I have a 00 Accord EX

I need to know how to rewire 3 wire IAVC to 2 wire

My IAVC is Black/Blue-Yellow/Black-Black. Black/Blue goes to ECU for knowledge that it is IAVC Yellow/Black is power that I know and Black is ground

Not sure if its the same as Civic as ff-squad has

 

The OBD1 ECU A9 is the (+) signal from the ECU. Drop the BLK/YEL wire and use the other two. Hook the BLK/BLU wire to pin A9 on the ECU and the BLK wire to the main ground (main relay ground is Pin A23).

 

thanks so much Ghost

 

car is 00 accord obd1 coversion

before I say everything works, well i doesn't so now there's a high pitch noise coming from Throttle Body. What I'm thinking is possible leak sprayed and not sure if leak, another thing is vacuum lines check tomorrow.

another problem is idle it isn't fluctuating or anything just high about 2k but warms down

 

High idle is usually a sign of a vacuum leak, however....that being said, the F23 idle air system uses an air rotary valve instead of an IACV & FITV. It incorporates both of the valves into one. Now that you are only running an IACV you will have to make sure that the Tune/Map on your P28 has the IACV set up correctly.

So are you seeing the idle going down as the engine warms up? If so that is how the IACV ECT compensation has been set up then. You can change those settings with tuning software. You can make it so that it idles at (X)rpm @ (X)engine coolant temperature.

Where/Who set up your basemap for your P28?

 

Ghost I have an H23a Vtec.

Yes the idle goes down I didn't run it too long, but went down to at least 1250. gotcha

BigBlue he's also been helping me with my problems to this engine.

 

Yeah H23V, I knew that...forgot! 1250rpm is still a wee bit high. After you check for leaks you should try adjusting the base idle now that you converted to the 2 wire IACV. It might need a slight adjustment is all.

 

How would I go about setting base idle

 

Idle is set at 800, with the whistling and high idle I think it is a vac leak, you can try to play with idle at the screw in the TB, screw it in a bit and see if it will drop.

 

negative no screw on throttle body I thought I told you. so now so I get a throttle body with screw


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IIRC with the P28 ECU you need to short the SCS connector, This will put the car in base timing and base idle. Then start the car and run it up to operating temperature. Shut the car off and unplug the IACV. Start the car and adjust the idle set screw on the face of the throttle body until your tachometer reads 550 ±50 rpm. Shut the car off plug the IACV back in and start your car again. With no load the idle should be in the 700 ±50 rpm range. With electrical load (headlights on low, AC/ heater fan on Hi) The idle rpm should be 790 ±50 rpm.

Or you can adjust it to suit whatever RPM you would like to have your engine idle at....





Can you post up a picture of your throttle body? Sometimes they have the screw covered with a gray epoxy type substance. Mine was!

 

yea in a bit when I get home. the TB has a space for it but not threaded and the metal is over hole, but looks like that's how it was made


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That is definitely plugged. Can you tell if there there are 2 small holes inside the throttle body. One in front of and the other behind the throttle plate at the top?

Have you ever adjusted the throttle stop screw on the cable side of the throttle body? It's hard to see in this picture, but it kind of looks like the throttle plate is open slightly more than usual.

 

inside TB is two holes but the intake plenum I got has only one that runs through b/c I replaced the pcb intake with a p13.

No I haven't adjusted the throttle screw

 

So I fixed the high pitch air was leaking from TB but still this

 

Can you hook up a scan tool, laptop or jump the SCS connector in order to read what that flashing CEL is for. Most times a flashing CEL is a misfire indicator. but that seems a bit slow for that.


Can you shoot a video of from the engine bay side of things?

 

sure can when I get home the cel is just vtec pressure switch and now I have cyp code which I got when I hooked the iavc wires up the way you told me, but then I put them to blk/yellow to green for postive and blk/blue to black for negative.

when I did it the way I did it the iavc code didn't pop up but then I switched it back to how you said just b/c I thought I had the wires mixed up and the cyp code popped up then went back to my way and still throwing code

hope I didn't confuse you


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Oh shyte boss. Sorry I must have been sleeping on that one. You need the BLK/YEL (12v switched) and run BLK/BLU to A9 (ground) on the ECU for the 2 wire IACV..... Not sure why the CYP code would come up though.....

 

I just tried to start it, there was a loud clunk then died Idk what I did checked all fuses and there good.

 

What would cause CYP code?

 

The cyp sensor is inside the distributor. So it could be as simple as some loose wiring to the distributor. Or it could be the sensor itself.

 

damn Well how I had it wired worked fine with obd2b ecu but obd1 is having problems.

I thought it was obd1 distributor but now idk so its marked TD-94U and how I have it wired as followed

Wire colors:
Black/Yellow - Black/Yellow
Black - Black
Blue - Blue
Green - Orange/Blue
Red - White/Blue
White - White
Yellow/Green - Yellow/Green
Yellow - Orange

 

So I just put in a 2 wire iacv in my 01 accord lx coupe manual plugged my p28 up and now when I give it gas the motor act like it wants to shut off any advice

 

Is the check engine light coming on?

Why are you using a P28?

Is it tuned and if so, are you able to log data and see what the ECU is doing when the engine wants to shut off?