i have a 95 civic with a fully built b16. Car still has ac and its turboed. It got an inline pro manifold setup. I just put a pwr radiator and fal fan on it. After I got it all together and running today I noticed the ect at ldle would stay at 207. It was about 90 outside. The temp gauge on the cluster is in the normal spot maybe a little bit lower. Whats a normal idle temp and crusing temp for hot weather. There still maybe some air in the coolent too. I bleed it the best I could.

 

was the fan cycling on/off properly? did you drive it? if so, what ect temps did you see?

for reference, my stock fan switch cycles on at 199*

 

I set my fan in ectune to come on at like 175 so it never turned off. When I drove it around the block it dropped down to about 200

 

207 is pretty close to the gauge needle moving up again. if i remember correctly the needle starts to move from the normal spot around 212 to 215.

what are your oil temps? and iat?

might want to try out some other heat decreasing strategies like heatwrapping or coating manifold/dp. maybe space the hood out and fan shroud.

my fan comes on at 170 and i have a a few 1/8 inch holes in my oem tsat to increase coolant flow. on a 90 degree day ill idle in the mid 190's ect. driving around at 60mph or so and under my coolant is mid to low 190s but if i get on the highway forget it above 65 or so ill get up toward 210+ coolant and 220-230 oil which i dont like

 

My fan does have a shroud. Idk bout my oil temps. My iats were like 110

 

I would not trip about 207. The thermostat does not open until 190.

 

yeah and 110 iat isnt bad. if it was like 150 iat then id suspect a heatsoak event occuring under your hood.


you could also mess with your water/antifreeze mix ratio and or try water wetter. cheap things that might yield some small results but overall it dont sound like theres anything out of the ordinary going on

 

Are you certain you have all air out of the coolant? Mine never gets over 200. Cruising im at 182-185. After a hard pull it maybe sees 188....In traffic i can see it get close too 200. On this build ive never seen it get over 202 once. Ever since i changed to a koyo 52mm halfsize and i use the slim fan that came with my peak boost kit....I also have my fan set to 182 but i have it turn off over 35mph....Since at that point natrual airflow would be more benefical. i have no shroud either.
Get a coolant bleed kit that hooks up the funnel to the radiator. Let the car run and coolant rise up the funnel. Squueze the hoses ect and youll get it all out. Make sure to let it run till the thermostat opens. Use OEM honda thermostat. it opens at 185F

 

the car should not be getting to 207 if the fan is set that low. sounds like there is still air in the system. increase the fan temp to stock (200) while bleeding and make sure it cycles on/off a few times to ensure all the air is out. make sure the heat is on while bleeding

also, you should set the fan to something higher than 175 permanently too. operating temp is 176 and this is where the thermostat begins to open. you have the fan coming on prior to operating temp. 185-190 would be a better fan trigger point

 

Sounds like air bound. At idle should hold lower with fans running

 

I just drove it like 10 miles in about 85degree weather. The highest the temp got while was driving was 194. It went up to like 196 once I stopped moving. I'll prolly swap the tstat just because its a few years old and it set awhile.

 

So I just drove home from work. About 30 mins in 90+ degree weather. The highest the ects got was 202 once at a redlight. But when I was moving they stayed around 194-196.... The highest the iats got was like 137 at a redlight. I also noticed the car wants to die alot more when I push the clutch in...

 

idle set screw on the throttlebody isnt properly adjusted more than likely. or its pulling alot fo timing out with the higher intake temps.

 

Sounds like "Topher" is scratching his head a lot.

 

This one car has been a headace since it was built. Motors been out 3 times and 3 different turbo setups. The car has always had an issue with wanting to die when I press the clutch coming to a stop. Car doesnt seem to be pulling timing.

 

have you tried Adding 2-4 degrees of timing maybe even more to 1000rpm - 0 rpm on ignition table first 2 columns. this worked well for my situation.

 

I will try that later on. Thanks for the advice.

 

also, check the IACV duty cylce.

did you try rebleeding the system to see if that helped with temps?

 

I think I got the dieing when I press the clutch in problem fixed.

 

What did you end up doing to fix it?