Hi l want help What tools do I need to work with honda

 

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l Thinking to take innovat Lm1 wideband and Ostrich 2.0 and what need to tune my obd1

 

A dyno

 

This was my first thought too, but I refrained from the urge to flame

 

AHHHHHHHH HAAHHAHAH!

 

i curently have a 93 honda civic ex with a D16Z6 motor (first honda, and first project) it has a aftermarket air intake currently added onto it with a bundle of other parts im looking to find an air charge temp. sesonor and the connector/wires for it to install in the air intake but after looking at a dozen or more websites and roaming the junkyards havent come acrossed anything. any help or tips on it greatly appreciated. ive got the engine light on and seems like its idling kinda funny. at times when im sitting at a light the engine just stops like it isnt taking in any air and i have to restart it. at times the engine light does go off but when im stopped and try to accelerate it takes a minute or two to respond and even then is a little sluggish. i have a buddy who has put together a few hondas and works with a shop and says its the air charge temp sensor (secondary air sensor in the air intake) and ive been lookin for it but havent been able to come across it or the wires for it (which i need). any ideas on where to definately get them or any tips would be helpfull


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lol wtf this thread is a NOOB magnet

 

OP first of all what do you know about honda

to me you sound like someone that shouldnt touch the car and just take it to a shop or dyno.
theres already too many noobs destroying good hondas and turning them into garbage and then trying to get rid of them on craigslist

to tune your car yourself first of you need to know what you doin
and if you dont know what tools you need then you DONT know what you doin

you need a wideband
chipped ecu such as (crome, neptune or hondata )
laptop
with crome you also need datalogger and real time programmes like ostrich
a car that has no issues
egr sensor would also help

 

what is the best lm1 or lm2

 

can I find any information about "how to tune ignition using dyno" ?

 

wow

 

Just when I didn't think H-T could get any worse! Today takes the cake!

 

OMG!!!!!!

 

Sorry man but u gotta read more.

 

No need to make fun of.

I'm not asking for a teacher online.
Someone can 'point' a book or a website, that was what I expected actually.

I adjusted the AFR via wideband on the street on a GSR basemap. The ignition is based on also GSR and retarded 1 degree per psi just to make sure there's no problem. I see there's no problem afer I check the plugs. At least no detonation.

I have a knock sensor on the block and a knock gauge, however I can't trust that for the moment. Headphone style knock listening is needed. My friend has one with its knock sensor, and I'll use it, however, I only use it on the street and it's not easy.

The ecu is P28 with neptune.

That's where I am. There's only one dyno in my city and I want to rent it. However, I need to know more about dyno tuning.

So, is there any good information on using the dyno for tuning ? Just to read ?

Anyway..

 

thats more like it. why not include your last post in the original that way you dont look like a complete noob.

more info you give better we can help

 

i think an EGR would be more help to you than a knock sensor

why not have the tuner dyno tune it first so you can watch what he does, you will have better idea

 

I do believe you mean EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) .

Alperx, There are several ways of tuning ignition depending on street, and dyno type. I understand you are familiar with knock ears and reading plugs which is the way of the street tuning.

Coming down to the Dyno it depends on type Inertia or Steady State. I currently use a Inertia dyno which isnt really well for part throttle tuning. I still read plugs on it but wot you can watch the tq curve either go up or down. make a run look at graph, add 2 degrees then overlap. if there is no gain in say 4k rpm then take 2 degrees back out. if you gain at 5k rpm up to 9k add another 2 degrees, rinse repeat.

Steady state is ideal for speed density cars (Map Sensor), it can hold you in a certain cell and you can dial in your part throttle while looking at its tq management controls you can add timing until you see a peak in number then back off slightly. Currently been renting a Dyno Dynamics and the part throttle ignition maps have been solid.

Hope this helps you

 

*cough yep that one. been hangin around d15z1 too much

 

Thanks K20EF8Dx. This is the kinda info I need. Is there any books on stuff like that ?

 

Ben strader wrote a good book he is the owner of EFI University (www.EFI101.com) there are a few others on amazon. I have read a few but its informative to start off slow and advance yourself and take in criticism from others.