Car:
93 eg
Turbo GSR
GSR Trans
Quaife Diff
ACT HD Pressure Plate w/ 6 puck sprung


Problem:
Wet the tires, Clean and heat up the tires, then Preload... During preloading the clutch was making a god awful sound. Once the car was launched it was horrible trying to get the car to shift into 2nd, 3rd, so on. After trying this for a few passes and bleeding the slave cylinder, thinking that maybe there was air or something in the hydraulic system not letting the clutch disengage completely, things didn't get any better. No matter how long I held the clutch to the floor then slowly let it get into gear did it want to shift. Definitely not in high RPMS. Before dropping the trans and getting into all of that I was hoping to trouble shoot the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder... I thought it would be a great idea to see if others have had issues with this before, before purchasing replacement OEM or aftermarket parts.

Thanks for your input and feel free to share your current set up.
Thanks,
Rob

 

I run a similar setup (same clutch turbo gsr, gsr trans, etc) and have had problems with high rpm lockout. I have been blaming the clutch over the trans for my issues.

Two things I would ask about is what rpm are you shifting at (or trying to shift at) and what power level are u currently running?

 

Puck style clutches are really not designed to be shifting at high rpms...they tend to lock you out and cause damage to the trans, easily.

Some people get lucky I supposed...but if you want consistency at high RPM, high power shifting...you need something like a Twin or Single. Personally I like, use, promote and sell Comp Clutch...

 

16 lbs of boost near 400 hp/250 ft/lbs. I plan on shifting pretty high (9K+) it's on a GT35R

Thanks for sharing. I was wondering also if anyone has remedied this issue with CMC or SC?

Wanting to get near 600hp on race gas just not going to even think about it until the Driveline is sorted out...

When stepping up to a twin disk, what is there to lookout for or will I even be needing one?

 

If this is the case why would CC sell products really not designed for shifting at high rpm's?
They recommend puck clutches for drag and road racing where the above is a pre-requisite or given, I've had lock out issues with previous ACT clutches but to date my CC stage 5 sprung seems to be OK in comparison.

 

ive had no problems with mine and i have the same clutch. it does make a little noise sometimes, but i figure thats just my clutch getting wore down to the rivets. check the input shaft for any twisting or burrs. make sure you put a small amount of lube on the input shaft as well. the clutch needs to be able to slide smoothly to disengage from the flywheel and pressure plate properly. dont over do it tho or youll have grease all over it the first time you start it up.

also check your flywheel bolts. ive had them come loose before and cause issues with disengagement.

 

They do sell clutches designed for that, Super Singles, Twin Discs and Triples.

The puck style clutches are not designed or recommended for that purpose. Most people for some reason "expect" that but this does not mean it will work like people assume. Revs under 9k and torque ratings as stated in the product descriptions are what they are built for...street cars.

The problem is too many people rolling around in 700 HP street that think they can get away with the same old clutch!

 

Might not be the issue but the springs In the clutch might be effed up and falling out causing the noise. Every sprung clutch I had these would eventually work really loose. Only had one fall out once from it tho. This could explain the terrible noise and cause it to not dis engage

 

Thanks for the reply

This is helpful information and highlights a few things I have encountered over the years, when I was in the market for yet another clutch I spoke with CC tech team about the points you outlined, they pushed me towards the super single and eventually the twin, unfortunately, after shipping they realized they don't make a super single or twin for the cable Y1 box so I had to settle for the stage 5.
I like the idea of a super single or twin plate as most of the issues people speak of tend to disappear and in the not too distant future I will switch from a cable to hydo box so I can run a twin.

 

No problem, and yes Hydro is the way to go!

 

Swapping out the CMC today with another EG I have for parts and going to see what happens. From there i'll decide what I do. I have a Comp Clutch sitting on the seat of my Del Sol I might swap in so I can make it to the track this Sunday in Baton Rouge... Again if it's drivable with the CMC change=I'm going to the track, if not I'll probably change out the clutch with my CC, either way the next 2 months this car will see nothing but the dyno so I have a little bit to make a decision on which clutch it will get. Just curious if OEM parts outside the trans will suffice with what ever I go with... So will a CC, highest stage before jumping up to a puck style clutch hold near 600 and slipping it while preloading? Or should I just jump on the twin disk and what supporting mods will be suggested/needed..

My del sol clutch disk had the springs work their way out and that's why it's getting a replacement. My Si flywheel bolts in the past had came loose and scored a clutch I had in it. I won't know until I break this thing open though...

Thanks,
Rob

 

Well swapped the cmc, same. When going from neutral to 1st it's okay... When letting out on the clutch... No dice, horrible sounds! Throw out bearing?

 

pull the trans out and check the clutch befor you mess more stufff ok
ACT are known for locking out,but if its just doing it during normal thats not the problem. if you plan on making over 600 and taking the car to the track put a cc twin in it, the cc stage 5 unsprung will hold the power on the street but will not last at the track

 

Well I pulled the trans and the clutch disk, pressure plate and the flywheel were all gouged. The disk had chunks missing and down to the rivits. Put a stage 2 ACT for temporary purposes until I make my mind up on the twin disk or stage 5 clutch... Took it for a test run and the clutch felt as if it was releasing well... then on a good launch and a 2nd gear hit it seemed as if the when the clutch pedal was released it was still engaged some how... The revs were up still! pulled back in the shop, no full lock out from nuetral! I changed the slave cylinder Saturday and got no better. I'm curious this week to take the slave cylinder line from the CMC to the Slave and swap it out with my Del Sol's... Thinking maybe the Rubber hose is somehow flexing instead of the slave getting full throw... Is there another/better way to diagnose?

Thanks,

 

get a twin disc = problem solved

 

rebled the clutch again... works for a little while, then loses pressure. I'm ordering a new line... i'll update how it does.

 

well hate to dig this up but I felt the need to update. Del Sol is back on the road after loose spring and is still being broke in. 200 miles and seems like it'll never get to 500 or so as little as I drive it now. The EG now has a K-tuned SS hose/oem cmc and slave. They will be installed this weekend and tried out. The whole losing pressure was trippy and there weren't any leaks. Will update back if the weather holds out and I get to install this. Then onto a twin disk.

Thanks for everyones input.

 

check the firewall on the inside of the car where the cmc is bolted/clutch pedal area for leaks/wetness. also, did you check and or replace the throw out bearing?

 

I did, 1st thing I did. Plumbed things up after work last night. Should have everything bolted up this evening...

Thanks!

 

Twin disc FTW

 

Why are you punishing yourself with all this time wasting? Get the twin and be done.