Turbo flange bolts falling WTF
hey what are you guys using to to connect your turbos to the manifold..im tired of mines backing out and the turbo damn near falling off..Ive tried different methods but havent been successful with anything thanks
I think spoolin or go autoworks has copper lock nuts that work quite well..
If those dont work, your next step is Stage 8 locking fasteners
If those dont work, your next step is Stage 8 locking fasteners
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Either:
ARP 3/8"-16 stainless bolts with red loctite.
or
High-strength studs and nuts with red loctite.
I am currently running Full-race studs and nuts on my setup with no loctite, I even have anti-seize on the section of threads that are in the manifold flange.
no issues or leaks.
best advice is to check the bolts and/or studs after 3-4 heat cycles and re-torque if necessary.
ARP 3/8"-16 stainless bolts with red loctite.
or
High-strength studs and nuts with red loctite.
I am currently running Full-race studs and nuts on my setup with no loctite, I even have anti-seize on the section of threads that are in the manifold flange.
no issues or leaks.
best advice is to check the bolts and/or studs after 3-4 heat cycles and re-torque if necessary.
I hate to say it, but the full-race studs sucks heat and vibration from solid mount snapped mines I guess, I am currently using ARP exhaust studs.
I've always wanted to try this on manifold/turbo bolts. I've done this on roller coaster brake systems with special tools but I can be done with basic pair of pliers. You'll find videos on youtube on how to do this.
Not sure if the heat will anneal the safety wire though.


Whatever you decide to do, buy high grade made-in-the-usa hardware.
Not sure if the heat will anneal the safety wire though.

Whatever you decide to do, buy high grade made-in-the-usa hardware.
Always had a lot of trouble with my bolts walking out over time as well. Never used lock washers though. Crappy ebay manifold inhibited my ability to fit much in there. I used to just check the bolts once a week since I was always fiddlin' around with somethin anyway.
Buy good parts!
Buy good parts!
ATP studs and locknuts. A lock washer isn't going to do anything and neither is loctite. The heat just relaxes them. You would need a star washer and proper nuts if you were going to try that route and the nuts are usually rather large.
IF it works with lock washers and loctite it would have worked without them.
IF it works with lock washers and loctite it would have worked without them.
I've always wanted to try this on manifold/turbo bolts. I've done this on roller coaster brake systems with special tools but I can be done with basic pair of pliers. You'll find videos on youtube on how to do this.
Not sure if the heat will anneal the safety wire though.


Whatever you decide to do, buy high grade made-in-the-usa hardware.
Not sure if the heat will anneal the safety wire though.

Whatever you decide to do, buy high grade made-in-the-usa hardware.
ATP studs and locknuts. A lock washer isn't going to do anything and neither is loctite. The heat just relaxes them. You would need a star washer and proper nuts if you were going to try that route and the nuts are usually rather large.
IF it works with lock washers and loctite it would have worked without them.
IF it works with lock washers and loctite it would have worked without them.
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