I'm in the beginning of planning my build and I've done some research but the search isn't always reliable so I figured I could ask a couple questions so here goes:

The engine I'm building is a 84mm GSR bottom with a b16 head. I am about to order the Darton MID Sleeves and have them installed locally. The machine shop said for the install, bore, deck and hone it would cost me $800. Is this a fair price? I haven't had any major machine work done before so I was curious.

The power goal for the engine is 700-750whp so I'm debating on rod choices. I don't think I want to spent the money for Carrillos if I don't have to, and it seems many people are having good luck with the Manley Turbo Tuff rods so I think I may go that route. Should I go with the Manleys over the cheaper Eagle or Brian Crower rods with the arp 2000 rod bolts? Not trying to go cheap but any little bit helps.

Looking to go with around a 10-10.5 compression and one of our vendors sells a CP off the shelf piston at a 10.5:1 compression ratio. Is an off the shelf piston even reliable considering I'll be using 30+/- psi of boost to make the power I need? I'm open to Wiseco or any other brand available.

Your input is appreciated!

 

This sounds about right for what you're doing, but to get the best benefits of 84mm, its best to use an LS crank to make the car a true 2.0Litre. Your increase in possible torque will only increase about 20ft/lbs from 81mm, as opposed to a full 60-80ft/lbs with both additional bore and stroke for anything useable.

Carillos aren't necessary. You can use the Manley rods just fine.

I think that 750-800whp is a bit much to try and do if you're just now researching about how to do this, and the power you're attempting to create. As for an "off the shelf piston", yes, it can be done, just make sure they use thick wrist-pins and you're able to properly assemble and utilize the engine management you've chosen.

 

I used Manley turbo tuff rods and CP pistons on my last build, also was a darton mid sleeved block... I have absolutely no complaints about the products I used, quality and strength was great

I would definitely go with Manley rods, I've known people that run eagles that had them start to stretch at power levels similar to yours (lowest if I remember right was in the 500hp area) the caps would stretch/deform and pound rod bearings into nothing, not sure if it was a metallurgy problem, design problem or bolt issues... but I've never heard about a single problem with Manley rods.

Also, Manley, CP and Darton have some amazing customer service and technical people.

Also as Mac stated, make sure the wrist pins are not shelf units, people have issues with them bending at high power levels, muckman had his bend on a 550hp high compression build, as have others... so get the strongest pin possible, the added weight means nothing at those power levels and is cheap insurance

Also shelf pistons at that power level won't be optimal... a typical shelf forged piston doesn't have the necessary material thickness at the top of piston top of dome/crown to the internal bottom) for high cylinder pressures... they will make you thicker pistons without issue. Again back to muckman, he found out his pistons were more designed for NA or mild power Forced induction and had very thin tops and he had issues, so he had to order a custom piston with a thicker top

 

I actually forgot to mention that I already have a crank out of a b18b1 engine going in the motor. Glad to hear the Manleys are a good option. I'm not looking for 700whp out of the gate, but that is the eventual goal so I wanted to make sure the engine is built to handle whatever I throw at it. I've been dealing with 2jz and ls1 engines for a while so I'm just trying to see what people are using these days.

Wantboost: I actually remember Muckman talking about that, thanks for the reminder. Glad to hear from someone who has had a good experience with the companies I want to use.

 

If you want the engine to be able to handle whatever you throw at it then get the best of the best parts dont cheap out. Manley turbo tuff rods will do just fine. Are carillos better? Yes but not generally nessesary. If i build another motor it will consist of GE or Benson sleeved block, BME aluminum rods, Diamond custom pistons 12:1 comp.

 

I'm not trying to go cheap by any means, but I have a budget just like anyone else and when I can get rods for $700 instead of $1000 and still handle the power I want, I"ll go that route! 12:1 and aluminum rods sounds like a nice motor. My car will be seeing a lot of street duty so I'll stick to around 10 or 10.5:1. Run less boost to make the same power and race gas for when I want to crank it up

 

I'm debating aluminum rods as well... they are surprisingly cheap compared to a set of high end steel rods.., and they are tough. People always think you can't use them on the street but v8 guys have been doing it for decades

 

Correct aluminum rods are fine for a street driven car. The require more piston to head clearence cold but once they expand you have standard piston to head specs. They also act like a shock absorber to your bearings. They can see engine life in upwards of 50k miles