so do I need to change them or not..? Also someone mentioned that I needed a pigtail for the Wiring Harness since I'm changing from Auto to Manual, is this true and if so where can I get it?

If I'm missing anything else I would really appreciate the help.. My Auto trans literally gave out on me the same night I picked up all these parts for my swap and I plan to go ahead w/ the swap next weekend

 

You'll need the manual pocket mount welded to the passenger's side frame rail unless you buy an aftermarket auto to manual swap mount.

The axle are the same.

Throttle cables are different if you're using all 3 pedals from the donor car. You can keep the automatic gas pedal and throttle cable, but it will feel a bit weird since it's spring loaded at the end for passing gear.

You'll need to rewire the starting circuit and backup lights. Integra should be very similar to this for the starting circuit.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/5th-gen-civic-auto-manual-starting-circuit-right-way-2348557/

 

I've got just a couple of questions left(hopefully..) we have the automatic transmission off the car and we're putting the manual flywheel onto the engine.. When I took off the automatic flywheel there was a spacer between the bolts and the flywheel, do I need to use this plate on the manual flyweel?? All of the pictures I find online look like the manual flywheel does NOT use this spacer plate but I just want to make sure!!

Also we're tackling the clutch lines next and I wanted to ask if it would be more convenient to just run braided steel clutch lines from the pedal/master cylinder/slave cylinder? I'm scared to death we're going to bend the hell out of the hardlines putting them in since we did NOT pull the engine out.. I believe that was everything, I would really appreciate any advice!

Thanks!!

 

Throw the spacer away, it goes with the automatic flexplate. Also I'm assuming you already knew this, but the flywheel bolts are considerably longer than the automatic flexplate bolts, so make sure you have the correct flywheel bolts.

I always just reused the hardlines. I did one of those swaps with the engine in the car, and another one without. You really don't need to do very much bending. Separate the lines at the coupler in the middle before you install them though. From the coupler to the transmission is quite easy, the first part will be more of a pain in the ***, but it's still not that bad.

 

Okay that makes sense, and yes I know the Manual Bolts are different sizes a buddy educated me on how he destroyed his Transmission by using the Automatic Flywheel Bolts

Thanks for the help so far, will update if we run into any more snags

 

Alright 2 more questions and I should have this thing finished up.. Now there are 2 parts I do NOT have and I wanted to make sure I was right on this..

Part #9 Engine Stiffner


Part #16 (NOT FOUND IN PARTS LIST..) I believe it's the front torque mount?

 

9 is right. 16 isn't, that's the torque mount bracket for an automatic. You want number 15.

 

So we finished the swap last night and after working out a couple of kinks we were able to get the car started up(awesome!) now the bad part...get popcorn

- Engine is running like a champ, though we already knew that it would
- Clutch Pedal is springing back but soft, does not seem to actually disengage the clutch
- Bumped the ignition w/ the car in 1st and both axles were rotating
- Missing cap for vac line on the top of the Transmission(for the Clutch Pedal I think?)

While checking things out we noticed a fluid leak, shut the car down and slid under to investigate.. From what I can tell there is a dime size hole on the bottom of the Trans where a gear blew through it....

Tears ensued :
Here's my question, what could cause the Clutch Pedal to be soft? We bled it for air, and though it is springing back it's not disengaging the clutch? I'm assuming master/slave cylinder though not sure..

Also does anyone have a detailed guide for wiring up the inside for auto -to- manual swap, the ones I found must be old and the pictures no longer show..

 

Either all the air isn't bled yet, the master and/or slave cylinder is bad or the clutch release fork isn't seated on the ball stud in the bell housing.

As far as the trans goes, that sucks. Take it apart, if you're lucky the transmission got dropped on the floor or something and there's no internal damage. If you're not so lucky something did let go inside.